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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, good folks!

What would you guess the cause of this combination of lights and errors to be? (nevermind the pixel error for now)

 

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Let’s make this multiple choice, the answer key can be found inside of a code reader.

A. Low blinker fluid
B. Bad muffler bearing
C. Dead battery/low voltage/bad ground
D. Bad steering angle sensor

Pick one, and get the codes read and an auto parts store, and report back.

Try steering wheel left and right all the way first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Well its an 05 or earlier from the dash picture. check your wheel speed sensors, Left Rear is the most likely culprit if you also have lost your speedometer indication.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I apologize for the banality of my question, I threw this out there in a rush on my way to check out a '03 TD6 Vogue for sale which I am now the owner of. Was hoping my OG status join date would cut me some slack. :smile:

Based on the feedback thus far, the problem is hopefully as lame as the question. I had brought my ELM327 adapter, but was told my by Torque app that there were no stored codes. Also, tried the lock-to-lock steering trick with no effect. Battery was apparently fairly new, so neither a likely culprit. The problem - according to the owner - first appeared after winter, and has occurred intermittently since, but lights had not turned off in a couple of weeks during irregular use.

I am crossing my fingers that this is not something major - what is a feasibly worst case scenario?

Where/how would you recommend me to continue the diagnosis? Any culpable fuses? Inspect actual ABS sensors? Hook off battery to reset computer(s)?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am guessing the Torque app does not have the level of depth necessary to extract codes beyond the ECU?

Mark, thanks for the tip. Speedo works, but cruise control apparently does not. Does that rule out wheel speed sensors altogether?
 

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No, the cruise control may use one of the other wheel speed sensors, usually its just a connection issue, there are connectors in each wheel well inside small plastic boxes that fill with sand and other road junk over time, and the electrical connections get iffy, just pull the connectors apart and clean them with contact cleaner and plug them back together and see if that helps. Plus I believe that the Cruise Control is disabled when there is an issue with the ABS.
 

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IWas hoping my OG status join date would cut me some slack.
Dude cut us some slack. You have been here long over 7 years, have no Rover info in your signature, no location do explain market differences and you are giving us no real info. Your regional slang means nothing on a technical site.

Your ELM327 is not diagnostic equipment. If it is genuine it only reads engine codes. No idea what a Torque app is, but I doubt it's ability to read past the engine either. Battery age does not mean it is a viable battery, or that you aging cable do not have resistance or that the alternator is up to snuff.

Problems in winter are different in Alaska than they are in Hawaii... again, no reference available.

There are countless threads on first gen brakes, sensors etc. EAS is heavily covered. "Hook off battery"? If you mean disconnecting the battery it does nothing to clear codes or reset computers on a first gen L322. It will how ever clear any personal presets you have programmed.

There are no codes provided for either system. Without codes we can not provide any ideas or pose plausibility for a worse case scenario. I would suggest you follow the site guidelines, do your home work, take to an independent shop or dealer to have diagnostic run so you actually know what the issue is. Your other option is to purchase your own diagnostic gear, read the EAS and braking systems and proceed to the search functions to plan a course of action.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Why would your "OG status join date" cut you some slack? If anything, you should have figured out over the past eight years to put your vehicle information in your signature.....:roll:

If the speedo works, forget the wheel speed sensors.
You need to get into the ECM's to KNOW what is going on with it. Otherwise, everyone here is guessing, period.
When our '03 did that, it was the SAS every time. But without plugging yours in, it could be anything seeing as all the systems are tied together. You've already tried the only possible simple fix, and that didn't work.
Get it read by someone with the right kit, then report back.

