RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I'm troubleshooting my LWB as twice now, while driving, the engine cut-out without throwing any codes or providing any warning. The two common things are
  • I was turning to the right. First time I was changing lanes and the second time I was turning into a parking lot
  • The truck will start right back up and continue on like nothing has ever happened
A difference between the first even and the second event was that the first time, the engine just cut out. No questions. The second time, the engine tried to keep running. When I put it in neutral I had zero throttle response but it was trying rather hard to keep itself alive. I opted to turn the truck off the second time and it was back to normal afterwards.

The TPS has been replaced with a working unit and grounds are good. Again, no codes or CEL are thrown. This screams electrical issue and so far my ideas are:
  • theft-system is randomly engaging causing an ignition inhibitor to activate. (I'm having central lock issues due to the passenger side door lock so I wouldn't be too surprised if that's the case. )
  • It could also be something to do with the gear selector/ neutral safety switch, although, that wouldn't explain why I'm able to start the truck right up.
  • Fuel relay randomly cutting out?
  • Ignition cables
Questions:
  1. With these symptoms, what would you be checking for first?
  2. Has this happened to anyone else before? What did you do to fix it?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
217 Posts
I would start with a fuel pressure check. Pressure should get up to around 35 psi when you turn on the ignition switch, and stay there when you start the engine. I've had similar issues before to your second scenario where it would stall out at idle. Turning the ignition off and back on would re-prime the pump and it would run OK for a while. I put the pressure gauge on it and the low pressure was obvious, even though the truck ran.

If pressure check is good, then look at connections on fuel pump and work your way back. Since it happens when you're turning maybe there's a loose wire along the way, but the second scenario sounds more likely to be the pump.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would start with a fuel pressure check. Pressure should get up to around 35 psi when you turn on the ignition switch, and stay there when you start the engine. I've had similar issues before to your second scenario where it would stall out at idle. Turning the ignition off and back on would re-prime the pump and it would run OK for a while. I put the pressure gauge on it and the low pressure was obvious, even though the truck ran.

If pressure check is good, then look at connections on fuel pump and work your way back. Since it happens when you're turning maybe there's a loose wire along the way, but the second scenario sounds more likely to be the pump.
Good Idea - I'll check that tonight
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Doesn't a '95 also have the safety shut off switch for the fuel pump too? That would be another good place to check.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
49 Posts
I had a similar problem that turned out to be a sporadic short from a loose connection at the starter. I suggest inspecting all ignition wires and connections and the same with the alternator/battery wiring.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Doesn't a '95 also have the safety shut off switch for the fuel pump too? That would be another good place to check.
Are you referring to the inertia switch? If it is activated there is supposed to be a 30 second delay once the ignition is turned off before it can be re-enabled. It is a bridging piece between the fuel-pump-relay and fuel-pump-module though.

Is there a simple test procedure for that?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Shot in the dark but here it goes. Do you have a genuine dizzy cap? I had a OEM one installed that I bought from * and it actually made the vehicle stall while idling and pulling into my drive way. I bought a genuine one from Rovers North and I haven't had a problem since. If that's not the case then its crucial that you try to narrow it down a little
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
129 Posts
Similar problem on my 1994 LWB was the MAF valve. No need to replace. Cleaned it up and no problems for two years.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
146 Posts
I too had a similar problem on my 95lwb. turned out to be a loose connection on the connector at the fuel tank. pulled it off, cleaned and straightened the pins; solved.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the suggestions - Turns out that I didn't have fuel-pressure tools at my arsenal, however, I did go through and double-check the ignition system. Ignition cables were loose at the dizzy and have since been reset. I haven't had a repeat of this issue since. Hopefully it doesn't return!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top