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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I've currently no condenser at the moment, I'm not fussed about a/c but I am fussed about the book symbol and the fact this stops the blend motors from working. I'd there any way to trick the system into thinking the a/c is either fully intact or completely not there? If love to have some heat right now!
Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I’ve not gone into playing with AC yet, but I did have a 97 that had book symbol, but I still had heat,, maybe it had a soft fault ?
My looking at it, is why should no condenser stop the motors,, I’m sure someone will pipe up with an answer soon
 

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You'll need to fool the HEVAC into thinking the AC system has pressure in it. Link pins 1 and 2 on the dual pressure switch (Green/White and White/Light Green wires) and leave the other two open circuit. That should make it think there is pressure in the system but ensure you always press the AC OFF button on the HEVAC or it will engage the clutch and destroy the compressor. No gas shouldn't stop the blend motors from working though unless you have another fault.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I've had no gas in my old one's aircon for years. Also have a short belt on it to bypass compressor.
Neither stop the blend motors from working, so if yours aren't then it's probably got a blend motor fault as well.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, I'd read that if the book was on (no a/c pressure in my case) then the heat control motor won't work. Where would i find the dual pressure switch? If i can fox that then it's at least one thing ruled out. I've got the dash out and can see an old motor still lurking in there and a new one screwed in place, so hoping it's ok! Not found where it plugs into the vehicle yet
 

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Bean is correct, there is nothing to fool. HvAC does a self check at each start up and if there is nothing wrong with the blend motors they should operate normally. you don;t need a different belt, simply unplug the compressor as the clutch freewheels most of the time anyway. You'll need to read the actual error codes to see what the blend issue is.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aha! Found the issue. The motor i thought had been left in is actually the heat control! Unscrewed and shoved right up behind the headlight switch. That'll be why it doesn't work!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll bet there's no error code for that ;) lol
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I'm stuck with heat on the drivers side and occasional sticking blend motor flaps and passenger side heater flap is now fully open using the 9v battery technique (it's on here somewhere!).

I also found the dash bolt that my wife dropped down the air vent last time - it fell out of the pipe :dance:

I am leaving it like this until the weather is dryer, I did the full dash out previously but I'm not looking to do that again in a hurry I can tell you.

I'm in Winsford if you need any help, not claiming to be knowledgable but I can help with problems I have had the experience and deep joy of fixing :lol:
 

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About bypassing the ac compressor when it is broken or something.
Would this work to fool the HEVAC there is enough refrigerant in the system or does the resistance of the coil in the compressor clutch also have a say in the matter?
ACbypass P38.jpg
 

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Never mind that last. That's a short circuit I drew.
There is a coil there and it draws a few amps at least.

I measured the coil on my old broken compressor. I don't know wether the coil is all right but it had a resistance of 5ohms. That equals to about 40W. Around 3A at 14V.
If that is correct then a power resistor might work.

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/5-40/5-ohm-40w-wire-wound-resistor/1.html
 
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