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95 RRC County LWB
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi! First time posting but long time lurker. I'm about to start two major interior projects (well three if you count just trying to find every loose component and tighten it down) - project 1 is soundproofing the cabin to try and cut way back on the engine / exhaust noise at high speeds (currently considering Resonix or NVX, comparing soon). Can anyone speak to the possibilities of deadening the truck (and how much you really need to cover to make it work)?

Project 2 is upgrading the stereo with a touchscreen head unit and replacing all the speakers. NOW the thing is, I would ideally like to keep the wiring as is and swap out the components. Has anyone ever done this? Do you have any tips? Am I out of my mind?

This is all happening with my 95 County LWB, which had the six speaker setup (2 in windshield frame, 2 in front doors, 2 in rear above back window) + sub and CD changer (all original from what I can tell).

Any help or advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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There's a useful thread on here about head units. The thing to be careful of from a practical perspective seems to be that some display screens obstruct the transfer case selector knob.

Thedownshiftchannel on YouTube recently posted a pretty thorough video of his own head and speaker change which might be helpful.
 

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95 RRC County LWB
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's a useful thread on here about head units. The thing to be careful of from a practical perspective seems to be that some display screens obstruct the transfer case selector knob.
Well on the 95 the head unit sits at the top of the dash so the screen actually extends up. Knob is free and clear! I'll check out that video. There's really very few resources in terms of technical step by step for this kind of thing.
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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That must be much more convenient! There's a guy who made a head unit that fits in the phone tray / original speaker hole, complete with a cowl that looks like the instrument cluster. Looked fantastic!

Does the change in location give you more options of off the shelf head units? I know on older ones, the depth of the space for the head unit is a bit shallow.

Good luck!
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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This is the thread I was referring to, although perhaps not as relevant with the change of head location:

 

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95 RRC County LWB
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does the change in location give you more options of off the shelf head units? I know on older ones, the depth of the space for the head unit is a bit shallow.
Yeah as far as where the screen can live, it gives you more options. Still single din but a little better. I went with this model after looking for something that would be as plain as possible

I think it's going to fit okay (though I might have to do some custom facing for it once installed). My big concern is the wiring... which so far is very confusing. Aiming for something like this thread (which inspired me to do this), but still not clear on if I'll be able to keep my original wiring or not.
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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That's a tidy and tasteful display, avoids the Merc / Tesla look of having bought a giant tablet with some car bits around it!

I'm keeping my slightly rubbish aftermarket head for now, in part to avoid wiring issues and in part because I'm not decided what I want to do. Part of me would love to stick the 80s tape player back in...

Speakers are on their way, as the door ones are blown. Thankfully I've only got two to do, with no mesh (mine just has holes in the door card - our interiors are a world apart if you've got a soft dash!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Speakers are on their way, as the door ones are blown. Thankfully I've only got two to do, with no mesh (mine just has holes in the door card - our interiors are a world apart if you've got a soft dash!)
Yeah my plan is to start with swapping all the speakers. If everything is working I'll at least know the wiring is still intact. Probably starting that today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update! So far this is.... Actually working (edit: do not judge the song playing — it was my 7-year-old daughter's selection!)
295701
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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I'm curious how that resonix sound deadener will perform, I dynamatted mine and it made a decent diference, but there's still wind and general road noise from the huge amount of glass area. The resonix stuff is quite heavy though, 1.25lbs of lead sheet per square foot, when covering the whole car that's like carrying an extra large passenger around with you all the time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I'm curious how that resonix sound deadener will perform, I dynamatted mine and it made a decent diference, but there's still wind and general road noise from the huge amount of glass area. The resonix stuff is quite heavy though, 1.25lbs of lead sheet per square foot, when covering the whole car that's like carrying an extra large passenger around with you all the time!
I may not do the entire car in Resonix. I'm testing it compared to NVX right now (as soon as I have everything) — I'll probably use a mixture, and then I'm going to lay down some Dynapad (or... something like it if there's a quieter material). If I can significantly deaden the exhaust noise I will consider it a win — right now it's so loud my wife basically refuses to get in the truck.
 

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I may not do the entire car in Resonix. I'm testing it compared to NVX right now (as soon as I have everything) — I'll probably use a mixture, and then I'm going to lay down some Dynapad (or... something like it if there's a quieter material). If I can significantly deaden the exhaust noise I will consider it a win — right now it's so loud my wife basically refuses to get in the truck.
I've been trying to get that balance for sure, and hard to get the best of both worlds. I like the exhaust note, but hate exhaust drone, and want a nice quiet cabin for cruising on the highway. No one wants conversations to require yelling over road and engine noise! I'm intereested to hear how you get on, and what difference the resonix/NVX/dynapad makes. Dynamat's hoodliner worked nicely as well, defiitely reduced hood vibrations and noise/heat coming through, I would recommend it as an option.


