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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 90 RRC with some electrical gremlins to work out. It has been swapped over to a Holley 500, and I'm guessing the engine ECU has been unhooked as it doesn't throw cat lights despite running a bit rich.

The temp gauge isn't working. The resistance at the sensor checks out, but there is no voltage at the leads with the ignition on (should be 10v, right?). Is this somehow driven through the ECU? Is there a way to jumper it or does a different gauge need installed? I'm a bit leary driving a used vehcile around sans temp gauge.

The alternator has been replaced with a Denso unit (14895 I think) and the tach doesn't work. There are 3 space terminals on the back of the alt, but none seem to provide the signal the tach (white wire?) wants. Does that need the ECU to function?

Windows....windows, windows. The only window that works is passenger side rear (and it's a bit hot right now for no windows or AC). I've tried rotating switches around, but all 4 switches only work on the passenger rear window. I'm getting good voltage on #3 on all four connectors, and can jumped 1-3/5-3 and 2-4 and close the circuit, but none of the windows move when jumped (even the good one that operates with a switch). The window ECU seems ok (no cracking/ bad solders), but the rear window works even with the ECU unhooked. Any thoughts?
 

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Rev counter does not require the ECU as far as I know, you just need the cable connected to the correct terminal on the alternator (assuming the alternator has the correct outputs).

Windows. I've fixed 2 power windows on my '89 in the past three weeks. Take the door panel off, and find the wiring for the window motor. Disconnect at the joint (2 wires) and check you are getting +ve and -ve 12V here when the switch is operated. If you do, its the motor.

I managed to revive 2 of mine, disconnect the three bolts that hold the motor and the winding mechanism to the door, and carefully remove. I then removed the motor from the winding mechanism, and re-attached to the wiring harness. (note, when you re-assemble, it's hard to get the motor back into the winding mechanism, unless you undo the 'tension' screw at the far end of the winding mechanism, and line up the bearings by hand)

Once I got the motor out, I gave it a good dose of WD40, and worked the switch until the thing came back to life. Maybe I got luck that they were just seized and not destroyed. Anyway, if you get the motor going again you can re-assemble...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suppose I should ad what type of signal does the tach want? Any ideas what to look for? Obviously something that is pulsing to give a rev count, but any other details?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I thought my tach was just an extra wire coming from the coil. Standard pulse counter, nothing exotic on my US spec 90 RRC. White with black going into the harness going to the Mass flow sensor plug. It is in a piece of black spaghetti tubing until it joins the harness a few inches from the MFS plug.

HTH, Steve 8~
 
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