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Discussion Starter #1
After a long run on the highway, when I pull over and fuel up, 9 times out of 10 I can't get it to start. It turns over just fine, but won't fire. I usually have to wait about 30 minutes before it will fire over. I've changed the cats and the fuel filter. Cap, rotor, and plugs all new. I can hear the fuel pump energize for a couple seconds. All my research leads me to believe its the ignition control module needing to be rerouted to the fender. Is this the most probable? I've read the write-up on the process. The remounting kit is pretty expensive. Has anyone done this? What is this "reluctor plate" that people stick on the distributor to replace the old module?

Thanks!
 

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I haven't done this myself but it is planned for the future. I think the plate is a blank to go in the spot were the module used to be. Some people make there own kit but I have not so I cant comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm wondering if I even have to put a replacement in there at all. Since the entire module is relocated, there should only be a couple wire terminals coming out of the distributor, right? Couldn't a guy just attach a direct wire for each terminal?
 

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make sure you test spark AND fuel when the vehicle is hot, before purchasing anything.

Here's where my hot start problem has led me:

I have replaced basically every ignition component in the last 3 months, as I had very weak, yellow-ish spark. Replacement parts include: distributor, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, ignition coil, and ignition amplifier (also have new alternator and new battery). As a result, I have very strong blueish spark.

On the fuel side, I have replaced the coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump (this was used). I'm going to be replacing the fuel pump again with a brand new one, as I'm only getting 20psi at the fuel rail. I'm also going to replace the fuel rail temp sensor and buying yet another Air Flow Meter (bought a 5AM, which apparently is the wrong AFM).

After that, i can only suspect the fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors.

My $1200 Range Rover, has turned into a $1200 Range Rover with $1200+ in parts (no labor, thank god:p). And it's still needs a new rear hatch, still leaks like a civ, and needs new tires and freshened suspension.
 
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