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Hello, I have been having a lot of issues starting my 95 4.0 recently. This is a problem that has been off and on for a few years, mostly during colder weather strangely although now it has stopped working completely. I think it may be electronic but I'm also thinking it could be the starter has just been going out for awhile. Anyways I just wanted some input before I actually went down and pulled the starter off to test just in case anyone had any more insight for me.

I put the key in the ignition, turn the ignition on, everything electronic clicks on ok, get a lot of warning messages just for the windows not being set (They do not set anymore). There is no fault messages though or any engine disabled messages as I have had those before. I turn the key to try to turn it over and nothing happens, the car doesn't even try.

Oddly enough (and this may be able to diagnose the problem), I used to be able to pull off the battery terminals to cut power to the engine, would wait 30 seconds, put the terminals back on and the car would turn over right away. I'm not great at diagnosing car symptoms but I can change anything out myself that I need.

The last few times before it just stopped trying to turn over, the car would struggle for a second or two longer and then would start up instead of just right away which is why I think maybe the starter. I've had problems with the battery in the past being drained especially in the cold weather so I disconnected the RF antenna and always make sure it is fully charged so it has the amps to start and I don't think that is the problem. I have not tried cleaning all the battery terminals but they look ok, maybe it is one of the cables also that goes to the starter or something. One other thing that is weird I thought I would mention since it may, or may not, have anything to do with this but when the car is in park, the ignition is in, and I press the brake pedal there is a knocking sound from right underneath the console where the window controls are; one knock for every time I press the pedal down, but it did not happen when it was driving, only in park. Maybe one of the "switches" or "contacts" I guess you could call it in the shifter is out so the car doesn't know it is in park to start, but I have tried to turn it over in neutral to no avail. I was also thinking it could be the ignition assembly itself or maybe in a long shot I have read about the fuel pump and engine timing being off...but I think with the symptoms I've had it probably is something simpler. I'm hoping it's not electrical as I am more mechanically inclined. Anyways, I thought it was weird that I could pull the terminals off and then it would start normally up until a bit ago so maybe that is a tell tale sign that someone could help me with.

I appreciate any and all help and comments that you have for me, and thanks!
 

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Sounds like dirty cables. I would guess by now that your battery is toast as well. Once you have a battery and charging system at 100% you'll be able to set your windows again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick response guys.

rrtoadhall said:
Sounds like dirty cables. I would guess by now that your battery is toast as well. Once you have a battery and charging system at 100% you'll be able to set your windows again.
I think you could be right, my father who is in his 90's now and has dealt with almost every car problem known to mankind suggested that the cables could be an underlying problem to this. The terminals on the actual battery are covered and clean as a whistle, but the ground cable as well as the power cable from the fuse box to the engine looks dirty at the connection points and I'm sure the one on the starter isn't great either. I'll probably start there, I have a week before I'm actually at the car though as I am out of town on business so I wanted to get as much input beforehand as possible. I have tested the alternator when the car would still start but was going out and it was testing fine, giving a lot of charging power. The battery is definitely ok, it is brand new and I've already taken it in to the local autozone where it is under a 3 year warranty (They have replaced it for me before, you are right though this Range has killed a few batteries before oddly) to get tested just to be sure. I've had a bad battery in the past but for now I am 100% sure the battery is not it. The cables could be a likely culprit though.

kmagnuss said:
What does it do when you try to jumpstart it?
Absolutely nothing. I actually got stranded at the grocery store when it decided to go out, one minute the car was working and when I was about to head home it just didn't start. I called a friend out to give me a jump, did the standard procedures, and nothing happened when I engaged the ignition just like now.


I still would like to get as much input as possible, does anyone think this could be the starter or is it really obvious when that is going out on a car such as this? Again though, since it would suddenly start for awhile after disconnecting the terminals and letting it sit before putting them back on, the cables sound plausible.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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My situation could have been different than yours, but when my battery ate the deuche it wouldn't jumpstart either. Plus it was about 5 degrees when it happened.
 

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Does anyone know how this turned out?I just started having this same problem with my 96RR about an hour ago!!!!!Im ready to sell it and I've only owned it for a little longer than a month!
 

