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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am experiencing a number of issues that have seemingly all started within a couple of days. I just got the truck up and running a few weeks ago after it completely died in a 7-11 parking lot after running in for only a minute. Thought it was the BECM, so sent it over to BECM Dr. (Scotty) and he found there to be nothing wrong with it (he hooked it up to his Rover and it started fine). So he said it's either my fuse box or my cluster. Well I tested the power wires that go into the BECM and was getting a consistent reading from them as from the battery. So therefore, power is getting to the BECM. So when Scotty sent back my BECM he also sent back a used cluster for me to try. When I hooked it all up, still dead....it had been sitting, disconnected, for about a month due to the holidays and both Scotty and myself travelling, but that turned out to be a really bad battery. So got the battery replaced under warranty (was only 4 months old....part of the issue??) and when I put the new battery in, everything worked, started right up. Idle was a little rough, but like a said, it sat for a month, so check engine light came on. I added a can of BG to the fuel tank and it started running perfectly smooth again and check engine light turned off. Then....all of this started happening about 5 days or so later....

1. Check engine light came back on, so took it in to get codes read and this is what came back:
PO126: Insufficient coolant temp
P1590: rough road signal
PO300: random multiple misfire
PO307: Cyl. 7 misfire

2. Traction failure warning light
3. ABS fault: this and the traction failure notice were happening randomly, but now they happen consistently without fail after driving for a minute or so.
4. Temp gauge goes into the red: when it first happened I obviously thought I was overheating so immediately pulled over, but everything was fine.Now happens all the time; just goes from center to the red, then whips back to center and no overheating of the engine.
5. Doors randomly lock and unlock while driving...and, oddly, usually when the temp gauge jumps to red, but not always.
6. Fuel gauge jumps around a few 1/8ths, but only when over half full.When it's below half, it stays in the same place.
7. A green trailer icon on the cluster that I have never seen before occasionally pops on for a few seconds, then off (no, I do not have a trailer hooked up)
8. Occasionally, when the headlights are on, it tells me that the RH and LH tail lights are out, and the number plate light is out, but they're fine.
9. The side view mirrors occasionally lose their memory and are in some weird position after I get back into truck. I have to keep moving them back to where they were set.
10. At night, when driving with headlights on, the green background of the info window in the cluster brightens and dims.

Other than these 10 things all happening within a few days of each other and now have been going on for almost 2 weeks, the truck drives fine. Idle is fine. Starts fine. Even had the battery tested today and it's strong as new. So no idea what all this could be. Could it be the fuse box? While I was waiting for the BECM I did, just in case, order 4-5 new yellow relays that I replaced in my fuse box because 1 or 2 of the old ones had some brown heat marks on them.

It's a 2001 4.6 HSE (Bosch) with about 144,000 miles on it.

Also, and I'm pretty sure this is unrelated to all of the above, there is an SRS airbag fault warning too.But that was on immediately after I started the car after hooking up the BECM and replacement cluster. I know that it's the yellow wires beneath the passenger seat, that had to be disconnected when I removed the BECM, but after reconnecting it, and fiddling with it (fiddling as in, disconnecting and reconnecting a few times), the SRS warning is still there.

Thanks for your input guys...
Chris
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Fuse box could be a culprit, but it also sounds to me like it could be an electrical grounding issue - either to the BECM, or maybe one of the main ground points somewhere.

If you do the tests in the electrical sticky, what results do you get?

Be careful swapping clusters about, especially if they have higher mileage than the original, as it will overwrite the mileage in the BECM and it's a pain to reset it!
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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107 Posts
What if it's a bad ground, like marty suggests above, to the battery resulting in the alternator having problems charging the battery and the battery finally goes bad because of that, and in turn the bad ground manifests in all these ten different issues at once?

I replaced my ground cable from the battery. The grounding point below the fusebox did not look pretty. It's the middle one on the picture below.
Added some more pics if anyone cares.



Old ground wires:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pq6smofrr1u6d7l/IMG_2921.JPG?dl=0

New ground wires, the midpart was a pain to re use but I had to since I lacked enough lugs to make three different wires, I managed to pry it open and clean it up and clamp it back on the copper. Soldered every lug afterwards.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1jix01llp55hk3p/IMG_2922.JPG?dl=0

Replaced everything on the positive side as well. The positive battery terminal was really nice to get rid of. Car starts better afterwards. :thumb:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/255ikxarggddblw/IMG_2933.JPG?dl=0
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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274 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So here's a new twist to the story....I was just texting with Scotty about these issues today and it just dawned on him that I have a Bosch engine and the cluster he sent me is from a GEMS. So next step is going to try and put my old cluster back in....which may be bad and not work. If it is bad, then he's going to just send me another one, and supposed I'll just put the GEMS one back in for now. But I could tell this was an old one simply by the fonts of the gauge numbers and the temp gauge looks different. So we shall see.....I'll let you know.....

(and yes Marty, I am fully aware of the milage issue with swapping these out. Had a new mechanic about 2 years ago, not aware of this and they swapped out my BECM with a used one and added 18,100 miles to my cluster. And they had no idea this happens, and when I complained about the 18,100 extra miles, they denied it and said it wasn't their fault. Got my money back after many fights. But in this case with Scotty, and the replacement cluster, I lost about 30K miles.....but too bad it's a GEMS cluster)

Thanks for your inputs guys....really appreciate it...will be back once I swap clusters.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
A GEMS cluster should still work in a Thor vehicle.

The background behind the gauges changed on the later 2000? onwards models - but other than that they still work the same way...

So if you installed the GEMS cluster and it still didn't work, then it sounds to me like the issue is elsewhere...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
So cluster worked (which tells me it was not originally the cluster that was the issue....seems it may have been either the battery, which has been replaced, and/or a relay). Anyway...all the same issues as above arose, except the SRS fault, that went away. So going to today check the grounds as you guys suggested.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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274 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So in the interest of closing out this thread....I hope....I believe I solved the issue. Loose ground wire nut on BECM. I tightened up all 4 of the power connections to the BECM and problem seems to have gone away...so far. Ground nut was pretty loose for some reason. Thanks so much for the info guys.
 
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