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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I recently bought this range rover and on the drive home, the temperature started to rise.

I pulled over, the overflow tank was bubbling (which, I'm assuming most would say head gasket), but everything else seems normal. Good power, no hesitation when it starts, no signs of coolant in the oil.

Yesterday, I had some time to work on it. The thermostat clicked open and the coolant went in, but after a while of sitting, the temperature started to rise, but I heard no clicking of the thermostat.

Is this JUST a thermostat, or am I missing something else? Air in the system?

Thanks!
-Daniel
 

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When a head gasket blows it blows to combustion, not crankcase. There will be no coolant in the oil.

If you have in anyway opened the cooling system working on it is is very likely you have air in the system. Any air in the system means it can not come up to pressure and it overheats. If I were in your shoes I would start over with filling and purging. Make sure your heater is set to full hot.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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266 Posts
Hi!

I recently bought this range rover and on the drive home, the temperature started to rise.

I pulled over, the overflow tank was bubbling (which, I'm assuming most would say head gasket), but everything else seems normal. Good power, no hesitation when it starts, no signs of coolant in the oil.

Yesterday, I had some time to work on it. The thermostat clicked open and the coolant went in, but after a while of sitting, the temperature started to rise, but I heard no clicking of the thermostat.

Is this JUST a thermostat, or am I missing something else? Air in the system?

Thanks!
-Daniel
If you are still experiencing issues after bleeding the system - I would replace the viscous clutch on the fan. The thermostat is inexpensive – why not replace both as preventive maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great! I'll do that this weekend.

Also, I'm having a hard time finding DIY's for the 4.2l motor. Is the 3.9l similiar to all the procedures?

Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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23 yrs old cooling system with unknown / un-divulged maintenance record, if I was you I would begin with removing the radiator and having it rodded or replaced not flushed. more than likely it is lack of fluid circulation/flow.
remove your grill and use a garden hose to flush the a/c condenser vanes in order to establish and maintain proper airflow.
with proper air and fluid flow you can redirect your efforts to locate any further cooling issues. you cannot simply jump to a conclusion of major repair with out establishing basics.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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222 Posts
Absolutely agree with this.
You may end up having to get the rad done/replaced anyway, but KNOWING it's good eliminates it as a possible issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Radiator, water pump, thermostat, and fluids shipped/on the way. I understand where everyone is coming from. Peace of mind will also be nice, too.

Still, am I losing something here? I'm finding the repair manuals on here up to year 91 or 93? Are they the same up to 95 as well?

Thanks!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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technically yes, but look into discovery1 as it has much more in common with the 95 classic.
 

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Yes indeed you are losing something...:lol: See the RAVE Manual Download stickie above. The first link provides the dealer's multimodel shop guide. In the Classic section there is a manual for 87-93. There is also 95 to end of run production. Also included is the full 95 ETM, it includes full schematics, connector pinouts, photos of each connector location, all ground locations and all wiring splices.

These links do not require an install as the files is a simple .pdf file structure. Click rave-lr.pdf once downloaded and you are set to go on any computer. Apple iStuff is not an issue, just have a .pdf reader.

Whoops...cross post. Mechanically Disco is very similar. However the 95 classic was a very different beast. No need to guess if a Disco manual directive is the same when there are dedicated 95 Classic manuals.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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137 Posts
I just went through a major overheating hassle with my95lwb. Seems like you bought everythingyou could, but still don't know what's wrong. Start simple, change the thermostat for the correct one for a 4.2. make sure the fans are working. Burp the system, twice. Test the radiator fan; stiff when hot, easyspin when cold. Did you buy a plasticradiator or a real one? Don't mess withthe radiator until you prove out the other items.

Old rule of thumb: hot at speed=radiator-thermostat. Hot while sitting=fan, pump, thermostat.

Good luck
geneo
 

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A plasticradiator? Like, a plastic radiator? No. Ha! My old jeep had some overheating issues too and the previous owner put a plastic one in. It was junk. Learned that lesson (that I didn't have to financially pay for, but paid for in other ways).
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I've seen the phrase 'burp the system' on a couple of threads - what does that mean in reality? How do you do it?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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it means removing the air that may be in your cooling system when replacing coolant by forcing it out the highest point in the system. search over heating on this fourm.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Thanks. I've just looked in my 1990-94 WSM and it simply gives the drain and refill procedure - I forgot the search function!!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If you follow the refill procedure correctly, you will have covered burping the system.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I had a similar issue with my 3.5. it wound up being the water pump gasket, or the pump itself. I replaced both. Air was entering the system there, but coolant was not leaking out.
 

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I just went through a major overheating hassle with my95lwb. Seems like you bought everythingyou could, but still don't know what's wrong. Start simple, change the thermostat for the correct one for a 4.2. make sure the fans are working. Burp the system, twice. Test the radiator fan; stiff when hot, easyspin when cold. Did you buy a plasticradiator or a real one? Don't mess withthe radiator until you prove out the other items.

Old rule of thumb: hot at speed=radiator-thermostat. Hot while sitting=fan, pump, thermostat.

Good luck
geneo
from experience I tend to partially disagree on these rule and suggestion. a radiator is a heat exchanger the more efficiency built into it better outcomes. thus, aluminum transfers heat better, clean passages better circulation, clean fins and good fans better airflow all equates to better cooling and of course a good working thermostat.
cooling issues on a vehicle can be difficult, frustrating and expensive to resolve. much more so on a vintage vehicle with out maintenance records or proper maintenance.
often when temps rise it is because of the engine is creating more heat than it can disperse, this can be due mechanical concerns, among a few the ingress of hot combustion gasses to the cooling system.
I could go on for a couple of pages on this subject but we will be hijacking the original post, as well as introduce fear on anyone with similar concerns.
 
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