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Discussion Starter #1
Cheers All,

I finally decided to join after lurking on this forum for awhile. Done a ton of reading, searching posts, basically trying to absorb all that I can has helped me solve some of the more common issues that it has, thank you, This is my first Rover, and probably not the last. although mine is 13 YEARS OLD ALREADY, and has a few issues to sort out, I can see why they have such a devoted good bunch of people who love them! So this week I started doing the service that is recommended for those over 60,000 miles and also doing a brake job...so far so good. But I recently ran into a brain tease, and I could use all the help possible. It now seems as though it has developed the "BOOK" issue while the air con is on. Funny thing is though, as you start/stop the car over the course of the day, it comes and goes. When it is gone the air con works superbly, so I think I may have a intermittent ground or a relay overheating. I used the test procedure, and all the blend door, servos etc...etc.. work perfect. Any experience as to what the culprit might be?????? I'm scratching my head. I'm ready for school.:D
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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79 Posts
Hi

I am no expert, on my RR sometimes the book appears and goes away when one of my blower gets stuck. Do you feel any change in air flow. Can you elaborate what do you mean by A/c works great with no book?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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208 Posts
If it comes and goes it sounds like one of the more annoying faults! Do you know anyone with a code reader? If you do, or know a friendly auto shop with one that might be the best bet. Maybe get the codes read and then cleared, and next time it comes on you will know what the fault is. Otherwise you can end up chasing your tail for ages..... I speak from experience! Do the tests show any different results if you run them when the handbook symbol is on?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,216 Posts
Welcome!

Good to hear you've done some research and testing.

As Mattau mentioned, finding someone with diagnostics is the quickest way to pinpoint where the problem is. A couple that I have looked at with intermittent HEVAC book symbols have had a whole host of faults logged, even when things seem to work fine.

I clear the fault and then get the system running until the fault comes up again, and then re-read the codes to see what's triggered it.

The book can be thrown by something as simple as an intermittent temperature sensor - the heater core sensor for one is prone to going open circuit intermittently. This has been the cause of random book symbols on my RR, and one of the others I looked at. Aside from the fault code coming up, looking at the live data, the reading from the sensor compared to the others.

Hope this helps,

Marty

Sent from my S4
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks All, I appreciate it very much. to answer a couple of questions, when the symbol is present and on high fan, you can here it blowing quite hard under the passenger dash are. The flow from the vent's is quite weak, just a hair over a trickle but cold. I do not have a "scan tool" yet, but have been reading the forum concerning them. I will get one shortly, but in the meantime, I will try and get them cleared. When I do, I will report back with the appropriate codes. In the meantime, if you think of anything for me to try, shoot me an email. Thank's again oh yeah, when the symbol is gone, the hevac blows hard and is quite cold, almost to cold!! lol
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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208 Posts
So it does sound like there is a difference in performance book on/off. You might be able to work out some of the possible faults by doing the tests, changing direction/temperature etc for each side and comparing the differences. There is probably something similar on this forum, but when I was searching with my own problems I came across this.... http://landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-19/hevac-only-blows-cold-book-light-bad-blend-motors-something-else-22084/ Gives you an idea how to manually test most parts of the system. Reading codes will still be needed for things like the heater core sensor. As Marty says, it's pretty common. Mine was stuck either open or closed. The live data said it was reading something like 6,500 degrees celcius! Let us know how you get on. Matt
 

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take a rubber mallet and (with the vehicle off) whack the clutch on the compressor. rotate 90 degrees, whack again until you've gone all the way around.

I had this issue on my 95, and apparently it was caused by the clutch spacing to be too far out, and whacking it with the mallet moved it closer to the compressor, allowing the system to blow cold air again.

I'm not crazy. I swear it worked!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well good news and a little mixed in as well.
the A/C issue is now solved.!!!!! I found a wire under the passenger side dash was corroded at the connector. I repaired it and all is well. thanks to all for the help.

Now on with the bit of bad news. I replaced all brake pads as they were quite worn down. everything went great with no problems, pistons were free and not stuck, guide pins were re greased and work well. Got everything all buttoned up, started the car, and I now have(you guessed it) the three amigos!! GRRRRRRR........ The peddle is very spongy and one is able to press it to the floor. I never let the reservoir get low, and removed fluid before re-setting the pistons. Since I never broke into the system, I do not understand what could have possibly gone wrong. Unless this problem just happened to rear its ugly head at the most inopportune time. I checked the fuses and they are all good. I did some research about a possibly bad accumulator but I am not to sure I understand the symptoms. When I turn the key, should the pump run, and fill the accumulater? I will keep reading to find the cure. Any ideas anyone?
 
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