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Discussion Starter #1
Well, 80k mile truck with issue outlined in title, pointed to be a leaking transmission sleeve and possibly bridge seal. What besides these parts needs to be replaced while in the transmission? Are there any gaskets needed to remove and reinstall the valve body (mechatronic unit I think it's called?)..

thank you for any help

2011 Range Rover Supercharged 79,500 miles.
 

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Well a leaking connector sealing sleeve won’t have anything to do with the engagement delay (and I think the original issue with the orange seals was fixed by the time the Gen.2 6HP28 came along, anyway) but a leaking bridge seal certainly might. In addition to the bridge seal the four rubber jump tubes will need replacing too when the mechatronic unit is removed. Worth replacing the sump pan/filter as well at that mileage – just make sure you use a genuine IBS Filtran unit and only use ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid to refill.











Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alright. Where to get those parts that is a trusted supplier? Also, does anyone know of the quality of the AB transmission kit with metal pan? Or stick with plastic pan kit they have..

Is the transmission in the SC 6hp26 or 28?


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The Gen. 2 (6HP28 ) transmission replaced the Gen. 1 (6HP26) transmission for 2010 MY i.e. when the 5.0 litre replaced the 4.2 litre engine. Only use authorised ZF distributors or Land Rover to ensure that you get genuine ZF parts e.g.

http://www.zftranspart.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1

http://www.thectsc.com/

The metal pan and separate filter is a common replacement on RRS and LR3 where the crossmember gets in the way of the sump replacement, but it’s totally unnecessary on the L322. There’s no harm in it, it just isn’t necessary.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it. I'm really leaning towards the bridge seal leaking as it only has happened after a good bit of driving. I'll go ahead and order parts and see when I can install.

Besides that heated seat failed today...I think my nephew kicking the seat has something to do with the fan assembly in the back or bottom... :(

and the darn viscous fan started clicking today as well

so far higher mileage 5.0 HSE has been more reliable :oops:

510HP has been great though :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Phil, opinion needed.

Will Motorcraft Mercon SP work as an equivalent in the 6HP28 as proven to work in the 6HP26?

All other OE ZF parts ordered except filter, I’ll have to stop by my LR dealer as they have a discounted one in stock.


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ZF specify the same fluid (i.e. Lifeguard Fluid 6) for both the 6HP26X and the 6HP28X transmissions.



The story goes that when Ford started making the 6HP26 (in Livonia) under licence from ZF the Lifeguard Fluid 6/Shell M-1375.4 fluid made over here in Europe was deemed too expensive for what Ford customers in the US would accept. Shell therefore started producing the fluid in Houston just for Ford, badged as Mercon SP, at a much more competitive price.

I thought that Ford had superseded SP with LV and that the two weren’t completely compatible. So are you still able to source Mercon SP over there?

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Luckily they do! Stopped by my Ford dealer and asked, they had three 12 quart cases.. I bought 1 case for $75~

Also stopped at my LR dealer and they wanted $180 at a discounted price :shock:
Bought a genuine ZF filter on eBay for $75

So in total I will be resealing and flushing the entire transmission for under $200, much better than the $300 for 6 quarts on Atlantic British!
 

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The pricing markups are really crazy if you ask me. Either trying to cover overhead cost or just trying to make higher profit. You’d think that they would match competitors price to keep your business...$180 vs. $75 geeeh that $180 filter better be made out of gold
 

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Well, transmission job completed a few weeks ago, decided to use the truck instead of the L405 for testing, many many highway miles, 200 or so stop and go getting out of the city, and maybe 50 miles of stop and go inner city traffic. Used Mercon SP, managed to fit 7 quarts in with the entire valve body out. Replaced the bridge seals, tube seals, sleeve, and of course the filter. All OE ZF parts were used, sourced from eBay.

End result: Much faster, almost instant when shifting into reverse or drive. Much smoother shifts under heavy acceleration, much better shifting in only low gears, the annoying clunk is gone when going from 1-2. When flooring it in 6th, there was also a clunk, that is no more.

Going to order another filter, and do the 2010 now. Hopefully as good of results without touching the bridge seal and all that, sleeve is not leaking.
 

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sounds good could you please detail your trans drain and refill procedure for the SC RR.
I wrote one for the 2005 truck but the this trans is different.
I was wondering if you could remove the trans cooler return line from the trans and let it drain into a waste bucket with the engine running,
Do you have a part number for the Ford fluid and the bridge seal and the 4 tubes and filter thanks again, Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I’ll see what I can do tomorrow morning Stan

Was very easy, similar to the 5HP24, minus a few things

I have eBay on my phone, so easy enough to paste down the part numbers..I do believe most of these are BMW part numbers, however put it is how to find these parts most inexpensively..

