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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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assume rotor still bad and cap bad

get a powerspark cap and rotor
 

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As above, the spark just shouldn't be running out to ground there (it won't spark there if there's no route to ground)
So definitely one of those, cap or rotor is still failing to insulate.

You're right on it, but need good components to get you out of inoperable.
 

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Stupid question ? When you look inside the distributor cap the carbon brush is in the middle isn’t it? It hasn’t fell out somewhere at some point and if it is there is it moving freely (pushes up and comes down again) or is it seized in the cap? This needs to move and touch the top of the rotor when cap is fitted to transfer the spark from king lead to the lead
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Stupid question ? When you look inside the distributor cap the carbon brush is in the middle isn’t it? It hasn’t fell out somewhere at some point and if it is there is it moving freely (pushes up and comes down again) or is it seized in the cap? This needs to move and touch the top of the rotor when cap is fitted to transfer the spark from king lead to the lead
The cap was not missing the little push button carbon button, but I did notice that lots of the contacts had white marks on them even though the cap is only a couple months old. I have just now changed out to a new cap I was able to source locally (Duralast brand from auto zone) and I will report back this evening to let you all know if this fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Okay guys, so still no luck with a new cap and new rotor. I am still getting blue sparks into the center of the cap coming from the ignition coil but then nothing coming out from the cap. Using the in line tester, I am getting 0 spark to any of the spark plugs via the spark plug wires.

Keep in mind that I was just idling in a parking lot and the car died out and never has started again.

Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I did a check on on the fuses to the right of the air conditioning controls and all look good. I did notice that the B2 fuse (dome light etc) was very hot. I don’t know if that would be anything related or not.
 

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Strange :unsure:that’s not logical if the spark is going in then theory says it’s gotta come out unless something is not right inside there.
can you rig up your in line spark tester on the king lead (coil) and see if it is still sparking when connected and cranking I wonder if the ht king lead is collapsing under load?
guess the dome light fuse was hot because you had the door open and the light was on? It’s shouldn’t have any effect on your spark it’s probably a low amperage fuse anyway
did you try another rotor arm as well?
just a little test also is if you have a test multimeter check the ohms resistance from the centre of the rotor arm where the dizzy cap contact sits to the tip there should be no resistance then check from rotor arm to distributor body (with the rotor arm in place) there should be no circuit at all if there is no resistance it’s shorting out
 

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The spark cannot come out ...as was said...thru the plug wires if the rotor and the plug wires in the cap are not
Touching at the time of fire........
Or maybe this motor is different and runs on a prayer...
Also if you are continually trying to start it and the battery is depleted ... or close ... and the motor is not turning fast enough... it isn’t going to fire...
 

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Strange :unsure:that’s not logical if the spark is going in then theory says it’s gotta come out unless something is not right inside there.
can you rig up your in line spark tester on the king lead (coil) and see if it is still sparking when connected and cranking I wonder if the ht king lead is collapsing under load?
guess the dome light fuse was hot because you had the door open and the light was on? It’s shouldn’t have any effect on your spark it’s probably a low amperage fuse anyway
did you try another rotor arm as well?
just a little test also is if you have a test multimeter check the ohms resistance from the centre of the rotor arm where the dizzy cap contact sits to the tip there should be no resistance then check from rotor arm to distributor body (with the rotor arm in place) there should be no circuit at all if there is no resistance it’s shorting out
I believe you're on the right track there.

Worth a problem statement here to gain focus? The coil is making sparks, it wouldn't spark at the input terminal of the cap if it didn't have an earth route to that site as the cap is ALL insulation. Therefore, if the rotor is ok and not shorting to the distributor spindle, then the earth MUST be coming from the plugs (confirming the timing is correct) via the plug leads.
But as Cortina has put it, if the resistance is greater via the plug route than the effective conductivity of the king lead, then the king lead will dissipate the spark en-route. Making no spark plug fire.

I had one like the above, when checked in darkness with it all hooked up the king lead was like a hairy Caterpillar along its route past other components it was leaking so much through it's insulation. That one just would not run.

We will get it eventually Swaff, the combined experience on here will prevail. Just the remote working methods will take time ;)
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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This is seriously flummoxing conundrum! Is it possible the spark is lacking enough current to push past the resistive gap from king lead to plug lead? From an electrical perspective, if the spark is of proper voltage it can jump gaps and appear bright, but if the current is too low, the power put in can be dissipated away. Coils only put out a few mA at 40,000 volts, so perhaps the king lead is actually damaged, and while there is enough current to make a spark at the end of the lead, there is not enough to make it the rest of the way to the plugs. This was a quick thought that might be wrong, have to think about the circuit logic a bit more.
 
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