[Classicpain]

I bought a new part # STC1184 ignition amplifier from Amazon for my ’93 LWB, and just verified via RovahFarm.com that this is the correct #. They sell the same part #.I installed it and the truck wouldn’t even fire. Swapped back to my suspected bad amplifier, and the truck started and ran again. Swapped back to the new one, truck barely fired, stumbled over a bit and then died. Swapped back to the suspected bad one and it started up again normally.Just for kicks, I tested both at the 2-prong input with a ohm meter on the 200k scale, the suspected bad one tested something like 16.5 (what does that mean on the 200k scale?), the new one tested 75.5.Is it likely that the new one is faulty? That sounds like a dumb question because obviously it IS, the truck won’t run using it. But I have ZERO confidence in buying another, whether from Amazon or a Land Rover seller, if these things are that sketchy or delicate. I guess for the relatively low price I’ll have to go for it, but I’m also going to buy a GM amplifier and research splicing that in.For background: Truck runs fine for 6-8 miles, then develops the misfire characteristic of a bad amplifier. I can only assume it’s heating up within this time, causing it to fail.

 

[JS5D]

Yes likely bad. These Amps are very common so they make a lot of poor quality (and good quality) aftermarket. From you diagnosis sounds like you have a bad new item.

General idea is that cheap is unlikely to be the best item. If you can afford it I would go for Lucas. I bought one from SimonBBC in the UK and it is working just fine.

If you bought from Amazon you most likely can get your money back if you move quick.

Good luck

 

[annette]

I hope you bought a Lucas, Chinese copies are useless. The price difference is not that big, I buy them for 17 quid from the UK with my other stuff

Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk

 

[Tom109]

Yes, I only recommend Lucas. I install and test each module before I put it in my spares kit - no sense carrying a bad spare - and I carry two IAM's on-board.

 

[classiconly4me]

I've had the exact same experience. If you decide to keep the stock ignition amplifier/coil set up, as crazy as this sounds, stick with the Lucas module. One thing to consider would be to dump the stock set up for an HEI distributor. I recently did just that, and now have a smoother running 4.2, with a tiny bit more power. And the best part is.. I never, ever, ever have to worry about that dumb little amplifier going out on me again. (of all the goofy things on these rigs, that tempurature sensitive one was always my least favorite)

 

[95classiclwb]

I've had the exact same experience. If you decide to keep the stock ignition amplifier/coil set up, as crazy as this sounds, stick with the Lucas module. One thing to consider would be to dump the stock set up for an HEI distributor. I recently did just that, and now have a smoother running 4.2, with a tiny bit more power. And the best part is.. I never, ever, ever have to worry about that dumb little amplifier going out on me again. (of all the goofy things on these rigs, that tempurature sensitive one was always my least favorite)

with a myriad of projects I have not made much leed way on my conversion, my 95 lwb has nearly 300,00 miles on the chassis and body, new drivetrain with in last 5 yrs less than 10,000 miles since. my distributor is worn out and the replacement new unit seems to have been forgotten by makers, aftermarket or otherwise.
I located a spare used which so far has worked, with few options at a substantial cost I decided to go with DIS conversion at 2/3's the cost of a replacement custom dizzy. I have located all inputs and outputs and have the conversion kit just haven't made time to complete.
lots of pros, can't think of many con's.

 

[Range123]

Why not relocate the amp away from the dizzy somewhere cooler like the inner wing under the coil.

I had hot stalling when coming to a stop and did this - no issues anymore. I have three known good amps with resistances ranging from 20 to 105 ohms! they all work ok.

Kits like this may help.

https://simonbbc.com/powerspark-ignition-v8-module-relocation-kit-including-lucas-module-harness/

 

[classiconly4me]

If there's anyone thinking of going the HEI route, here is the one I went with. http://performancedistributors.com/product-category/distributors/land-rover-distributors/
I think they make them for all years of V8 Range Rover engines, but I can only speak to the LWB's 4.2.

 

[95classiclwb]

If there's anyone thinking of going the HEI route, here is the one I went with. http://performancedistributors.com/product-category/distributors/land-rover-distributors/
I think they make them for all years of V8 Range Rover engines, but I can only speak to the LWB's 4.2.

