RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm basically fishing for opinions about how reliable long-term the Pertonix systems are. For my immediate problem I suspect the dizzy, because the symptoms seem consistent with an ignition problem (no fire when trying to start), and originally the shop said the fuel system was working fine.

About 8 mo ago I had a shop install a Pertronix dizzy and coil, after the truck died and would not fire. Shop diagnosed the issue was a bad dizzy, which didn't surprise me at all because I re-built the original and had continuing issues with the igniter/amplifier, and that 8-pt internal wheel and air gap.

So they installed a Pertronix and coil, and the thing purred like a kitten thru continuous driving for 6 months.

Then it did it again.....would NOT fire at a parking space after having been driven to that spot earlier in the day. Suspected the dizzy, called a tow truck the next day, and while waiting for the tow I tried to start it, and BAM!, it fired right up like nothing was wrong! Towed it to the shop anyway, but as you can imagine, they said "Great, nothing is wrong, might've just gotten a little moisture under the dizzy cap, blah,. blah..."

That was 2 mo ago. Yesterday it did it AGAIN. As of today it's still sitting in the parking lot where it wouldn't start. I'll go and try to start it today, might start, might not. If it DOES start, should I take it to the shop and demand (under warranty) that they replace the defective dizzy/coil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I had the exact issue which I seem to have sorted with a Red rotor from the UK. The Lucas rotors are now re-boxed junk. They would arc through the plastic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
In addition to the above advice, when it doesn't go put a screwdriver to the fuel tank filler and your ear to the other end to check the fuel pump is running, you'll hear it straight away if you get someone to turn on the power without cranking. It should go off after about five seconds if all is working correctly.

Any intermittent running of pump you'd need to check relay as first resort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The truck "fixed" itself AGAIN. Went to it today (24 hrs after no-start) and it fired right up.
Fuel pump and relay were replaced maybe 10k miles ago, when this happened and I had the Pertronix installed, shop said my fuel system was 100%. I really doubt a pump failure now would be this intermittent, I drove the thing 40 miles today after it started, with several shut-downs and re-starts.

I've read of this "suddenly wouldn't start....then suddenly it would" in SO many various forms, I was just hoping this once I could nail it to the recent aftermarket dizzy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
As you state, frustrating not being able to pinpoint it. I feel you need to do some on the spot investigation when it's happening to isolate fuel from ignition systems first.

Fuel pump, as you feel, unlikely to fail, but it's the relay I'd be suspicious of. Mine did it a couple of times before I swapped that to effect a complete cure. One example was drove 2 miles to fuel station, filled and payed, no start! Pushed it out of the way, nearly flattened battery trying, called rescue that said 45min to arrive, tried again before they got there and it fired straight away. Cancelled rescue then but did it again when visiting friends, they lent us their car to cone home that night, returned in morning, you guessed it fired straight away. Ultimately this was the relay intermittent. Checking to hear the pump will tell you straight away if it's playing ball or not and at least allow elimination of that sector.

You can bypass the relay and the ecu switching to help you out by making a small jumper for the fuse box, going from cigarette lighter supply side to fuel pump supply side in fuse box. This will give you a straight switching of the fuel pump downstream of both logic and relay to turn on and run the pump as soon as lighter circuit goes live with switch on. If that runs reliably you'll know what area to fix.

Ignition, if it does not start, take the king lead from distributor cap and crank it with that lead held near earthing to see if you have spark.

Both of these test are effectively a rough sort of systems to see if either fuel or sparks are absent, that's all. But it'll put you on the right track for ultimate diagnosis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
803 Posts
The truck "fixed" itself AGAIN. Went to it today (24 hrs after no-start) and it fired right up.
Fuel pump and relay were replaced maybe 10k miles ago, when this happened and I had the Pertronix installed, shop said my fuel system was 100%. I really doubt a pump failure now would be this intermittent, I drove the thing 40 miles today after it started, with several shut-downs and re-starts.

I've read of this "suddenly wouldn't start....then suddenly it would" in SO many various forms, I was just hoping this once I could nail it to the recent aftermarket dizzy.
Your truck is possessed...
And the demon is messing with your head....
Recommend sprinkling holy water liberally over the motor ..., run around the truck three times....
Scream loudly....bang your head on the hood
Pull out three hairs and burn them in a ash can....

That should do it
It won’t fix anything
But might make ya feel good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You can bypass the relay and the ecu switching to help you out by making a small jumper for the fuse box, going from cigarette lighter supply side to fuel pump supply side in fuse box. This will give you a straight switching of the fuel pump downstream of both logic and relay to turn on and run the pump as soon as lighter circuit goes live with switch on. If that runs reliably you'll know what area to fix.

Ignition, if it does not start, take the king lead from distributor cap and crank it with that lead held near earthing to see if you have spark.
Both of these tips are Gold, Jerry, GOLD! Thanks for laying that out clearly, I'm printing it and putting it with the manual in the truck.

BUT, I think I can ask everyone to STAND DOWN for now, I think I found the problem, and my 18-yr-old kid wouldn't know to check this:

It's a finicky/worn/sloppy shifter PARK switch. The no-start happened for me this morning, and I wiggled and pushed the shift lever forward a bit, and it started.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
126 Posts
I have experienced a flakey connector on top of my fuel pump. sometime it lost good connection. final fix was to slightly twist each pin on the plug; then put it back together again. never had to go back!!. try it, it's free. 1995 LWB.

geneo
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
81 Posts
The Pertronix Flamethrower dizz did not work with our 91. Not at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I was very hesitant to try the Pertronix unit because of less-than-convincing testimony on this site. That's why I screwed around with stalling on the side of the road (amplifier) and re-building the OEM dizzy internals (closed air gap, worn star-thingy, questionable advance unit) and living with it's un-reliability for years, until it died when my kid was the main driver, and I was too sick and busy to re-re-re-fix it myself. Shop charged me waaaay too much for the Pertronix unit, but they did a PRO job installing it and wiring it, and as far as I know now, 6k miles later, my non-starting issues have not been because of the dizzy. Hasn't stalled while driving at all like it used to when the amplifiers would go (even with the remote installation).

So yeah, like I said earlier, I no longer think my problem was the Pertronix unit, and I can gladly endorse it over the finicky OEM dizzy, IF you were having problems like me. I know lots of you never had probs with the stock ignition.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top