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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey there all!

been lurking a while as I get our 97 4.6 back up to snuff, thanks for all of the info you have provided!
I'm hitting the stage where the engine is coming out for a serious bit of R&R. At 214k miles, we have to put a full dose of oil in over a 300mile trip.

My issue is this. I just don't have the room to pull the engine, AND keep the rig in the garage after, not if I want to actually have room to tear the motor down and rebuild it.
I was going to support the bellhousing with straps (maybe make a quick steel/wood brace to hook into the motor mounts), and then hook a "tow bar" to the hitch in the back and tow it in/out of my shop with our plow truck.

Thoughts on this? I know i must keep the torque converter held securely into the bellhousing (plywood bolted across belhousing?), will a short flat-tow like this hurt anything?
Really really don't want to park the truck 1/2 in/out during the entire repair.

any help/suggestions would be very welcome. (anyone around bangor maine that has shop space and would like to have a RR parked there for a little while? :) )

Thanks in advance all!

Nate
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Before pulling the engine, I assume you have a working set of electrics? In that case, fit a fuse into position 11 in the underseat fusebox which will put the transfer box into neutral so you can safely tow it as far as you like. On a Classic that had to be moved with no engine we used a lump of 2x2 timber that sat across the chassis rails and was bolted to a couple of the bellhousing bolt holes. Two more wood blocks were screwed to the cross piece that were pressing on the torque converter to hold that in place.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Before pulling the engine, I assume you have a working set of electrics? In that case, fit a fuse into position 11 in the underseat fusebox which will put the transfer box into neutral so you can safely tow it as far as you like. On a Classic that had to be moved with no engine we used a lump of 2x2 timber that sat across the chassis rails and was bolted to a couple of the bellhousing bolt holes. Two more wood blocks were screwed to the cross piece that were pressing on the torque converter to hold that in place.
PERFECT! Thank you!

I thought there was something like that in here, but for the life of me I couldn't dredge it up out of the depths of my mind.
I highly appreciate it!

-Nate
 
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