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When you turn it on, does you check engine light come on? I had this happen on my 98 and it ended up that I had a relay that was cracked in the fuse box under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
nelson845 said:
Does anyone know how this turned out?I just started having this same problem with my 96RR about an hour ago!!!!!Im ready to sell it and I've only owned it for a little longer than a month!
Just to give you an update, again I have not been able to do any work on it, I'm currently out of town until Friday night on business so I just wanted to have this topic going for a week so I could get some input before I get home. I think the all of the battery/power cables from the battery and starter could be the plausible problem like rrtoadhall suggested and I have heard that from my father also. Coming from two different sources and especially since rrtoadhall knows his stuff, I will start there. It would be the easiest fix at least so you may want to start there like I will. I will keep updating this topic with my findings, I have really enjoyed my 4.0 during the few years I have owned it so don't give up and sell it yet! It has done everything from fording a flooded freeway to get me home when no one else would dare cross to serving me well out in the boonies. I will say this though, these are very high maintenance cars so just realize that in advance. I like to use it as a daily driver as it is just too much fun to drive so it gets wear and tear easily. This is not the first problem I have had, but it has been the most mysterious.

mohrj said:
When you turn it on, does you check engine light come on? I had this happen on my 98 and it ended up that I had a relay that was cracked in the fuse box under the hood.
Well, I don't remember off hand when it was running since it has been over 3 months (I have had absolutely no time until not to work on it until now) if the engine light was on, but it has been on in the past during these problems. That may be another possible idea to check into. When I first got the car the entire fuse box was in really bad shape so I replaced the entire assembly and I think all of the relays inside it. It should not be in bad condition as it is only a few years old, I think I've tried swapping out a couple of relays from non critical components to the ones that have engine or ignition diagrams in the fuse box just to see but to no avail unless there are many relays that are bad in there.The fuse box underneath the passenger seat is slightly damaged...do you know off hand if there are any fuses in there that would have an effect or possibly prevent the engine from starting?

I think I will start with the cables, give them a good cleaning or if they look bad enough just replace them and work from there. Again though I really appreciate all input as you guys know a lot more than me! 8)
 

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It's been dead for 6 days now.So far I've checked the starter(good)....battery(good)....relays(good)....solenoid(good).No alarm fault on panel.The only fault's it's giving me on the display other than windows not set are....EAS Manual and airbag????All seems to be fine,but engine still wont crank when I turn the key.I ordered the Sync-mate from BBS,I figure if that does'nt work at least I'll have it when eventually I do need it!.....F.Y.I. Since I've owned this RR(2 month),I have never used the key fob to lock/unlock it.I always used the key because of dead remote batterys?(which I replaced but was never able to sync to vehicle). :think:
 

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I also forgot to mention that my 96P38 was already ''castrated''(coil converted)when I purchased it and after joining this forum I've decided I would like to return it to air suspention eventually!Is it possible or has the damage been done and thats it.Any input much appreciated. :think:
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Your eas is saying that due to the coils. The ecm plug has either had jumper wires put into it, or has a gadget plugged into it.
As far as restoring it, that all depends on what is missing and how far you wish to go with it. It could be anything from 4 new airbags etc, to a full system ( bags, valve block, driver, compressor, ecm).
When you find out, shoot Scotty a message as he can get good used parts for cheap :thumb:

Martin
 

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I've had a similar starting problem. When the temperature is below freezing, the engine makes no attempt to fire, no clicking, no nothing. The entire electrical system works and I have no faults. I turn the key rapidly from OFF to START 10-15 times and then she fires right up. I tried to leave the key in the START position for 20-30 seconds but that does not work to expedite the process. All of my grounds are clean and making good contact. My starter seems strong and the relays have been replaced. I'm thinking the ignition switch or the solenoid in the starter. But don't know where to start.

charliet
 

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The fuse box will take all of about 10 minutes to replace as they should come with new fuses installed. THe plugs on the underside are colour coded and can only fit in one place so there is no fear of putting one in the wrong slot. Moving your relays over is super easy as the box has colour coding painted on for the relays as well.
 

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Did you try the rapid key motion from OFF to START repeatedly?
 

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Hi

The gear selector switch send a code to the BECM. In the small lcd display under the speedometer you are able to see in what gear the car is. I assume this signal comes from the becm and is it displays N or P it should be ok.

I hope that someone who as had problems with this can confirm this.

Regards

Jos
 

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Jos Geuze said:
Hi

The gear selector switch send a code to the BECM. In the small lcd display under the speedometer you are able to see in what gear the car is. I assume this signal comes from the becm and is it displays N or P it should be ok.

I hope that someone who as had problems with this can confirm this.

Regards

Jos
If that is correct,then the switch should be fine,I do get the "P" in the display when in park.
 
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