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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have decided that for preventive maintenance and to get rid of an annoying squeak, I am going to change out the front sway bar bushings and links on Reggie, the 2010 RRS SC.
At the same time I am going to replace the DSC filter and fluid.

My question is this, when replacing the sway bar bushings and links, where are the proper points to put the truck on jack stands. Since the wheel comes off to get to the links ramps are not an option. I have a 3 ton floor jack and stands that I use on everything from the 450SL to the Suburban. Where do you guys place the jack? Is ther ea place on the front subframe that is good for holding up the weight?

Are the jack stand points on the side rails? Are there reinforced places that are obvious?

Thanks!!
 

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Premium Member
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1,663 Posts
Uhhhh, on the frame rail. It's pretty obvious if you take a look under there. You'll also need a second jack to push up the arm to take the pressure off the sway bar when unbolting the links. Should be a 50mm Torx and I think it's torqued to 160 lb-ft or something crazy.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,270 Posts
Uhhhh, on the frame rail. It's pretty obvious if you take a look under there. You'll also need a second jack to push up the arm to take the pressure off the sway bar when unbolting the links. Should be a 50mm Torx and I think it's torqued to 160 lb-ft or something crazy.
Uhhh......What frame rail? It's unibody....
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,270 Posts
My bad! I was thinking of the FFRR.....I stand well and truly corrected!
Aplogies

Martin
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
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1,382 Posts
My bad! I was thinking of the FFRR.....I stand well and truly corrected!
Aplogies

Martin
See even moderators sometimes make mistakes and admit when they are wrong. Not me personally, but some of the other moderators do.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,270 Posts
Well I'm just human, unlike some of the other top notch moderators who are actually clones with an IQ in the 4 digits....:lol:
Never messed with a Sport, although that may change soon with a few guys asking me about sliders and bumpers etc. But they have the New Sport, so my knowledge may not be worth a crap then neither!

Martin
 

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Well I'm just human, unlike some of the other top notch moderators who are actually clones with an IQ in the 4 digits....:lol:
Never messed with a Sport, although that may change soon with a few guys asking me about sliders and bumpers etc. But they have the New Sport, so my knowledge may not be worth a crap then neither!

Martin
just make an explorer more expensive and harder to work on......

I looked a few years back at the new sport and the sliders from my point of view were a bad idea with how it was designed. I don't see the unibody having the strength needed in the mount areas outboard to withstand a good bump off a rock without it ripping the attaching hardware out of the aluminum, they would need tied inboard to main rails not just the rocker area and that's going to eat up a lot of real estate and lose ride height. Just my .02 and contribution to derailing this thread.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,270 Posts
ROFL
Well to continue the derailment....
I have made stuff for unibody's before, and didnt lose clearance. Obviously, anything that needs to be done in that area is going to require them being removed, but that isn't my problem now is it?:thumb:
As a not though, the pinch seam (if there is one) on the sills is normally strong as you need. That along with some tie in's to the "frame" will make it strong enough to be a jacking point. On bumpers, sliders, etc, I normally grab some DOM tubing and weld it to plates, that in turn bolt to the "frame".
Not seen one in person yet, so hard to get a design down, but it will be doable.

Martin
 

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agreed, I just over engineer things as in my area and demographic a lot fo chevy trucks I dealt with to repair came in with tubes jammed into doors that were attached to only the rocker pinch area and just gnarled the steel and ripped the anchor points out.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Duh! I LOOKED under the truck and saw these big beautiful frame rails running down the length! I guess I am used to my MB unibody cars where if you put the jack or jack stands in the wrong place you can get a nice dent or worse in the floor.

I have two three ton jacks and six stands, four for putting the '74 away for the winter and two for working on the cars. I will tackle this over the weekend. 50mm TORX? Iguess I get to buy a new wrench :)
I also saw that I can get the DSC plug (1.5 inch hex) off while the wheels are on the ground. Since I have two liters of fluid, how do I get the old stuff out? Is it like a power steering set up where you take off the return hose and stick it in a bucket while running the car and keeping the reservoir full?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I'm not exactly sure how you change the fluid, but I do know that you require some kind of switching device to operate the solenoids for bleeding the system.
I changed out my filter at 135,000 Kms and it was spotless. Waste of money and time.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mine looked like coffee! When I removed the plug about 1/2 a cup came out. That plus what I pulled from the reservoir gave me about a pint. I added new clean fluid to it. I figure every once in a while I will pull the fluid out of the reservoir and replace. eventually I will have new-ish fluid in there.

Big difference! I also pulled the fluid out of the power steering reservoir and replaced it
 

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