I gave it a thought for a time, they do offer for all rovers but you still end up tied to cap, rotor, advance settings and the components which eventually will fail and nickel and dime your pocket, also the hei dizzy was listed upwards of $700.00 when I inquired 2 yrs ago. the coil or DIS conversion set me back around $400.00 and its newer technology. install, do the mapping and forget about the rest for a good 50,000 miles or better, the ecu takes care of all the rest.

 

[classiconly4me]

I gave it a thought for a time, they do offer for all rovers but you still end up tied to cap, rotor, advance settings and the components which eventually will fail and nickel and dime your pocket, also the hei dizzy was listed upwards of $700.00 when I inquired 2 yrs ago. the coil or DIS conversion set me back around $400.00 and its newer technology. install, do the mapping and forget about the rest for a good 50,000 miles or better, the ecu takes care of all the rest.

You are right about the cost.. I paid $614 for mine delivered. Summit racing also sells these, and you can occasionally catch a sale with them to knock $100 off.
Are you saying that you were able to get rid of your cap and rotor with that conversion?! I'm not sure I would switch back to lucas, but it would be tempting.
My issues with the dumb little ignition amplifiers was always temp related.... COLD temp related. I live in a very cold climate, and nearly every time it would get below 0degrees F, the amp would fail. Relocating the same style amp wouldn't help me. The HEI set up has yet to fail me in severe heat or cold. And, being a SuperStock and Modified racer, I really dug the fact that I could lock the timing down

 

[JS5D]

If you are talking about that kinda money you could also consider 123 Ignition, which is a European product I think but they have a distribution network in the USA:

https://123ignitionusa.com/rover/

This dizzy allows a completely tuneable curve including vacuum input. Also I recall it has a switch to allow you to change between two programmed curves with a flip (for those Range Rover Classic track days!)

 

[95classiclwb]

You are right about the cost.. I paid $614 for mine delivered. Summit racing also sells these, and you can occasionally catch a sale with them to knock $100 off.
Are you saying that you were able to get rid of your cap and rotor with that conversion?! I'm not sure I would switch back to lucas, but it would be tempting.
My issues with the dumb little ignition amplifiers was always temp related.... COLD temp related. I live in a very cold climate, and nearly every time it would get below 0degrees F, the amp would fail. Relocating the same style amp wouldn't help me. The HEI set up has yet to fail me in severe heat or cold. And, being a SuperStock and Modified racer, I really dug the fact that I could lock the timing down

check this out, "trigger-wheels.com" yup no more moving parts and timing is user friendly and programmable with a laptop.

 

[classiconly4me]

Thanks for the beta JS5D and 95classiclwb! I had not seen either of those options before, and both are BA. I will be building a fresh 4.2 this winter, and I will definitely do some homework on these.

 

[Classicpain]

I gave it a thought for a time, they do offer for all rovers but you still end up tied to cap, rotor, advance settings and the components which eventually will fail and nickel and dime your pocket, also the hei dizzy was listed upwards of $700.00 when I inquired 2 yrs ago. the coil or DIS conversion set me back around $400.00 and its newer technology. install, do the mapping and forget about the rest for a good 50,000 miles or better, the ecu takes care of all the rest.

Coming back late to this discussion: What is this "DIS" conversion?

 

[95classiclwb]

Distributor less Ignition System, it replaces your complete primary ignition system I/E cap, rotor, distributor, coil, amplifier and vacuum advance with coils using an ecu and sensors.
some use "cop" Coil On/Over Plug, others use one coil for every two cylinders and yet others one coil for every 4 cylinders. all depends on how advanced the DIS kit is. one of the most basic, simple and successful is the ford based trigger wheel DIS.

 

[Classicpain]

I must have missed it......what DIS system did you install?

 

[95classiclwb]

I have not had the time to complete the install but I did acquire the "megajolt kit from trigger wheels", the kit comes with ford coils and ignition wires. I have acquired land rover coils and wires for future simplicity of procuring parts.
located and identified all circuits, mapped future location of new components, procured factory matching wire extensions etc.
just have not had time to move forward and complete.