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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a 2000 reg 2.5 DHSE Range Rover, which has just failed it's MOT. I've been advised that the garage think I need to replace the ABS, but are getting a 2nd opinion in case this is cost prohibitive. I have no idea what they mean, nor do I know if I can run the car without ABS.

I am trying to learn about this car as much as I can, I love it and want it to live forever, so any 'beginners guides' anyone can direct me to would be greatly appreciated.

Is my car knackered?

Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Did they give you any indication why they need to replace the ABS, or which particular bit? Follow the stickies at the top of the forum to grab the RAVE CD (oontz oontz oontz oontz, no sadly not) and get reading.
 

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Abs system has quite a few components.. what are the syntoms?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
They originally thought it would be the brake servo (they told me), but when they started going further to identify the fault, they concluded the ABS was faulty. They're not sure which part though. I'm still waiting on more information.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi, thanks for the questions....

Basically, the brakes are functioning normally, but when I depress the pedal, it creaks and ticks back into position after releasing it. Sometimes it also resists when I tried to depress it, additional pressure then caused it to depress normally. The car always stopped as/when required, but occasionally this was a tad abrupt.

When I put it into the garage, the rear brake pipe failed the MOT and they also thought the brake servo was faulty and were investigating this when they decided it was the ABS that was the problem. But they're not sure what element of the ABS and have apparently been on the phone to Landrover. I'm still waiting to find out more.

They did experiment with disconnecting the ABS and the brakes apparently behaved better (their words), but they said something about it skidding too, so I'm guessing at speed the ABS becomes rather necessary!

That's as much as I know, I think, but do ask more questions, my ignorance means I don't know what people might need to know.

Thanks
 

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ECU (the system brain)
Does the pressure pump works every time u press the pedal or every few times?
The ABS system is quite complex but most of the time the solution is very simple. i dont know witch garage u r using, but mind you that it can and will go very expensive if they don´t know what they are doing/ it´s a Landrover dealer.
I would:

1 - take it to an independent that works on landrovers

2 - start by the simple stuff. (flush the brake fluid with new one and bleed by the book / check the accumulator by making note of many times u use the pedal before the pump works / connect it to a diagnostics for ABS faults)

The ECU can be had for a few £ on a breaker with guaranty. the accumulator cost new 85£ from island4x4. etc, etc..

The ABS system doesn´t have a servo, it´s an electric pump that builds pressure, into the accumulator, for ABS and pedal action.

keep posting.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the pedal is creaking and sticking, is it actually free to move? Check the linkage isn't all gunged up.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Maybe have a read of my thread and see if any of the noted symptoms match. Please read all P38 owners up to mid 1999(brake modulators) I'll bring it forward. Russell.
 

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To follow up, just spoken to the Garage and they think it's the CCU?
It might be a good idea to get a second opinion from someone who has experience with the P38a's ABS system. It is a complex system, and your posts so far about 'brake servo' and 'CCU' indicate to me the garage are in over their heads. The P38a does not have a brake servo as such, it has a hydraulic pump providing pressure to the ABS modulator, this modulator also controls brake assist and is indeed very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all for your advice. My complication is that I'm in the Scottish islands, so getting to another garage with P38 knowledge is maybe not achievable, although I could try getting to Glasgow. I do have a friend with some experience locally, so I could try with him & see if we get anywhere. He's also more likely to know how to do all the testing jobs that I can try myself & show me how to do them.

If I get anymore detail I'll post again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You have the later model DSE which is the same year as mine.
It has 4 wheel traction control and uses the later modulator and ECU. You need the correct parts if you need to replace them. The correct ECU is the black coloured Wabco unit SRD100501. They are not cheap new.

You need an expert on p38's before spending serious money that may or may not solve the problem. Forget about taking it to a main L/R dealer. You need to find a good independent garage.

Corrosion of the brake pipe behind the fuel tank is a common problem. Sounds as though the car may have been neglected.

I would check the basics first before going any further. Check and renew brake pipes that need it. Change fluid and bleed system (the correct factory way). Check pads/discs and retaining pins. Test the ABS pump and accumulator. Do a search on here for the method. Accumulators commonly need replacing and are not too dear.

Problems with ABS sensors obviously affect brake performance and can be easily replaced.

Expensive parts are the modulator, Wabco ECU and the ABS pump.
 
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