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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I am really looking for some new insight because I'm almost at a loss on what the problem is here. I've searched through the forums but I think that I am overlooking something and want to detail everything that I have done and tested and try to get a fresh set of eyes on this problem.

Additional info/disclaimer(not sure if any of this is important or relevant): The engine had a 4.2L Rover engine installed in 08-09. Also I will post pics of truck soon as I take some. The ignition switch went bad so I moved the wires to switches position 1 on a switch. Position 2 to another and ign/run to a momentary push button switch. Most starting happens while doing tests so doors and good are open(I think 1 time my P38 didn't like that)

Problem: Truck won't start. It will crank and spin but will only run with starter fluid in the air intake. This leads me to believe that it is a fuel problem

Diagnosis: Fuel delivery issue

Repairs: replaced fuel pump, ordered new main relay (2days), regrounded and cleaned fuel pump grounds. I was told fuel filter was just replaced by previous owner.

Tests: old fuel pump wouldn't prime or run on ign so I replaced and now fuel pump will prime but doesn't kick or stay on during ign. Currently have fuel pump running off of a spare 12v battery with a 10amp fuse inline to test system. I have tested one spark plug and got a nice whitish blue spark. Distributor and starter look newly replaced. I just started working through the RAVE testing ECU pins but I think I'm having some trouble with which pins are which. Both of the relays under right front seat will click in ON position and off after power is cut so since the relays click I assume they work but after testing pins on ECU I think the main relay is not working also since I get 0volts to fuel pump during ignition. I tested the resistance on 7 of 8 fuel injectors and they all read 16.5-16.7 ohms.

I pulled the return fuel line after the fuel regulator and fuel came gushing out when I hooked fuel pump up to the spare 12v battery.


Scheduled tests: test fuel pressure (not sure how to do this as I haven't seen a valve yet nor own a gauge but will borrow from parts store)(34-36 psi is what I'm hoping for) testing for voltage to fuel injectors. I would test fuel pump and main relays but can't figure out how according to the rave (I suck at electrical things)

Questions: if I pull spark plugs should I smell any fuel/ how dark should they be. The one SP that I have pulled looked good condition just dark/sooty. Any tests that anyone would recommend

Sorry for the long write up. I may have done other tests and forgot to list them but will update if I remember. Open to suggestions and I've got pretty tough skin so if I missed something easy let me know that I'm dumb.
 

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Initial thoughts are your injectors are not receiving a ground signal to fire. However, so many variables have been introduced it make take time to sort.

Also, Is the coil wired properly - are you receiving a signal for the fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No when everything is wired up the only signal I get to the fuel pump is 12 V when I initially turn the key to the 2 position and then the voltage drops to zero and remains at zero even during ignition. This is why I was planning on replacing the main relay because I figured it was bad and not sending power to fuel pump.

How do I check if the coil is wired properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No when everything is wired up the only signal I get to the fuel pump is 12 V when I initially turn the key to the 2 position and then the voltage drops to zero and remains at zero even during ignition. This is why I was planning on replacing the main relay because I figured it was bad and not sending power to fuel pump.

How do I check if the coil is wired properly?
I just ohm tested the ignitionn coil and positive to negative was 1.0 ohms and positive to center high output read 7,000 ohms which both appear to be normal

Also just used a spark plug light tester on all 4 of the spark plugs on the passenger (right) side and all lit up pulsing at about 1 blink of light per second of ignition. Didn't test the left side due to being solo and using my phone to record light.

Update. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to a T joint and fitted with rubber hose after the fuel pressure regulator and it only read around 5 psi of pressure and I could feel and hear fuel flowing through the return line on the backside of the return line. Voltage on secondary 12v batt source reads 12.52V. I think this is the culprit to the no start issue. Now on to research how to fix low fuel pressure
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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You may have a clog in the fuel line. Have they ever been replaced? What does the fuel filter look like? I had low pressure issues due to debris in the lines, which ended up clogging a new filter, as well as a new pump.


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Update. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to a T joint and fitted with rubber hose after the fuel pressure regulator and it only read around 5 psi of pressure and I could feel and hear fuel flowing through the return line on the backside of the return line. Voltage on secondary 12v batt source reads 12.52V. I think this is the culprit to the no start issue. Now on to research how to fix low fuel pressure
You need to test FP right after the fuel filter using a T joint.
My guess would be fuel pump relay.
 

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Also - just to chime in the obvious. You mentioned that the PO said they recently replaced the fuel filter. This jumps out to me - def check that its on correctly, and there must have been a deeper issue that you are closing to solving like a clog somewhere.
 

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Yes the fuel filter needs to go the correct way round - there is an arrow on the canister to show flow. Take the fuel supply line off the regulator and put it in a bottle. Ign 1 should see a good amount of fuel as a prime then stops. Mine fills a 2 pint milk carton approx 4" square about an inch before stopping. Then fire should see a very strong flow of fuel. I was having the same issue and didn't bother checking fuel pressure as it was so obviously coming through strong.

My not starting was down to timing. Has the dizzy been out?
 

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If you can add starter fluid to the intake and it starts
Then you have a fuel issue
If it won't start
Then it is something with your timeing
Distributor
Coil
Cap rotor
In the beginning of this thread you do mention the distributor being disturbed
All you need is fire and fuel to get this to run
 

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.... and compression but thats a bit more of an issue.

If the dizzy was disturbed its well worth checking its set correctly on the lower pulley wheel. I think it should be 6 degrees BTDC. Thats where my problem lay. I'd disturbed the dizzy and didnt realise it had not gone back the way it came out!!.
 

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Any progress RangeJunkie?

Is she firing yet?
 

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It reminds me of an issue I had, with an LT1 Corvette I had that hadn't ran in several years. After troubleshooting the entire fuel system & ECU input/output, I narrowed it down to the injectors... they were clogged with varnish. I had to cycle each one off/on with a 12v source while flowing solvent thru them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry been really busy, been working on and off with this monster. Drained all the old fuel and added 5 gallons of fresh fuel last week. Ive disconnected the fuel pump wiring and am running it directly off of a separate car battery and fuel is going through the lines.

It started for a couple of seconds with starter fluid into the throttle body but will not stay running. Going to explore the clogged fuel line and try to replace the fuel filter but Ive had trouble in the past with the fuel filter just wanting to spin in place.

Also, on the dizzy alignment, the dizzy is mounted anywhere and is just sitting in the engine bay, would this be a problem?
 

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What ya mean by dizzy mounted anywhere
And just setting in engine bay
The distributor has to be in time
And secured
If it’s not set to number one cylinder
And timeing set it won’t fire
No matter how much gas it gets
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The distributor isn't mounted onto the engine it is just sitting on the engine bay. At this point I don't think that the timing is messed up.

Read up on the forums a bit and pulled a spark plug and it was dry and smelled like starter fluid. Figured that the fuel from the rail wasn't getting past the injectors and tested the fuel injector plugs. 12 volts of power on the power side and the ground side read 12 volts until turning the key to IGN position 2 and then dropped to 0 and never had any pulse while cranking. going to do some research on what might be causing the no pulse issue and will update. Any insight to this would be helpful.
 

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You need to put the distributor in and set the timing correctly. The fuel injectors are triggered by a signal from the distributor.
 

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I think you need someone to look at your
Distributor problem

Cause if your distributor is just setting on the engine
How is it going to turn and distribute spark
To your plugs
And if you are trying to start it with it not being installed your in over your head
 

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The distributor obviously can't be sitting on the engine. He mentioned it runs off starter fluid. It wouldn't do that with no distributor...
 

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good point....and..... good luck
sounds like nonsense anyway
 
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