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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

ABS motor suddenly went out - I drove my RRC to the office yesterday and Monday just fine, but when I went to leave last night the brake motor failed to turn on.
I've had times before where I have to turn the key to half-cock twice to get the ABS motor to engage, but the problem went away after more regular use.
FYI the brakes and fluid were changed last year and only have 500 miles on them. Brake fluid reservoir is full, and brakes have been working fine up until yesterday.

Anyone experience this before? Any leads on what the usual culprits to check would be?
 

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I had the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago, you should be able to find the thread within the first couple of forum pages. It turned out to be a faulty pressure switch, the switch from the P38 pump assembly is a straight swap, $7 from my local breakers yard. If you jump the power supply to the pump at the relay connector block and the pump runs, there's a good chance the pressure switch has failed, I'd certainly try that first as there seems to be plenty of P38s getting parted out! My accumulator is also knackered, but that's another story.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks MillSpeed, I'll put a brake pressure switch and a brake relay on order for now, and hook up a multimeter to see if things check out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been able to find a new brake pressure switch on Amazon for just over $100 - it looks just like the one on an RRC, but says it's for GM vehicles; is this type of switch used on other vehicles?
For example, the stepper motor on the RRC is identical to one found on a Chevy Astro, so I'm wondering if this is another case of parts sharing.
 

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Before you buy another pressure switch, take the old one off and push the pin in and out several times. I have found there can be a fine build up of your older brake fluid. (Pushing it in and out cleans it out if you listen closely). Good luck...those pumps are expensive
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, new pressure switch came in; installing it did nothing to solve my problems, except that now my ABS pump has a new shiny green piece on it.

FWIW I also checked the relays and fuses underneath the driver’s seat. From what I can recall, you can test a fuel pump relay by feeling whether it clicks when the ignition is turned on. I tried this on all of the relays and they all passed; the fuses looked good too. Not sure if it’s a valid form of testing though

Also, if I didn’t mention earlier, the parking brake light is permanently on. No codes are being displayed on under the passenger side fault-code screen either
 

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Maybe you should bleed you brake
Lines
And don’t let this small problem
Cause you to create another problem
Focus on the brakes
 

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time to break out your vhom meter, amp clamp and or your test light and verify the motor is receiving power. if so your motor may be dead, sometimes if you what on it it runs temporarily.
also rave lists a way to check and clear for abs codes by using a jumper wire and brake light blink. the plug is blue under the left seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@95classiclwb holy crap it worked! Tapped the abs pump motor with a hammer and ignition on, the thing fired right up and hasn’t had an issue in the last 100 miles.
Seems like the motor is going out, so I’ll order a new one and get that installed.
 

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@95classiclwb holy crap it worked! Tapped the abs pump motor with a hammer and ignition on, the thing fired right up and hasn’t had an issue in the last 100 miles.
Seems like the motor is going out, so I’ll order a new one and get that installed.
either a bushing or a bearing is worn out causing the brushes to hang up, either way it it just a temporary fix.
 
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