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LEGACY VENDOR
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2,492 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Some may find this one too big but i thought the OEM was too small for the job i asked him (i always work with rebuilt VB and new airsprings).

This monsters gives 4,77 CFM at 0 PSI which means nothing but it can fill my tank in less than 2 mins 30s.

Why do i need that?
-I do Valve Black Rebuilts and like to test them before selling them to my customers
-I like not to depend on customers' old and nearly dead OEM compressors, that way i can fill their tank in 3 mins and not let them wait for 30 mins with the OEM.
-Usefull to fill the tires or air mattress at camp
-Usefull to use with a air jack
...
In short terms, i transformed my EAS OEM system in a mobile Air Station.

The bad thing is the electrical install in order to run it safely.
-winch solenoid relay 500 Amp peak (it's a small winch motor inside the compressor)
-4 GA (30²) power cable
-80 Amp Fuse
-35 Amp Safety switch

Another big deal was vibes and noise.
That thing vibrated like crazy but i tried 4 different types of silentblocs before finding the very good ones. With the others i would have trashed it in an hour.

Believe it or not, with a combo of silentblocs and 2 layers of dampening materials, i have no vibes at all but only a very short noise like a fridge with the window down.

So you may want to see the result.



You may ask where is the valve block, well let's start the challenge to see who find it?
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
My Thompson 337 fills the tank from completely empty to full in 2:19...and it's almost a drop in unit.
I think going with a bigger compressor is a good thing, especially if you ever decide to hook up a connection to fill tires/run air tools.
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
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4,509 Posts
it's under the elbow in the air inlet tube, a between the MAF and the plenum :)

what do I win?


my 327 thomas is almost a drop in, quiet, and fills in 4 minutes. and is 3 years old.......
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Joined
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2,492 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Guys, this one is a 100% duty and that makes a difference. I can go up and down (it's better if it's up :lol: ) all night long :mrgreen: .
No kidding, it hasn't the dreaded thermal switch of the Thomas and can be rebuilt at a fair price : 60 USD.

Dennis, i trashed the VB in place of the EVAP charcoal canister.

BTW, may you tell me if i could bypass the VB and go directly after the air dryer to the tank using 8mm line with a little tank mod?

Did you know those blue manual valves that allow me to swap a VB in a minute or so?
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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865 Posts
That compressor is nice but a over kill for the P38, as mentioned a 337 is a great upgrade
None the less you have made a good job of it all, my other concern is will the relocation of Valve block and the
new compressor handle the heat issue under the bonnet, a better mod would be to add a cooling tube to valve block
Im at present documenting "Worthy EAS mods" that upgrades compressor filter with final air intake from inside.
A cooling tube to EAS valve block, possibly with a fan as under hood temps rise when engine is switched off
Extending Compressor line to aid in cooling air from compressor to valve block, the original length is too short and
gets really hot on long compressor cycles.

I still think the valve block should be relocated to under the vehicle near air tank in a sealed box with a vent pipe to
say engine compartment or cab, valve block will stay cooler than it does now, as fitted on the RRIII

At least with that monster under your hood it will be a time saver when blowing up tyres
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
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4,509 Posts
996TURBO said:
BTW, may you tell me if i could bypass the VB and go directly after the air dryer to the tank using 8mm line with a little tank mod?
Yes, but it wouldn't be a little mod, as it used the diaphragm and non-return valves so you would have to go in to the tank straight from the dryer, out of the tank into the normal tank line, and back through the dryer through another line for lowering/desiccant regeneration

Did you know those blue manual valves that allow me to swap a VB in a minute or so?
Yes, I have a box of them for messing about, they're only rated to 190degreesF, underhood temps can weaken them and cause them to explode (guess how I know this...) and the clear airline you're using for jumpers, check the temp rating on that as well.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Joined
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2,492 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
viperover said:
That compressor is nice but a over kill for the P38, as mentioned a 337 is a great upgrade
None the less you have made a good job of it all, my other concern is will the relocation of Valve block and the
new compressor handle the heat issue under the bonnet, a better mod would be to add a cooling tube to valve block
Im at present documenting "Worthy EAS mods" that upgrades compressor filter with final air intake from inside.
A cooling tube to EAS valve block, possibly with a fan as under hood temps rise when engine is switched off
Extending Compressor line to aid in cooling air from compressor to valve block, the original length is too short and
gets really hot on long compressor cycles.

I still think the valve block should be relocated to under the vehicle near air tank in a sealed box with a vent pipe to
say engine compartment or cab, valve block will stay cooler than it does now, as fitted on the RRIII

At least with that monster under your hood it will be a time saver when blowing up tyres
You're right about heat issue. I do consider thermal sleeves for all that blowing company ;)
IMHO fans are not a definitive solution to heat. Insulation is better.

A cooling tube to valve block? Would you explain a little bit what you've in mind.
This compressor is already fed in air with OEM airbox air like for hummers H1.
There's also a factory fan fitted to it.
I put something like one meter of airline to between compressor and valve block.

I thought during a long time about relocating the valve block under the truck, then i add in hands a Range Rover LSE valve block and compressor. You do not want that stuff to beat the elements. The OEM box was not sealed to say the least.

I would have love to do as a friend of mine did with the same compressor : relocate compressor and valve block in the spare wheel but it's not easy for me to work this way as i always have a loaded trunk.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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865 Posts
Im hoping to mess about with this mod this week comming.

The idea so far is to lay a flex type pipe from left of radiator top (Theres a handy gap) to EAS box with a high flow
fan fitted in the pipe somewhere powered proberly via the fuse box and on all the time, a basic electronic timer
could be added to let the fan run longer once ignition is turned off to prevent heat build up within the eas box but
as mentioned insulation will proberly be ideal

Fans are rated to last between 10 000 to 50 000 hours and draw very little current of around 500 to 700ma at 12 volts

Eas compressor standard filter is useless and applying a in line fuel filter will filtrate alot better than at present.
 

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Registered
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276 Posts
Hi,

how did you bypass/remove the EVAP system?

I'd like to get rid of it, too, but as it is tied into the engine management I think it might upset the electronics...

Sigi
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Joined
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2,492 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
rogan said:
How does one of these stack up in pricing against something like the endless air. If I was going to get another pump I'd be tempted to get something engine driven.
Bought it for less than 200 USD. Then there' s shipping and tax duties but i bought it during a trip to the States.
 
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