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Short 6HP26/28 Fluid Change Writeup - For 2006-2012 L322s

First of all, you’ll need a few things:

6 Quarts of TYK500050 Lifeguard 6 or XT6QSP Ford Motorcraft MerconSP, SP has a 2% difference to LG6, safe to use as an inexpensive alternative

A 24-15-2-333-903 ZF Filtran filter, a metal pan for the L322 is not necessary. Can be found on eBay for around $75, OE, buy only ZF

Nitrile gloves are optional. I do recommend having some good heat resistant gloves that are fairly thin.

A simple hand pump that can suck fluid out of the bottle into the transmission, I used one from Pennzoil bought from Walmart, it worked fairly well and took fluid quickly.

A variety of tools, all metric. Variety of torx, open end wrench (or ratcheting wrench), ¼ drive ratchet and short socket 8mm, 10mm, ¾ drive ratchet, ¾ drive long extension, ¾ drive 10mm, electric impact does wonders. I apologize for not recording all tool sizes.

Step one: Get the vehicle up to where you can work on the transmission, you’ll need a good bit of room depending on your size. I found it easiest to use a four post lift. Make sure whatever you’re working on is stable, you will have to start, stop, and keep your truck running up for the fill procedure.

After it is set up, make yourself comfortable with the underside of your transmission and the areas around it. You will be working with the plastic black pan that is there. Find the 3 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield on, and remove them. The heat shield should now be able to shift off.

Next are four bolts for the transmission guard. Two are each side. These can be taken out with a ratcheting 8mm wrench on the drivers side (US), and with a short 8mm socket on the passenger. The shift cable may need to be moved to be able to fit a wrench. There are two 8mm bolts holding it on, the one closer to the rear of the vehicle can be removed, and the bolt to the front loosened a tad. You should now be able to completely remove the guard.

Find the fill plug for the trans, it should be on the right side (looking to the front of the vehicle) in the back of the trans. You will need to undo this plug, keep a pan underneath in case any oil finds its way out.

Next, use an oil pan and undo the main drain bolt, let drain until a drip. Replace the drain bolt hand tight.

Start with an impact in short bursts to just crack loose the bolts. Start undoing the bolts holding the pan on. Do all from ends to middle, leaving one bolt in to hold the pan until you can grip it and undo the last bolt. The pan will have fluid in it, and will leak from the filter.

Use non-chlorinated brake clean and a rag to clean all around the transmission and valve body. Clean the gasket mating surface of the transmission with a bit of scotchbrite pad. Wipe again with clean rag, and find the new pan.

With the new pan, make sure that no oil has gotten onto the mating surfaces of either the pan or transmission. Do put a bit of oil new or used onto the o ring of the filter. Line the filter up with the hole it sits in, does not take much force but it is a snug fit. Start putting bolts in from middle out. Use the included diagram from ZF, a photo will be put below. Torque to 10NM.

Install the bolts for the shift cable.

Follow instructions for fill on the diagram from ZF included in the filter,

A) Transmissions fluid level checking.
1) The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature.
2) The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed and air conditioning turned on.
3) Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position.
4) With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct.
5) If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low and oil needs to be added until it overflows.
6) With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque.

B) Adding fluid after repairs.
1) With the engine stopped and the transmission in Park position, remove the oil filler plug. Add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out.
2) Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Start the engine.
3) With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand.
4) Follow the “Transmission fluid level checking” procedure described in section A) above.

C) Notes on fluid level and adding procedure.
1) Use only ZF*LifeguardFluid6 or OE approved transmission fluid.
2) If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure the resulting oil level will be to low. Let the transmission cool down and repeat the fluid level procedure.
3) Have transmission fluid and a suitable oil pump available before starting the fluid level procedure. The transmission fluid temperature will rise quickly during the checking procedure.


Install the fill plug for the final time, torque to 35NM + 3.5NM, if not replacing pan, torque the drain bolt to 8NM

(KEEP IN MIND HOT CATALYTIC CONVERTER AT THIS POINT) Undo the bolt for the shift cable, and install the transmission guard back. Torque until tight, don’t overdo it keep in mind its into aluminium. Torque the shift cable bolts to the same approximate torque.

Clean any oil residue from frame, keep in mind catalytic converter is hot, do not spray with brake clean.

Re install heat shield.

Take for a test drive!

Nice links:

https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/ZF_Transmission_Fluid_Level_Checking_6HP26X_land_rover_fluid_level.pdf
 

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2011 Range Rover Supercharged
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133 Posts
Thanks for the great write-up and reference link. Sounds like the L322 provides better access to the transmission than the LR3/4 Chassis. Good to know as the 6HP2X trans family seem to have a couple problems with the mechatronics sleeve and bridge seal which requires dropping the pan and valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Definitely easier than the L319 chassis, and possibly the L320 chassis. Took all of 2 hours maybe a little less, and I was being careful. I did not use any instructions, just saw what needs to come out, and that was what came out. Only instruction I used was the ZF fill procedure writeup.

I'm doing the transmission change on my 95,000 mile 5.0 HSE tonight, I'll report if there are any differences between that and the 5.0 supercharged.


I just read the top,, I meant 3/8 drive not 3/4 drive,:roll:
 

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2011 Range Rover Supercharged
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133 Posts
Definitely easier than the L319 chassis, and possibly the L320 chassis. Took all of 2 hours maybe a little less, and I was being careful. I did not use any instructions, just saw what needs to come out, and that was what came out. Only instruction I used was the ZF fill procedure writeup.

I'm doing the transmission change on my 95,000 mile 5.0 HSE tonight, I'll report if there are any differences between that and the 5.0 supercharged.


I just read the top,, I meant 3/8 drive not 3/4 drive,<img src="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />
I assumed you meant 3/8 drive, especially when you mentioned it was for the pan bolts ?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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323 Posts
Workshop Manual (2010-2012) says to use special tool 307-452 (Wrench, Transmission Filler Plug) - is this really necessary? I have no problem using it or calculating the torque value - I'm just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't use any special tools which is nice.. I must say while not being a 4HP series, it is still very easy to work on.



And an update on Mercon SP, I have about 5k miles on my SC and as my girlfriend drives the 2010, about 10k on it. Both shift wonderfully, no issues with Mercon instead of LG6.
 
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