Martin
 

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The cruise control is disable by the Can bus after it receives the ABS fault, no direct connection to the wheel speed sensors. Depending on your electrical abilities, you can pull the plug off the ABS controller between the right shock tower, and valve cover, and probe the wheel speed sensors for continuity. Tthat big connector is C506, the LF wheel speed sensor hooks to terminals 12 and 28, RF connects to 15, and 16, LR connects to 13, and 29, and RR connects to 14, and 31. Terminals 1-10 are across the bottom of the connector, 11 thru 26 are across the center row , and 27 thru 42 are across the top row. The sensor may have a polarity associated with them so check continuity both ways (swap the plus and minus leads) to make sure you get a good reading. If any of them come back as open circuited (infinite ohms resistance) that would be the first one I checked the local connector by each wheel. Front connectors are right behind the front shocks at the bottom of the wheel well liner, rear ones a located behind the wheel well liner rearward of the hub centerline about 6". You will see the Sensor, and brake pad wear lead going up into the bottom of the box. The boxes have two "U" shaped latches on the side, pop the latch off the tab on the cover and the box will open up.
 

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Was looking for some ideas for faults and found this excellent thread .
My RR l322 2004 RH Drive was affected 2 days ago with the HDC/ AIR SUP. AND STIFF STEERING plus speedo failure , and the latter tells me I might have ordered the wrong rear abs sensor, however they are not sided as the speed sensor mentioned for speedo reading is be taken off the L Rear on Left hand drive cars,but maybe that doesnt make a difference when I look at RH Drive cars. The upshot is I can test all this at the ABS Module which incidentally is left side on UK cars , the sensor showing a code on mine is RRight, and it was open circuit,the L Rear said something about Low plausibility , I can now test all the terminals on the abs plug.Get back soon!
Cheers Pat
Apologies for raising old thread!
 

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Something not right here , I hav testd all abs points on the plug as above and there are no continuity readings matching the numbers given above. What am I doing wrong anyone , I have tried with
the battery on and ignition separately ! I thought it would be a no brainer! I am using the small round holes and also tried the rectangular ones , but I do not think the latter. Are US Rangys different numbers perhaps . I will try and run Rave.
 

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Pinouts would be the same world wide. There may be fewer or more harnesses in a rig depending on market and available options. Some of the connectors may have slots not used.
 

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ABS

Wheel Speed Sensors

The ABS ECU (C0506) provides a feed to all four wheel speed sensors as follows: (these are the connector numbers at the wheels)


To the LH front wheel speed sensor (C0516) on an R wire.

To the RH front wheel speed sensor (C0517) on a Y wire.

The LH rear wheel speed sensor (C0502) on a W wire.

To the RH rear wheel speed sensor (C0503) on a G wire.

The wheel speed sensors are hall effect sensors, and provide the ABS ECU with a square wave form signal. This signal rises and falls between approximately 2.5V and 0.75V. By measuring the frequency of the waveform, the ABS ECU can calculate the speed of the road wheel. The sensors provide the ABS ECU (C0506) with a wheel speed signal as follows:

From the LH front wheel speed sensor (C0516) on a UR wire.

From the RH front wheel speed sensor (C0517) on a UY wire.

From the LH rear wheel speed sensor (C0502) on a UW wire.

From the RH rear wheel speed sensor (C0503) on a UG wire.

Top image is the connections to the wheel sensors, bottom image is the ABS power and Data connections
 

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Thanks for your efforts so far , I have elected to check further tomorrow, this is not helping sorry , since all these pin outs are the same which ever side you drive on , why am I getting no response r resistance/continuity readings from my
apparently serviceable other abs sensors
 

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I have a couple of new spare sensors laying around so I checked one, the resistance was 175K ohms one way, swapped the leads and it was 720K ohms the other, so circuit resistance is very high, but they are continuous from one lead to the other.
 

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That’s good about spare sensors as the one suspected faulty has open circuit.
Why do I get open circuit at the connector with the rest of pin outs please? I’m using copper .7 and clicks in fine to pin outs .
 

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What kind of a meter are you using, might not have enough (or to much) internal resistance? Mine is an old fluke digital multimeter that goes up to 20 Meg Ohms. The numbers I got were way higher than I suspected they would be, but at least they did not report as an open circuit.
 
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