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Discussion Starter #1
I am still running into a starting issue with my 90 RRC. It has a long crank and won’t start until I give it gas. It will virtually start up with almost no issues in the mornings. It will fire up right away in the morning, but I need to give it some gas or it would stall out. Other than that I have a long crank and it won’t start until I floor the gas pedal, it basically acts like a flooded engine after the first start of the day. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, idle control valve, coolant temperature sensor, air boot, intake gaskets. The fuel temperature sensor looks brand new. I did notice that when I was checking the timing that there doesn’t seem to be any vacuum at the vacuum advance until I give it throttle. The current idle is about 750-800 RPM. I have also noticed backfiring thru the intake under a hard acceleration from a stop to merge into traffic. I also have this whiteish smoke blowing out the tailpipe. It smells like the exhaust has fuel in it. It is definitely NOT coolant.
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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172 Posts
Sorry I need some clarification. It starts perfectly from cold, but needs a lot of cranks/ pedal pushing for subsequent throughout the day? So the starting issue is only when hot?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, I can start it in the morning, drive to work and leave it off for the next 6-8 hours. When I get back in the Rover to start it I have the long crank.
 

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But when you park it for the night it will be fine the next morning? I wonder if your injectors are leaking. Perhaps they leak for a while after you park and flood the cylinders, hence hard start. They leak for a while when you park for the evening as well, but in that amount of time enough of the leaked fuel has evaporated and it starts fine in the morning. Just a thought. If you replace the injectors, I highly recommend upgrading to the newer bosch style injectors, much more efficient.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I have a similar problem with my '91 3.9. When dead cold or when stopped for a few minutes, it starts right up. If it stays off for some time (like between 30 mins to a few hours) it takes a lot of cranking to start and when it does, a lot of gas smell comes out of the exhaust. Changed fuel pressure regulator, all the ignition components, the fuel filter. No backfiring nor smoke issues, though. It has never failed to start eventually, but it is a little inconvenient. If you do go with the injectors fix, please report back if it solves the problem, thanks.
 

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I don't have an EFI on my Range Rover, but it sounds like maybe your temp sensor has gone out. I do recall that there are various sensor on the engine rather than a single one to share all functions. The one that drives your temp gauge is not the same as the one that tells the EFI how cold the engine is.

There was a discussion here earlier where a person was trying to find where his EFI temp sensor was and he was pointed to it by a member here. You should be able to measure resistance hot or cold.

IF this is the problem the fix is cheap and simple.
 

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Just to assist with JS5D above the pic attached shows the 2 sensors, (listed at bottom) the thermotime sensor controls the cold start injector,, you could try just unplugging it for test purposes, the coolant temp sensor reports back to the ECU the temp gauge sensor is towards the front around distributor area gxood luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a similar problem with my '91 3.9. When dead cold or when stopped for a few minutes, it starts right up. If it stays off for some time (like between 30 mins to a few hours) it takes a lot of cranking to start and when it does, a lot of gas smell comes out of the exhaust. Changed fuel pressure regulator, all the ignition components, the fuel filter. No backfiring nor smoke issues, though. It has never failed to start eventually, but it is a little inconvenient. If you do go with the injectors fix, please report back if it solves the problem, thanks.
Mine does eventually start, I ordered the new injectors but they still haven’t come yet
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I was finally able to replace all of my injectors. In doing so I found 2 injectors that we’re stuck open.
Now the issue I have is that when I start it first thing in the morning it doesn’t want to accelerate at all and stalls when giving it gas. I need to wait for it to warm up after about 5 minutes. I’ve also noticed that when I leave the Rover running with the AC on it will eventually stall and doesn’t want to start again. I’ve also noticed that when it stalls with the AC on I need to turn the AC system off cause it will act like a dead battery when trying to restart it. I’ve gotten stuck a couple of times when this happened.
 

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What would happen if you put back the old injectors, at least the 6 that weren't leaking?

Those Ebay injectors are so cheap that it's not outside the realm of possibilities that they are duds.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well come to find out my alternator was failing and finally failed. So I’m putting a new alternator in tonight and will see how everything works from there
 

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No, I can start it in the morning, drive to work and leave it off for the next 6-8 hours. When I get back in the Rover to start it I have the long crank.
This sounds like one or more of the injectors are beginning to fail... in the mornings completely cooled and jump to action but running them for a while is tiring them out.... upgrade them. Also, when its running... spray some water around your vacuum hoses and see if the idle changes. You might just have a little leak
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just finished upgrading to new Bosch injectors. The issue I am having now is that if I don’t let the Rover run for 5 minutes to warm up a little it falls on its face and pretty much stalls right out. It’s like it’s not getting enough fuel or too much air. As soon as it warms up, it runs like a top
 
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