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A Ghost is in my Machine... Any assistance would be Great!!!

3K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  Mindsoaker 
#1 · (Edited)
I Love my 2011 RR Supercharged. But for the past year it has really cost me. It very much likes to leave me stranded suddenly with no codes or hiccups whatsoever. Just dies...
At first I was thinking fuel pump, sensors etc... I have replaced Rear Fuel Pump, B pillar fuel sensor, cam positioning sensor, and the shop had it for 4 days and could not find anything.
All I want to do is drive it, but it has stranded me 5 times. that is 5 times to many, and AAA has denied me this last time for towing.
Any ideas would be great!
 
#4 ·
What happens when you try and restart it? Does it die at idol or while accelerating, or while on the highway? Any other symptoms? Electrical gremlins? What has your mechanic tried and ruled out?
Thanks for responding... When it dies..., there is no consistency whatsoever, the last time i was coming off an exit from highway, time before that was in a parking lot and would nt start, before that was leaving my neighborhood 20ft. from turn on acceleration, another time was wouldnt start in garage... another was I pulled over for a emergency vehicle, and went to resume and died...

In all occasions, it just turns over and over...

I have changed fuel pump, sensor, cam positioning, there are no service lights. The code reader says something is closed or not open... whether its a curcuit, or hose or line, sensor,,, i dont know...
 
#3 ·
Two ideas:
1 - provide more detail and a better description of what's wrong.
2 - read existing posts and search (use the search tool) to look for the many previous posts that are common to the problems you're seeing.

Oh, and a 3rd, post an introduction on the "new members" page, and put the configuration of your RR and location in your signature, so respondents don't have to dig to find what vehicle you're asking for help on.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for responding... When it dies..., there is no consistency whatsoever, the last time i was coming off an exit from highway, time before that was in a parking lot and would nt start, before that was leaving my neighborhood 20ft. from turn on acceleration, another time was wouldnt start in garage... another was I pulled over for a emergency vehicle, and went to resume and died...

In all occasions, it just turns over and over...

I have changed fuel pump, sensor, cam positioning, there are no service lights. The code reader says something is closed or not open... whether its a curcuit, or hose or line, sensor,,, i dont know...
 
#7 ·
Well, you need air, fuel, and spark. I doubt it's an airflow problem, because someone would have checked the filters by now. And it it was a spark problem I'd expect you'd see a misfire code. Does it idle smoothly? Assuming that the fuel pressure was checked after the pump was replaced, and the fuel filter was replaced along with the pump, I'd look at the injectors and see if there is any indication of them being clogged.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the response.
Yes all filters in entire vehicle have been replaced.
When it is operating, it idles great and runs like all is good. Then it will just die... no warning or sputter or nothing. Like the last time i was exiting the highway and right at the turn lane it died...
 
#8 ·
I was thinking about this again this morning, and thought I'd ask the group if a Mass Airflow Sensor could cause this sort fo problem? I had my air intake unhooked a few weeks ago trying to find a way to bleed the cooling system during a coolant flush, and just having the air intake tube unhooked from the intake resulted in the vehicle dying withing 10 seconds of it starting perfectly. It didn't give any error codes or other indications of problems, but just not having that air being pulled across the MAS told the engine to shut down. Airflow into the engine wasn't restricted at all, it was just the MAS tube being uncoupled from the intake. If the MAS was bad, or the wires to it were damaged and shorting peridocially it may behave exactly as you describe. Thoughts?
 
#13 ·
I would check the battery terminals,
try twisting them if they twist they are too loose.
put a few strands of copper wire between the post and terminal then tighten them,

Also check the hot wire supply to the alternator and starter, and the ground wires.
get a can of Deoxit 100 and remove every relay in the front and back fuse panels and put the deox 100 on the pins
 
#20 ·
If you want to get to the bottom of this you need to find someone with access to a Jaguar Land Rover SDD diagnostic system and request a full data code log.

I can guarantee that if the car is quitting as you describe, that fault(s) data is in the log, with the associated mileage when each of these events occurred.

If your mechanic is using a generic OBD II code reader you’re wasting their time and yours.

With reliance on the correct SDD equipment you will have the info you need to fix this.

Without that step you’ll just be gambling/guessing and installing an ever increasingly unnecessary list of parts in the hope you stumble on the problem.

Do yourself a favour and locate someone (or another JLR specialist) with the SDD diagnostic equipment.

Rob
 
#21 · (Edited)
All of those symptoms sound like fuel pump issues, you have a supercharged engine, so you have 3 fuel pumps. one low pressure in the tank, and two high pressure (read high dollar) ones at the engine. Sounds like you replaced the low pressure pump you may need to look at the two engine mounted ones. Heres the table for the P0627 and P008A codes;

286047


286048
286049


The P008A code does infer that its is an issue with the low pressure fuel pump, or the low fuel pressure sensor, which is under the car just infront of the drivers side (LHD) firewall near where the accelerator pedal is. The fuel pump driver module is under a cover, below the right rear seat.
 
#22 ·
Have you checked the fuel filler cap?
When your motor dies try removing the filler cap? If there is a sudden suction of air this could indicate that the tank isnt venting therefore when the cap is on and you are driving the fuel used is causing a vacuum in the tank until such a time the vacuum exceeds the fuel delivery and causes cavitation and low delivery to the pump(s) and eventually the engine will stall/stop. A blocked fuel filter could also give the same symptoms.
I have known this on other vehicle types.
Just a long shot and simple check!
Best of luck.
 
#23 ·
You all are and have been great. I will be applying these suggestions and relaying the results as they are attended to. Thank you so much, and I really am iglad I signed to this forum. I will try to make my site clearer and more detailed of a profile as suggested also... :)
 
#27 ·
You’re still just throwing parts at it while crossing your fingers hoping you’ll stumble on the cause of your problem. I have encountered failed LP sensors but usually these are associated with a non-restart/stall after a previous short trip and shutdown with a warm motor.

The vehicle will also run poorly for a few rpm’s then recover during a throttle off period while approaching a full stop etc.

You ought to consider installing a 12v test light in the low pressure fuel pump supply (under the rear seat) circuit which you can route to easily view next time the vehicle abruptly quits on you.

If it stays lit throughout the engine quitting, you’ll know it’s not a bad connector causing your problem. Based off your feedback thus far, my best guess is a bad pin connector in the right A-post area, fwiw.

Rob
 
#30 ·
WooHoo!!. It was a burnt wire on vehicle side where rear fuel pump connects. it was in the clip. needed another fuel pump to replace and fixed vehicle side of the wire. it was inside the clip, and extremely hard to detect. nobody sure how or why. theory is somebody did not unplug battery before replacing fuel pump or something...

Thanks all...

Now i have a tapping near timing chain, unrelated to rpm...

ps... I sent the 2 direct H/O injectors back and got my money back...
 
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