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Discussion Starter #1
First time poster!
I have an issue with my 95 SWB dash brake light. Any time I depress the brake pedal the light illuminates and then as soon as I release it the brake light goes off. I topped off the fluid and still have the same issue. Brakes feel the same as they always have. Its just weird that as soon as I touch the pedal the light goes on then immediately goes off once I release. I ordered a new brake light switch because it was cheap and am waiting for it to be mailed.
Anyone experience a similar problem and find a solution?
Thanks
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Sounds like your abs pump is having trouble maintaining minimum pressure when your applying braking force.

From the RAVE:

The warning light situated in instrument binnacle
indicates insufficient pressure in system and/or low
fluid level. Warning light will illuminate when ignition is
switched ON as part of initial bulb check, and when
parking brake is applied.
If pressure in hydraulic system is lower than cut-in
pressure for warning light, light will illuminate. When
light is on hydraulic pump will run. Note, if light
remains illuminated after bulb check and releasing
park brake, DO NOT drive vehicle until light
extinguishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your help. Do you know if replacing the pump is the solution or is there a more cost effective option?
 

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As the brake pedal feels the same wouldn't that indicate the pump is working but the accumulator is failing? If the accumulator is weak it wouldn't be able to fully maintain full pressure at braking so the light comes on. The pump repressurizes the accumulator and the light goes out. If the pump were weak there should still be pressure in the accumulator for at least one braking applications before the light came on.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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217 Posts
I don't have my owner's manual handy - is the light for the brake pad wear sensor separate from the brake warning light on a '95?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As the brake pedal feels the same wouldn't that indicate the pump is working but the accumulator is failing? If the accumulator is weak it wouldn't be able to fully maintain full pressure at braking so the light comes on. The pump repressurizes the accumulator and the light goes out. If the pump were weak there should still be pressure in the accumulator for at least one braking applications before the light came on.
This makes sense to me. Also when I drive the car, turn it off to get gas and then start driving again Ill often times not have brakes initially and the brake pedal sort of chatters as it pressurizes. Do you know of a accumulator DIY?
 

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Since you have a 95 directions should be in RAVE. Short version is depressurize the brakes by stepping on the brake pedal 20-30 times with the ignition off, go have a cup of coffee then press the pedal a few more times just to make sure. Disconnect the two lines from the accumulator. Wrap the end of the lines just removed. unbolt the accumulator assembly from the inner fender and remove.

When reassembling be sure to fit new sealing washers.

I've read there is no need to bleed but have never trusted that idea. It's a pain to bleed the ABS system but it is worth the time to ensure you have fresh fluid and perfect brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Since you have a 95 directions should be in RAVE. Short version is depressurize the brakes by stepping on the brake pedal 20-30 times with the ignition off, go have a cup of coffee then press the pedal a few more times just to make sure. Disconnect the two lines from the accumulator. Wrap the end of the lines just removed. unbolt the accumulator assembly from the inner fender and remove.

When reassembling be sure to fit new sealing washers.

I've read there is no need to bleed but have never trusted that idea. It's a pain to bleed the ABS system but it is worth the time to ensure you have fresh fluid and perfect brakes.
Looks straight forward on Rave (just downloaded). Thanks a ton for your help. $160 or so is not cheap but brakes are essential.
 
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