Range Rovers Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

This is my first post and I hoping to get some answers to a couple issues that I have come across with my 1994 Range Rover Classic SWB, and in return I'd be happy to try my best with helping others solve problems that have occurred on their Rovers.

The A/C, Heat, Powered Mirrors, Cigarette Lighter, and Heated Seats are not receiving power and they were not working when I bought the Rover. I used a test light and found that 4/6 fuses under the passengers seat are not getting power. My main concern is the heat because its winter! So I traced the wire all the way up to the kickplate on the passengers side, and found that it lead to a relay. I removed the relay and tested the wires. One was getting power (Light Green with a White Tracer) so I borrowed a relay that belongs to the powered seat for the drivers side because I knew it works, I plugged it in and got nothing. I tried all the fan settings a still got nothing. I made a jumper wire with two spade connectors and plugged it in to the wire with power and another wire (Pure White), and next thing I know... AIR! the fan was blowing perfectly, I'm quite happy but still confused as to why the relays aren't working??? The only other thing is that the fan only works if it is on III (Full Blast) If not then the fan will not turn on, maybe because the two other wires aren't getting power because the jumper was only to one other wire?

Great thanks to anyone who can give answers to these issues, and if its only an idea I'd be more than happy to give it a shot.
Thanks!
Nick
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
124 Posts
The only other thing is that the fan only works if it is on III (Full Blast) ...
Could be a fan resistor issue. The resistor is in your cowling on the passenger side. Nice writeup about it (link here).
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I also have a 1995 Classic, if thats the issue would I be able to use that one? I know the heat works fine on it. And could that be why when I have the relay plugged in it won't power the fan at all?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
124 Posts
I am not conversant with soft dash classics, but I am pretty sure the Heat/AC system is not the same as in the hard dash classics. So if I am wrong am sure someone will chip in and correct me, but I don't think your 1995 has the same ac fan resistor as your 1994.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took a quick look at my 95 and Im pretty sure they're not the same. But more importantly, do you know why when I plug a good relay in, it doesnt turn the fan on, but when I use a jumper the fan will turn on? Could the base be bad? Could one of the other wires cause the relay to not work?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
124 Posts
This is not authoritative, so take it as a suggestion - one of the symptoms of a bad ac fan resistor is exactly what you describe, the need to jumper. At least that is commonly so in GM cars. My own personal experience, I just went to the local car wrecker and got an ac fan resistor from a 1994 RRC for around $13 and once I fitted it in it worked like a charm. I am still using that resistor to date.

Beyond that, grab yourself a copy of the workshop manual, mine unfortunately is a 1986 - 1989 edition, and I would have been happy to scan and share air conditioning section but these early classics did not have AC fan resistors - so no troubleshooting or fault diagnosis specific to resistor in mine.

Try these see if you find anything useful (link)
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great, thanks. I already have half the dash apart so changing the resistor will be no problem, but before i pull it out and find another one. How can i go about testing it to see if it is truly no longer working
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
The hard dash Classic has fusible links in the loom which can rot away leaving you with power to some circuits and not to others. An easy check is to go along the dash fusebox with a meter. With the ignition on, you should find the same battery voltage on them all (or at least all of those that are powered) but on mine I found anything from full battery voltage down to 2.6V. The fusible links are in a cloth tube that lurks between the battery and header tank with the crimped joints under heat shrink tubing. Cut the heat shrink off, cut the crimps out and solder instead.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow. I'm going to bet that is whats wrong... I took a test like to the wire that pligs into the resistor and it doesnt get power with any fuse plugged in... It is rusty and is probably why the fan only works in one direction but it doesnt explain why the resistor isn't getting power unless I use a jumper
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll order the resistor later this afternoon. And I'll work on the fuseables then. I have a 1995 softdash which has a fuse box under the hood, the 95 runs like a dream but the rust is pretty serious... Should I look into swaping the fuse box in the 95 with the fuseables in the 94? I don't what to start screwing with the engine for obvious reasons but could I actually swap and install them sucessfully? Thanks
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Replacing the fusible links with fuses would be a good idea if you can find somewhere suitable to mount them. The main power cable from the battery goes into the cloth covered bit where it splits into about 8 lengths of fusible wire. These then join the different feeds to the rest of the car. Replacing them with a fusebox should be reasonably simple.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have plenty of space next to the coolant tank, should I buy a fuse box from a Disco? They're only around $40 and have more than enough fuses which will come in handy when I decide to add more accessories like Off-Road Lights that are on my 1995.

Although the thing is, I still don't think this is why the the relay isn't working. Maybe a bad ground? I had hoped to work on it today (Thanksgiving) and over the weekend but the weather decided otherwise. I'm going to try and give it a shot anyways today and trace the wires. Any other ideas?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So the Resistor arrived today so I installed it and now I am getting all fan speeds.  I'm so glad that I already had the dash apart because it made changing it so much easier... <br><br>Problem is... I still can't use a relay, the only way the resistor is getting power is if I use a jumper.  Could I be using the wrong relay? a bad ground? I'm certain its not the fuse-able links.  I at a complete loss as to what to do now.  I really need to have everything fixed by the first week of January. Ideas???
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top