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Discussion Starter #1
Everything has been great with the 98 RR for at almost 2 years, but today it died twice.

We left about 10am to go to town in 42 degree weather. We also noticed the heater didn't work very well. We get about 5 miles from the house and the RR sputtered and began to die. As I looked down at the dash the temp gauge red lite was on and the temp was hot.
I pulled over and cut the ignition.
Five years ago I replaced the water pump and the thermostat when the pump failed.
I called a friend a he brought me three gallon of water. After waiting an hour I filled up the radiator and headed for home 5 miles away.
The temp gauge was normal all the way home until I pulled in under the carport, the engine sputtered and died again, but at least the RR was home.
It's still pouring down rain so it will be a few days before I can check the water level.

No antifreeze smell inside, no watercame out as I put water in 5 miles away.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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343 Posts
No heat. Hmmm sounds like a failed clogged heater core. Or an airlock. But if you haven’t opened the system it shouldn’t be air locked. I assume because you added water the level was low?
if it got low enough to airlock the system.... when was the last Complete coolant flush?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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There is a failure somewhere, remember if the water is leaving the engine, the stat has nothing to read from, so the engine gets extremely hot before the gauge goes up I’d say head gasket failure is the favourite, change the core plugs while it’s apart to be on the safe side. Hopefully you haven’t done any damage to the bottom end ��
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
42C is very hot.. assume you are in the southern hemisphere then.
Had a p38 radiator die om me twice at 40 C they usually burst at the top.
You didn't say if it is diesel or v8...
Diesels get the self dismantled impellor syndrome. . Means you will find your water pump . impellor gets unstuck only when the engine is hot.
Which gets worse in your hot climate
Here we won't get 42 till end of February but I usually stock up on water pumps and vicious couplers in advance.
V8s here often suffer from bad viscos. Did you feel the resistance of your fan when the engine was hot?
No fan no cool...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem turned out to be a heater hose. The "Y" hose that connects to the heater core, the radiator and the water reservoir.

I've got a new one ordered and should be here next week.


It's been raining here for several days and will rain until the part arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Still over heating after new hose. No leaks but now have cylinder misfire code on Check engine lite.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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496 Posts
no mention of the thermostate that's where I would start , also check fuel pressure 38 psi as a lean motor will run hot or a bad earth . simple things first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I changed the thermostat a few years back and found the trouble was the water pump.
I put the old thermostat in the new ones box.
Tonight I put the old one back in. Tomorrow I'll run around close in the neighborhood to see what happen.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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are you saying that you have a cracked head possibly . could block up your heater core?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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771 Posts
Would anyone use Barsleak Head Fix?
In my opinion these products rarely work, and as mentioned can cause radiator matrix’s to block up.
if it did work I wouldn’t give it long till it goes wrong, normally when you really need your car.
 
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