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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1990 RRC with ABS. I had to disconnect the break lines and replace both front calipers. Prior to doing so, the breaks actually were pretty good. I only replaced the calipers due to one was leaking. Anyways now i have both calipers on and i can not get the breaks to pump up. There are no signs of leaking, just can get them to pump up with any pressure. I got a ton of air out of the lines, im looking for any thoughts anyone may have.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Did you follow the bleed procedures for both high and low pressure bleeding, ie, bleeding the 4 side nipples in order with system depressurized, then normal bleed of 2 top nipples with ingnition on pumping pedal, then the 4 in order again with ignition on?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response. I followed procedures i located on rover net. It showed the order of how to bleed and when to have the key on, pedal down and so on. I will admit that i was worried about the pump running alot so i, had my wife shut off the ignition now and then. Seems like i have read so many cautions on that pump and i dont have the 1100.00 replace it so i was being very cautious with it running alot. What do you think, bleed again? I think the brake lines were off for a full day, i let all the fluid run out since it was old and very nasty. Ideas of what else to check? At this point im game for any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Reading what you said again, you may have different procedures than what i received. Do you have the info handy to forward to me?
 

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Would suggest you google 'Green Oval rave' and download the RAVE workshop manual. The procedure is fairly long-winded, and has to be followed to the letter.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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You turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine. The pump needs to run to pump the brake fluid through the system. I had to pump 3 pints of brake fluid through to get all the air out. The pump will run longer if there is air in the system.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Turn the key off.

Pump brake pedal 30 times, wait 2 minutes.

Take the reservoir cap off and pump pedal 5 times slowly waiting 1 minute between pumps. repeat until no air bubble come up in reservoir.

Bleed the 4 lower bleeds on the fronts by open, press pedal, close, release pedal, in order driver outside, passenger outside, passenger inside, driver inside.

Bleed ABS pump without pumping pedal, and use rag to catch fluid because any type of hose/catch can will be higher than reservoir.

Turn key to on, but don't start engine to turn pump on.

Bleed Accumulator, pump on, open, pedal down, close, pump off, open pump on, close, pump off until no air bubbles. Only let pump run for about 4-5 seconds at a time.

Bleed master cylinder like Accumulator (two nipples)

Bleed top bleeds on all four calipers with pump on. open, pedal down, close, pedal up. Turn off pump.

Turn on pump. If pump runs longer than 45 seconds, start over.

Re-Bleed lower front caliper nipples in order with pump on and only using lower 2/3 of pedal travel.
 

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The linked instructions are not what is in the RAVE and does not include the ABS Pump, Accumulator, or Master Cylinder.
 

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Richard is correct the link did not address the ABS Pump, Accumulator, or Master Cylinder. After getting home and reviewing the shop manual for your year he is pretty much spot on with his instructions. I will try and copy to PDF the pages from the manual and email them to you when I get back to work tomorrow. The 1990 instructions differ little from what Richard has told you to do. Just make sure that the reservoir is at max before you begin the process.

I hope the earlier link provided will help with the caliper part in identifing the bleed screw locations.

Parker
1993 LWB Plymouth Blue
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome thanks for all the input, i will give it a shot this weekend. I will get back to you on the results.
 
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