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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone, thanks for all the advise beforehand.

I recently got a 1988 that died in fight while I was on the freeway and does not start after that. Idle was a little low as It died once at a red light. Drove for about 20 miles then just cut off. I tried restarting again but no crank, no clicking, no nothing. It’s as if you’re trying to start it while the gear is in reverse. All the lights come on, radio, windows all work fine. Battery and alternator seem pretty good.

Any ideas what the issue could be? I feel like it’s not engaging into the gear properly and not allowing it to start. Although I tried starting in each gear but nothing. Could it be something in the ignition switch? Fuse? Something in the shifting mechanism?

Lost, any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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It is only going to start in park and neutral
Did you try to jump start it
If the battery drained it won’t turn over
Also check on the firewall above the starter where the hot wire connection to the starter is
It could be loose or corroded
Good luck
 

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It is only going to start in park and neutral
Did you try to jump start it
If the battery drained it won’t turn over
Also check on the firewall above the starter where the hot wire connection to the starter is
It could be loose or corroded
Good luck
Mike
 

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I've had this happen a few times on my '88 and I found the following reasons outside of the more common batt/alt/starter challenges (different each time):

- Wire to starter was not properly run when starter was replaced, the wire was leaning against the exhaust and had melted over time. Wire needed to be replaced and run not along the exhaust, started right up and no problems since.

- Mice had chewed the power wires connecting my fuel pump, back near the fuel pump. Wire needed to be cut and spliced. Truck fired back up again.

- Fuel gauge wasn't accurate- ran out of fuel :p

- After working on the fuel injectors and fuel system, truck ran for a bit but had air in the lines and vapor locked. Had to clear the lines properly and then it ran fine.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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Hi Everyone, thanks for all the advise beforehand.

I recently got a 1988 that died in fight while I was on the freeway and does not start after that. Idle was a little low as It died once at a red light. Drove for about 20 miles then just cut off. I tried restarting again but no crank, no clicking, no nothing. It’s as if you’re trying to start it while the gear is in reverse. All the lights come on, radio, windows all work fine. Battery and alternator seem pretty good.

Any ideas what the issue could be? I feel like it’s not engaging into the gear properly and not allowing it to start. Although I tried starting in each gear but nothing. Could it be something in the ignition switch? Fuse? Something in the shifting mechanism?

Lost, any help is appreciated. Thanks

what have you tested.?, does it turn over with key? more detailed info is needed to be able to help you, start by checking battery state and follow diagnose tree from there, is there any spark to and from distributor? do you have fuel pressure at rail?.
how good is your maintenance? is there oil? did it seize.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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83 Posts
Check if the ignition coil and distributor are making sparks. I had the same symptoms coming home from a drive to the coast, the engine would die whenever the truck came to a stop, and eventually wouldn’t turn over at all (luckily made it to within 100 ft of my house when that happened).
I originally suspected the fuel system and replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay. The issue ended up being a frayed wire going to the ignition amplifier module. I would also follow the advice of checking the connection to the starter.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Guys thanks for the advice and sorry for the late response.

I did try to jump it and tried starting it in Park and Neutral, but nothing. It doesn't seem like starters engaging, there's no crank from the engine at all - which will be my next thing to check. If it were the coil, fuel pump, or injectors i would at least expect the engine to crank but not start. As far as being seized, is that a real possibility? how would that feel like while driving on the freeway? Oil was check before i left, although i have yet to check it after, and there was no indication of overheating, smoke, or similar. For me, i started to come to a stop because of traffic then just cut off. Will be looking at it over the weekend, i'll make sure to update.

Thanks again.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Is the starter responding – spinning? If no, try rotating the motor (engine) manually – you could have lost the timing gear/chain?

If it rotates freely, you could simply have a bad starter – with additional issues yet to be identified which caused the stall.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
No spinning or clicking from the starter, as if no power is getting to it. Hopefully its just a lose wire, relay, or fuse. I did hear some clicking coming out of the fuse box from the engine on the passenger side, i have yet to investigate. If the chain is gone, how freely will the engine move? and I assume i can just throw a breaker bar on it, do i rotate clockwise or counter, does it matter? If it is a bad starter, that can't cause the truck to die on the freeway, can it? I may be dealing with two separate issues?
 

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It would by unusual, but not impossible, to get two faults. But it will make it harder to find so be prepared to try and separate for diagnosis.

If you (brakes on, in Park etc) get underneath it to the starter motor, there should be two nut held electric terminals on it, one coming down from battery and one next to it. Get a big screwdriver and connect the two (it will spark as it's hefty load) the starter should just spin. This will establish if it has a supply reaching it, that's all. But it shows its available for command by driver starting circuit. Don't touch the screwdriver to any other components while you do this, it'll directly short the battery to earth.

Next. With ignition on, you should have voltage available at the coil + terminal. This shows the ignition circuit is alive with key in run position.

Also do you get ignition light on dash with key in run position? If no to either of these two I'd suspect the ignition key rotary switch initially. Or its supply line.

Have a check and let us know what you find.
 

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A bad starter relay would cause your no start issue but I don't thing that would cause the initial problem.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, found the problem with start up but still need to figure out why it died in the first place. It wouldn't start due to one of the wires coming lose from the starter! Attached it and started right up...only if all fixes were that easy. Another issue to note, it has bad shocks, practically no rubber on all and the axle would bounce all over the place. So it would make sense that the wire would pop off.

Why it died in the first place, i have not figured out. I drove it around the block and died after a quarter mile, sounded like it wasn't getting fuel and sputtered till it died. Cranked this time, but i was unable to start it up again. I checked the gas, fuel pump, and fuel filter and all seemed well. After an hour or so, its starts up as normal again and i have no idea what i did to fix it. I'm wondering if its another lose wire again, something related to the coil or distributor? Fuel line or injectors? It's currently running fine now, but afraid to take her for a spin.

Any ideas? Thanks everyone
 

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I would loosen the fuel cap
If mine is to tight it causes
A vacuum lock
And will stop running


It’s a idea
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If this were a P-38, I would give it a very high chance that it was the Crank Position Sensor.......A "Classic" case.....
If you have the Gems engine system, Then I am certain that you also have one........
When it starts to act up, It fails due to heating. A quick test is to fire it up, and when it quits, spray CPS with cold water. If it restarts, then replace CPS.
Of course, checking all wires and plugs associated with CPS is a good idea!
Cheers!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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If this were a P-38, I would give it a very high chance that it was the Crank Position Sensor.......A "Classic" case.....
If you have the Gems engine system, Then I am certain that you also have one........
When it starts to act up, It fails due to heating. A quick test is to fire it up, and when it quits, spray CPS with cold water. If it restarts, then replace CPS.
Of course, checking all wires and plugs associated with CPS is a good idea!
Cheers!
gems never inhabited a classic engine bay from factory, 87,88 had 14 cu and 3.5 engines, 89 on 14cux and 3.9.

Crank sensor on an electronic distributor is basically the pick up plate. on conventional dizzy ckp is basically the ignition point set.
 

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Ahhh, well, the equivalent part would be the pick up coil, and would be a good a place as any to start looking.
When I got my 85 in Oz, it had an breaker less ignition fitted on the dist. I sourced an new electronic module to carry with us on our travels as I was assured that if this thing failed, I was doomed. I also carried a spare Dist with std contacts.......
Never needed the module, but did indeed spin the bush in the dist in the very center of nowhere and was really glad I had the spare dist!
I would still suspect the electronics on this due to the sporadic, seemingly temperature related issue.
Happy Hunting!
 
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