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Hi guys. This am temps got cold and I woke up to the P38 giving me ABS/TC/(and I think) SRS lights on in the bottom left dash. A pumping sound continued after shutting off the motor and removing the key. Went inside to look up ABS problems on this site then returned to the rover. Upon restarting, no pumping sound whatsoever and no ABS function, very little brake pressure--drove home at low speed and using low gears as I couldn't trust the brakes. Fuses look ok. I've read the ABS accumulator and pump pages, which don't seem to mention what to do/or how to differentiate between the two units when no pump/accumulator sounds are present and ABS function is simply gone. I suspect the pump or accumulator failed. Can any body help me out? BTW, I now live 1 1/2 hours from the nearest testbook equiped shop! Any help greatly appreciated, cheers, Mike
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Mike--02 HSE said:
Hi guys. This am temps got cold and I woke up to the P38 giving me ABS/TC/(and I think) SRS lights on in the bottom left dash. A pumping sound continued after shutting off the motor and removing the key. Went inside to look up ABS problems on this site then returned to the rover. Upon restarting, no pumping sound whatsoever and no ABS function, very little brake pressure--drove home at low speed and using low gears as I couldn't trust the brakes. Fuses look ok. I've read the ABS accumulator and pump pages, which don't seem to mention what to do/or how to differentiate between the two units when no pump/accumulator sounds are present and ABS function is simply gone. I suspect the pump or accumulator failed. Can any body help me out? BTW, I now live 1 1/2 hours from the nearest testbook equiped shop! Any help greatly appreciated, cheers, Mike
It's unlikely to be the main issue, but as things have suddenly got cold, and a possible electrical issue has occured, maybe check out the battery and alternator conditions before troubleshooting any further? See the electrical sticky at the top of the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rich998a said:
It's unlikely to be the main issue, but as things have suddenly got cold, and a possible electrical issue has occured, maybe check out the battery and alternator conditions before troubleshooting any further? See the electrical sticky at the top of the forum.

Thanks Rich,

I called Falconworks in Arizona who are referenced on the ABS Troubleshooting page and he says it sounds like a typical stuck relay leading to a fried ABS pump. If only I had realized when the pump didn't stop after I removed the key that I should remove the relay (or the ABS fuse) immediately. I'm going to remove the abs pump and try to get a look inside.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

The ABS pump is supposed to switch off when you turn off the ignition. When it keeps running for too long the motor burns out. You have to check for presence of voltage on the connector to the pump. If it is present and the pump doesn't work your pump is gone. You need a new pump or overhaul the electromotor by fitting a new rotor. Check your black ABS pump relay and change it as it might be faulty and the cause of your troubles in the first place.

Regards

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jos Geuze said:
Hi

The ABS pump is supposed to switch off when you turn off the ignition. When it keeps running for too long the motor burns out. You have to check for presence of voltage on the connector to the pump. If it is present and the pump doesn't work your pump is gone. You need a new pump or overhaul the electromotor by fitting a new rotor. Check your black ABS pump relay and change it as it might be faulty and the cause of your troubles in the first place.

Regards

Jos
As I said, I learned too late about this. My relay is on its way as we speak. Hopefully this thread will save somebody's abs pump. As Jos said, if your abs pump keeps running after the ignition is off, run to the engine fusebox and pull the black abs relay--the fusebox lid has a diagram showing which one is for ABS.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I had a similar thing happen with my P38. When I unplugged the pump to check voltage there was indeed voltage, I plugged the pump back in and off it went. I never had a problem with it again. I put it down to a bit of condensation in the big white plug, so squirted a bit of wd40 in there and put some Vaseline around the join to keep it sealed.

Dan
 

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Hi

You can remove the pump first with unscrewing the 3 screws that hold it to the motor.

The remove the plastic shield at the back of the motor.
Now unsolder the electric wires.
Open the back plate by carefully tapping back the steel ridges that hold the plate in place.
Lift off the plate and remove the paper and rubber insulation of the wires.
Now you can take out the carbon brush assembly followed by the rotor.

If your carbon brush holders are in good condition you might be able to fit a new rotor.
If your carbon brush holders are completely melted you have to find new ones. I have no idea where. I used two burned out motors to make one working one.

I sourced one from:

http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/abs ... r8802.html

They list that they are out off stock but if you call them and send in your old one they might be able to repair it.

There are some photo's of the repair at the following link:

http://www.jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/abs_pump.htm

The link is for the classic pump but the P38 pump is similar but has 3 plungers instead of 5 like the classic.

If you can find a classic pump then you can use the classic motor to fit on the P38 pump, and use the rubber shocks at the back of the motor instead of the screw down bracket from the p38.

Good luck

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jos Geuze said:
Hi

You can remove the pump first with unscrewing the 3 screws that hold it to the motor.

The remove the plastic shield at the back of the motor.
Now unsolder the electric wires.
Open the back plate by carefully tapping back the steel ridges that hold the plate in place.
Lift off the plate and remove the paper and rubber insulation of the wires.
Now you can take out the carbon brush assembly followed by the rotor.

If your carbon brush holders are in good condition you might be able to fit a new rotor.
If your carbon brush holders are completely melted you have to find new ones. I have no idea where. I used two burned out motors to make one working one.

I sourced one from:

http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/abs ... r8802.html

They list that they are out off stock but if you call them and send in your old one they might be able to repair it.

There are some photo's of the repair at the following link:

http://www.jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/abs_pump.htm

The link is for the classic pump but the P38 pump is similar but has 3 plungers instead of 5 like the classic.

If you can find a classic pump then you can use the classic motor to fit on the P38 pump, and use the rubber shocks at the back of the motor instead of the screw down bracket from the p38.

Good luck

Jos
Thanks for that Jos; I called invasion and they have the rotor which I thought I should just order right now, but if the brush holders are melted, the rotor alone won't solve my problem. So I need to remove the pump and disassemble or order a new/rebuilt one. The guy there was pretty helpful on the phone.
 
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