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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99' 4.0 with the bosch system, I bought it from someone who bailed out when his local mechanic could not figure out why it would not start. Now I can see why. I have already been into the system with a Rovacom lite and cleared the immobilser code that was present, I have syncronised the remotes to the keys and I am still not getting any spark at the plugs, though the coils are getting 12v via the relay and a ground from the Becm with key in position II, I found that the crank position sensor had been installed with the spacers in the wrong location, I replaced it with a new one and corrected the spacers. When I check for a signal coming out the CPK, there still is no signal. I should be able to read a low ac voltage when cranking, but have none. Any help would be appreciated. I also noticed that the previous mechanic has destroyed the knock sensor when replacing the starter, so it is diconnected on the rt side, but I don't think this would prevent it from starting. Thanks:
 

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So the engine turns over with the key, but you don't have a spark - is this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes that is correct, it cranks, but no spark. After taking an extensive look through the the shop manual and the electrical schematics I believe what has happened is due to the battery going dead the ECM has lost it's fault codes and abaility to read the reference point of the flywheel via the crank sensor and since I have replaced it with a new one the adaptive values need to be reset and the default settings that are normally saved in the ECM when the vehicle is turned off. Any thoughts would be helpful.
 

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The knock sensor should not cause the car to not run, but you might notice a few more knocks ;) . Are you also getting fuel? Do you see "alarm fault" in the message center? The battery going dead shouldn't cause the ECM to get screwed up. In some cases it wouldn't even reset the adaptive values. Although it might cause a check engine light to be reset... not sure though :think: .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
according to the rave manual, the Motronic ECM has a volatile memory, meaning once the power supply is lost, all stored data from DTC's and default values are all lost. The Ecm can get of sync with the becm and the whole thing needs a reset, which I tried but this was prior to changing the crank sensor. Still no signal checking directly at the crank sensor plug. Anyone ever tried to read the sensor output on a multi-meter? I should get a small ac current 1-2vac when cranking and I get nothing. Anyone know the definitive answer on where the 18mm spacers go, on the outside of the sensor or between the sensor and bell housing?
 

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Although what you are discussing is unknown territory I do remember reading that the crank sensor pin sits a certain distance from the machined spaces on the flywheel. That distance escapes me at the moment but when you have it the spacers you have may or may not be appropriate to make the proper gap. Detail should be in the manual. The good thing is that the "teeth" are machined on the bosch vs welded on gems. I look forward to a happy resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the feedback, but the Rave manual I have on CD only states in general terms to be sure and use the 18mm shims to attain the proper gap for the Crank Sensor, but does not incicate what that gap is or whether the shims go on either side of the Sensor. I have tried it both ways and still no start, and no signal at the sensor. If anybody knows this, or how to actually test the sensor output, it would be helpful.
 

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I reread the manual and as you say no gap is given. It does say that the kit ckp sensor kit comes with different spacers so it shoud mention the proper gap but maybe you did not get the info. Manual does say that adaptive values have to be reset when sensor fitted or flywheel is removed. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this point.
 

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So Ken, what was the resolution here?
 

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Ken what was the remedy?
 

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I'd like to know - I bought the truck from him! ;)
 

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I've test the cks by moving something metallic - like a screwdriver - carefully but fast-ish in and out of the range of the sensor this will induce a voltage - this doesn't prove it's within spec. but shows it's at least connected and working.
 
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