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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having some really odd behavior coming from the front hubs. Turning either way resulting in some clunking and clanking around until both the ABS and TC lights came on. Now my break pad wear was less than 5mm on all pads so I had them changed and I still have the lights on and the occasional odd sound when turning. Is it the TC trying to grab the rotor because it is malfunctioning? Also when I brake while turning into a parking spot, the steering becomes impossible to turn and I have to stop, back up and drive in. My turning radius is gone. I looked at old posts and didn't quite find anything pertaining to this. Not sure if it's a relay issue, (pull out clean and replace) or if I have more serious ABS TC issues. It's definitely mechanical, but are the relays causing it?

As always, any help much appreciated.

Oh yeah, the LR dealer doesn't even have the ABS gear to plug it in. I'd have to drive over an hour away...
 

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Going through this stage by stage, it sounds to me as though you have play in the front wheel bearings, so check these first. Any free play will knock the ABS sensors out of adjustment and cause all sorts of problems.
Traction Control doesn't work on the front wheels on Classics.
You don't need the dealer to diagnose the ABS system, there's a system built into the car, just look at this post:
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35875&p=281919&hilit=abs+fault#p281919

Make sure you fix the mechanicals first though!!
Regards,
Pete.
 

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Normally the first test is to jack vehicle off ground and grab tire top and bottom to feel any loosness. Check bearing end play. Check swivel pin play. Also a bad caliper will grab the brakes sometimes. Could also be CV joints or viscous coupler. The only way to tell is to grab some tools and start taking things apart, as soon as something falls apart in your hand you'll have found your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should have mentioned this happened before I needed to replace my wiper motor. So when I brought it to the dealer for that, I had them look at what they thought that clunking in the front was. They thought it was my loose ass end reverberating up front (which I knew it wasn't) but they did replace the bushings in the rear cuz those were loose as hell. Supposedly they had it up, with a crowbar trying to move things around and see what was loose. They swore the front end was solid, and as I mentioned the rear. But I don't know if they put pressure on the rear wheels. You would think so... wouldn't ya?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Stupid question... please hold your laughter until I finish.

How many ABS connections are there supposed to be from pad plug connection to system plug connection? Each wheel? Just the front? Just the passenger side? I am unclear as my passenger front ABS plug is not plugged into anything. I have a plug from the pad but nothing to plug it into and a very suspicious broken wire hanging there that looks like in goes to ground but probably doesn't. The passenger rear is there are plugged in and I couldn't find the plug set on the drivers side front and back from the pads or system.

Commence laughter...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anybody have a photo or diagram showing what the front passenger side plug from the pads to the other plug looks like? I'm unclear as to what is missing on mine. I have a wire hanging there, would like to see if there should also be a male plug attached to it. If not is that a new harness that I would need? Clueless. ABS and I are not friends.
 

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I think what you're looking at is the wiring for the Brake Pad Wear warning system. The ABS cable comes out of the top swivel joint in a sort of corrugated pipe and only connects inside the front wing in the engine bay.
Regards,
Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bagospanners you are right. Upon startup my breakpad wear sensor doesn't illuminate.
I still have no connection from my abs to that pad. I did before. This is only a recent oddity. I'll try looking around a little more but it's **** cold...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Or are you saying the plug in to the pads is ONLY for the pad wear sensor? Or is it also connected to ABS?
 

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The two systems are completely unconnected. The brake pad wear system only operates a warning lamp on the dash, nothing else. I don't understand why you say "I still have no connection from my abs to that pad. I did before." ABS doesn't connect to the pads, the sensor wire disappears into the top of the swivel housing, they look like this: http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/Range_Rover_Classic_Wabco_ABS_Brake_Sensors.html

Instead of randomly pulling bits apart, clear the codes from the ECU using the method with the paperclip, then drive it around and re-check for fault codes. At least this will tell you what area to look in (and you can stay warm whilst you're doing it!!).
Regards
Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got it. Plugs = pad wear sensor. ABS altogether different.

Yes, I will clear the codes. I've never heard anything like this. At times it's quiet, others, it's like the hub is going to fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey again everybody,

Not to beat this already beaten horse some more, but I did the diagnostic and received codes:
2-8 No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
2-12 Front right large air gap
3-10 (didn't see this anywhere)
6-12 Front right - no output from sensor- large air gap
6-13 Rear left, no output from sensor - large air gap

Cleared codes and second pass=
6-12 Front right - no output from sensor- large air gap

So, where do I begin. I've read about tapping the sensor to the exciter ring but I'm not sure what I'm tapping. Is this a wheel off procedure?
If it is a relay, would that also take into consideration I have a TC light on as well? Any advice much appreciated as always.
Thanks.
-W.
 

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OK, at least you now know here to look! This is easier with the wheel off until you know what you're doing: remove wheel, look down onto the top of the front swivel, just outboard of the chrome section, you'll see a corrugated cable disappearing into the top of the swivel housing. Clean this area of dirt etc (may need a wire brush). Take a section of wooden dowel (or similar) about 3" long by 1/2" diameter, look where the cable goes into the swivel housing and gently knock the sensor into the housing until it stops. This resets the air gap. The first rotation of the wheel will knock it out to the correct clearance (it's only held in by a sprung copper sleeve). Put the wheel back on the and test. If this keeps happening, you have a problem with the bearing / reluctor ring / retainer sleeve etc and you'll then have to strip that side and delve deeper.
Good Luck,
Pete.
 
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