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I know I could have searched fuel pump troubleshooting but I have some specific questions pertaining to my situation.

Wouldn't start so I thought it was empty, added fuel and still nothing. Pulled filter and nothing is coming from pump when I turn the key. Vehicle hasn't moved and prior to all this sat about 10 years without running (I'm guessing). I had hoped there wasn't too much gel in the tank but I think that is in vain, as fuel I poured out the filter looked rather milky.

I believe the gel has clogged or ruined the fuel pump. Is there a standard trouble-shooting process? Obvious things to me seem to be check the voltage when key comes on to make sure it has power, but I am wondering... is there a filter in the tank I might have hope of changing and saving the pump?

Also, it appears to have a drain on the tank. Could I be that lucky? That would help considering I just put 5 more gallons into it. Additionally, I am wondering if anyone has cut an access panel to avoid tank removal? This is just a project so I don't mind having a hole to patch in what will eventually be a pickup bed.

Thanks in advance. FYI I already checked the charcoal canister and it seems good. 馃ぃ
 

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I am hopeing the canister remark was you being funny...
88鈥檚 must have lots of problems....
Do you know it will start... me I would make sure it runs before I鈥檇 even mess with the fuel pump... try this pop the MAF loose and spray starter fluid into the plenum...if it starts then mess with the fuel pump...,10 years is a long time to sit...
And yes you can cut an access hole ...
I would be careful...
 

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Last time I saw someone remove a drain plug from fuel tank ( series 2A ) it came out so fast he couldn't get the plug back in, it made an umbrella shape and comically unsuccessful. Get a big bucket if you go that route.

Most fuel pump are in a mesh/ nylon? bag for intake so they are generally protected from big debris entering.

Mine is later "hole in the floor " factory orientation, it does make it real easy to work on pump etc if you want to cut and patch.

Is the pump running at switch on?

I'd verify the carbon system too;) oh, and maybe pop the cap to let some air in there to help you out;)
 

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Forgot to mention, the hole in the floor on mine is just flattening from the corrugated form peripheral to the aperture, then a steel disc with eight self tapping screws fix it in place with a gasket made of that soundproof/ tar type material to seal from water ingress. It's certainly not anything sophisticated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am hopeing the canister remark was you being funny...
88鈥檚 must have lots of problems....
Do you know it will start... me I would make sure it runs before I鈥檇 even mess with the fuel pump... try this pop the MAF loose and spray starter fluid into the plenum...if it starts then mess with the fuel pump...,10 years is a long time to sit...
And yes you can cut an access hole ...
I would be careful...
It did run, this is the one in just another build thread. And it does run on starting fluid. Also yes canister remark was a joke.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Forgot to mention, the hole in the floor on mine is just flattening from the corrugated form peripheral to the aperture, then a steel disc with eight self tapping screws fix it in place with a gasket made of that soundproof/ tar type material to seal from water ingress. It's certainly not anything sophisticated.
Ok will try to find the right place to cut, I can't hear it kick on but I haven't listened closely. And will have plenty of buckets... kicking myself for adding more. 馃う馃徏鈥嶁檪锔
 

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The fuel pump ecu logic plus the pump relay can be bypassed to test by using a jumper in the fuse box from cigarette lighter supply side to pump supply side fuse.

It just comes on with ignition then as it's downstream from both ecu and relay. It at least tests the wire and pump with independent supply to see if it'll run the pump. Still runs "fused" so safe to use like this for diagnosis too.

You could also disconnect going into filter to run out into a container to see what you've got in th tank so it's not pumped to the injectors. And empty the tank that way.
 

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It did run, this is the one in just another build thread. And it does run on starting fluid. Also yes canister remark was a joke.
Good about the joke part..
And good it starts... you are on the right track...and you are getting good advice ... good luck... you should be able to sort this out..
 

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I know I could have searched fuel pump troubleshooting but I have some specific questions pertaining to my situation.

Wouldn't start so I thought it was empty, added fuel and still nothing. Pulled filter and nothing is coming from pump when I turn the key. Vehicle hasn't moved and prior to all this sat about 10 years without running (I'm guessing). I had hoped there wasn't too much gel in the tank but I think that is in vain, as fuel I poured out the filter looked rather milky.

I believe the gel has clogged or ruined the fuel pump. Is there a standard trouble-shooting process? Obvious things to me seem to be check the voltage when key comes on to make sure it has power, but I am wondering... is there a filter in the tank I might have hope of changing and saving the pump?

Also, it appears to have a drain on the tank. Could I be that lucky? That would help considering I just put 5 more gallons into it. Additionally, I am wondering if anyone has cut an access panel to avoid tank removal? This is just a project so I don't mind having a hole to patch in what will eventually be a pickup bed.

Thanks in advance. FYI I already checked the charcoal canister and it seems good. 馃ぃ
Not sure if you've solved this, but its most likely the fuel pump, its the older one with the filter bag at the bottom, they fail regularly.. You can carefully remove the fuel line from the rail in the engine bay and turn the key, if nothing comes out, then the pump is bad. Remove the stepper motor and spray some starter in there, it will fire up if all the sparks are working. then burn out and die.... this means NO fuel is getting to the plenum.

Check your fuel pump relay, under the passenger side - (USA) - you can hear it click when you turn the key to the standby (2nd) position. Unfortunately these cars are a 'replace the part and see'. You can get a pump and a relay for around $120 and they're easy to fix.

Don't cut access holes. It's so scrappy. Remove the tank, give it a rinse, install a new pump and sender while you're there, reinstall. It's not a long job, 2 hours it took me and my trunk floor is still in factory condition.
 

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Just cut the access hole but be careful, LR decided to put it in the later classics before inexplicably removing it for the P38.

Alternatively you can drill out the rivets and lift the whole aluminum floor section out.
 

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I would think if you dropped the tank
On this older rover... the tank holder strap would fall to pieces...
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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One of my Classics was rigged by a previous owner with a relay controlled by the key, that connects directly the battery to the fuel pump. This bypasses totally the ECU and the fuel pump relay. Simplest circuit ever.
Seems to be working fine.
 
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