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For the speakers I did a lot of measuring and found Focal three way 165AS3 components will fit in the 95 door panels pretty well. The tweeters will go in the pillars if you completely disassemble them.
 

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Based on the pictures you are already past this stage but for anyone working on swapping the head unit a Metra 70-9400 wiring harness is cheap and useful. I can’t wait to see what it looks like in the dash. I have considered a floating display head unit but want to see how it will look from the side and whether it blocks the vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The biggest problem right now is that the head unit looks good but from the side you can see the metal bracket that holds the screen on. As this manufacturer doesn't make any housings for that... I have invested in a 3D printer and plan to print one that I've designed. Yes, that sounds insane I'm sure.

Right now I'm a bit stuck with the whole project because I'm not getting audio in two of my right front speakers (mid and tweeter) and the sub is outputting a very low signal. I'm considering jettisoning the amp and/or sub and replacing with something new, but that presents its own issues. Right now I may piggyback those two speakers straight out of the head unit for both left and right up front (I've tested and it sounds pretty good), and put a new sub with amp in the back. My big concern is how to get appropriate power to the sub without blowing up my truck somehow.
 

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I have invested in a 3D printer and plan to print one that I've designed. Yes, that sounds insane I'm sure.
Not insane at all, I've 3D printed all kinds of brackets and plastic bits for mine.
 

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Running power to the factory amp and sub location isn’t too bad. You can go under the truck and come up through the grommet that is already there in the floor under the sub. The factory amp originally ran all the speakers so you have signal wires from the head unit at its wiring harness as well a speaker wires to all the speaker locations. Some shallow truck type boxes can fit in the factory sub location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Running power to the factory amp and sub location isn’t too bad. You can go under the truck and come up through the grommet that is already there in the floor under the sub. The factory amp originally ran all the speakers so you have signal wires from the head unit at its wiring harness as well a speaker wires to all the speaker locations. Some shallow truck type boxes can fit in the factory sub location.
You wouldn't happen to know what all of these original wires represent would you? I clipped the smaller adapter here thinking I knew at least what was power and ground going to original amp but I think I was wrong and am now completely lost.
Finger Thumb Electrical wiring Wire Electric blue

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The plug in the first picture is the factory amp +12v (pair of purple), ground (pair of black). Rather than thicker wire they just have two wires for those. I ran new RCA cables for signal, but think that first plug also has the inputs from the head unit. The colors there likely match up with the ones you connected to the head unit.

I wish I had taken more pictures. The one in the second picture has the pairs of speaker wires like the orange/black, yellow/black, blue/black, etc. I think the colors stayed the same at the speakers so I just pulled the rear ceiling speakers to identify those colors. The orange/black (-) and yellow/black (+) are one of the rear ceiling speakers. The blue/black (-) and green/black (+) is the other rear ceiling speaker. The front speakers will be next to those, but I don't have a good picture to confirm the colors. The purple with yellow stripe is the amp turn on lead.

I have some pictures from when I took the big amp out of my 93 and put a small one in before moving the big amp to the 95. The amps on the 93 an 95 are different so they won't match up exactly, but I do have some pictures from that that may help. I think the color codes are likely to be unchanged.
295908


The right side of the amp has the power and speaker outputs. The left side are inputs connected to an RCA cable I ran to the replacement head unit.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The plug in the first picture is the factory amp +12v (pair of purple), ground (pair of black). Rather than thicker wire they just have two wires for those. I ran new RCA cables for signal, but think that first plug also has the inputs from the head unit. The colors there likely match up with the ones you connected to the head unit.

I wish I had taken more pictures. The one in the second picture has the pairs of speaker wires like the orange/black, yellow/black, blue/black, etc. I think the colors stayed the same at the speakers so I just pulled the rear ceiling speakers to identify those colors. The orange/black (-) and yellow/black (+) are one of the rear ceiling speakers. The blue/black (-) and green/black (+) is the other rear ceiling speaker. The front speakers will be next to those, but I don't have a good picture to confirm the colors. The purple with yellow stripe is the amp turn on lead.
First off THANK YOU!!!! I have been going crazy trying to figure this out. This honestly is so helpful I can't even describe it.

Now here's the weird thing. I've hooked up the power, ground, and amp turn on to a JL audio 5 channel amp (the amp turn on is going to the remote turn on hook-up which I believe is right??) but I can't get the amp to switch on. Is it possible I need to run a new power line and fuse from battery? I've got a kit here with 4 guage wire and fuses, but I thought I would get something out of the current power. When I check the lines I see a positive 12v signal on the remote line but nothing on the power line at all. Any thoughts?
 
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