[mills13b]

My 92 classic runs fine for a few days then all of a sudden it will idle but die out when the throttle is given. Most of the time it will stall completely and the only way to get it started again is to pull the fuel cut off switch under my seat. Ive replaced the plugs, the idle air control valve, cleaned the mass air flow sensor, my ignition amplifier control module has been relocated, and my new Lucas ignition coil is coming today. Im a do it your selfer and Im tired of taking this thing to the shop and being charged $125 for them to tell me that they dont know and want to do more work. What I mean is they want to tear down the whole top half of the motor. I dont think thats the problem, however I am new to RR. Its a pain, but Im hooked! Please help- Thanks

 

[Diggaz]

I am wondering why you would have to touch the fuel cut off button? It should only cut the fuel in case of an accident, does it trip when it stalls? Do you have a check engine light?

 

[mills13b]

No check engine light. It also doesnt trip when it stalls, its almost like its flooded and the only way it starts is to cut off the fuel. Ive just never heard of an EFI vehicle flooding

 

[mills13b]

So far the ignition coil seems to have worked, I only drive around town for a few minutes though. Ill update after our run through the mountains this weekend. Anyone with any other ideas please feel free to add them.

 

[Diggaz]

Next time it stalls and doesn't want to run I would pull the plugs check for spark/see if they are wet. How old is your fuel filter, you might be starving for fuel when it stalls?

 

[olmectech]

Your on the right path. Write down the remaining parts of the fuel injection system and sensors. Replace the cheap parts first and clean/test what you can. Also, don't forget the cables to the battery.

 

[stuart460]

i would try the coolant temp sensor for the fuel injection and reset the base idle, another option is the air flow meter try running with it disconnected and see how it drives to clear the faults if you do not have the kit is disconnect the battery for half hour

 

[mills13b]

Yeah, those are a few things I havent tried and are next on my list. The ignition coil didnt seem to help after more around town driving today. What can I say though, I got it for $28.95 because Rovers North was overstock. Ive often thought about possible trash in the fuel tank and/or clogged fuel filter. I also have not changed the plug wires yet, and the distributor cap looks new. I also have not "reset the ECU'. Does anyone have experience with this? Is it as simple as unhooking the battery for a while? Thanks everyone for the help so far. Ill try and have a pic of my beast for the profile pic tomorrow.

 

[Diggaz]

DONT RESET BASE IDLE. Are you getting spark when it quits? Too much fuel? Start with the basics, I wouldnt recommed f-ing with the base idle AT ALL.

 

[mills13b]

If you are talking about that allen bolt on the plenum next to the cruise control bulb; too late. The yocal mechanic here in the springs that supposedly specializes in Land Rovers already did. Then he said whenever it messes up just turn this til it runs. I didnt know what it was at the time. Im about to just give up and take it to Land Rover of Colorado Springs

 

[olmectech]

I wouldn't give up so easy. The dealer is gonna hit you hard.

You still have some things left you can do.

Get the fuel pressure tested at idle and 2000 rpm to rule out problems with fuel pressure. You also have the temp sensor and TPS sensor you can replace. I've seen a bad TPS sensor cause stalling problems. On the distributor you can check the timing and air gap.

 

[olmectech]

Also, make sure your distributor cap and rotor are genuine parts and not aftermarket.

 

[mills13b]

Ill give it a shot, thanks for all the help!

 

[mills13b]

How do I know the distributor and rotor are genuine? The ignition on it was Bosch, the OEM ignition I ordered was Lucas. If I understand correctly all the electronics/ignition components should be Lucas right? The alternator is Mean Green and so is the starter.( I know mean green doesnt have an application for this model but the previous owner made it work, thats why I have no power steering right now). Does the tachometer really have that much to do with these things working properly?

 

[olmectech]

If the cap and rotor are Lucas you should be good.

 

[rover4x4]

If you are talking about that allen bolt on the plenum next to the cruise control bulb; too late. The yocal mechanic here in the springs that supposedly specializes in Land Rovers already did. Then he said whenever it messes up just turn this til it runs. I didnt know what it was at the time. Im about to just give up and take it to Land Rover of Colorado Springs

You need a new mechanic

 

[rufant]

I agree about pulling the plugs after it happens and reporting on the condition (or posting pics). Reporting on spark condition won't hurt either.

 

[leadfoot]

why is oem cap and rotor so important? i figure these are general parts.

 

[85mm]

Could be a bad fuel pump.

I found another recent thread where another guy had the exact same problem I had. Truck starts fine. For me, I would often have to restart a couple times in the morning as the engine would just die getting out of my driveway. For me and the other guy, when we were on the freeway and hit the gas, little to no acceleration. Had the fuel pump replaced and it runs fine . . . for now

 

[bandit86]

TPs sensor. ask me how i know.

in a pinch, you can take it out ans spray a very small amount of graphite lubricant in it, keep turning a bit might buy you a few weeks