1x BMW 24 10 7519314 sealing tube

2x BMW 24 10 7519315 sealing tube

1x BMW 24 34 7 588 725 mechatronic sleeve

1x ZF 0501.216.243 I bought from here https://m.ebay.com/itm/OEM-ZF6HP26-6HP28-6HP32-TRANSMISSION-FILTER-0501-216-243-PLASTIC-PAN-NEW-/253122231087?_ul=MX#vi__app-cvip-panel

Great seller, included a page from ZF with instructions to do the job.

I’ll write an instructional to do the job tomorrow morning or early afternoon. I’ll post it here and a new thread.



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Can’t edit my post - fluid was Ford Mercon SP, with the research I did I found that it only has a 2% difference from LG6. I felt safe using it. Picked it up from a random Ford/Lincoln dealer. If they ask what vehicle you are using it in, say 2007 Lincoln Navigator. It used the fluid..


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Well, I spent longer on this than I expected.. but here you all go.

Short 6HP26/28 Fluid Change Writeup - For 2006-2012 L322s

First of all, you’ll need a few things:

6 Quarts of TYK500050 Lifeguard 6 or XT6QSP Ford Motorcraft MerconSP, SP has a 2% difference to LG6, safe to use as an inexpensive alternative

A LR007474 ZF Filtran filter, a metal pan for the L322 is not necessary. Can be found on eBay for around $75, OE

Nitrile gloves are optional. I do recommend having some good heat resistant gloves that are fairly thin.

A simple hand pump that can suck fluid out of the bottle into the transmission, I used one from Pennzoil bought from Walmart, it worked fairly well and took fluid quickly.

A variety of tools, all metric. Variety of torx, open end wrench (or ratcheting wrench), ¼ drive ratchet and short socket 8mm, 10mm, ¾ drive ratchet, ¾ drive long extension, ¾ drive 10mm, electric impact does wonders. I apologize for not recording all tool sizes.

Step one: Get the vehicle up to where you can work on the transmission, you’ll need a good bit of room depending on your size. I found it easiest to use a four post lift. Make sure whatever you’re working on is stable, you will have to start, stop, and keep your truck running up for the fill procedure.

After it is set up, make yourself comfortable with the underside of your transmission and the areas around it. You will be working with the plastic black pan that is there. Find the 3 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield on, and remove them. The heat shield should now be able to shift off.

Next are four bolts for the transmission guard. Two are each side. These can be taken out with a ratcheting 8mm wrench on the drivers side (US), and with a short 8mm socket on the passenger. The shift cable may need to be moved to be able to fit a wrench. There are two 8mm bolts holding it on, the one closer to the rear of the vehicle can be removed, and the bolt to the front loosened a tad. You should now be able to completely remove the guard.

Find the fill plug for the trans, it should be on the right side (looking to the front of the vehicle) in the back of the trans. You will need to undo this plug, keep a pan underneath in case any oil finds its way out.

Next, use an oil pan and undo the main drain bolt, let drain until a drip. Replace the drain bolt hand tight.

Start with an impact in short bursts to just crack loose the bolts. Start undoing the bolts holding the pan on. Do all from ends to middle, leaving one bolt in to hold the pan until you can grip it and undo the last bolt. The pan will have fluid in it, and will leak from the filter.

Use non-chlorinated brake clean and a rag to clean all around the transmission and valve body. Clean the gasket mating surface of the transmission with a bit of scotchbrite pad. Wipe again with clean rag, and find the new pan.

With the new pan, make sure that no oil has gotten onto the mating surfaces of either the pan or transmission. Do put a bit of oil new or used onto the o ring of the filter. Line the filter up with the hole it sits in, does not take much force but it is a snug fit. Start putting bolts in from middle out. Use the included diagram from ZF, a photo will be put below. Torque to 10NM.

Install the bolts for the shift cable.

Follow instructions for fill on the diagram from ZF included in the filter,

A) Transmissions fluid level checking.
1) The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature.
2) The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed and air conditioning turned on.
3) Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position.
4) With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct.
5) If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low and oil needs to be added until it overflows.
6) With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque.

B) Adding fluid after repairs.
1) With the engine stopped and the transmission in Park position, remove the oil filler plug. Add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out.
2) Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Start the engine.
3) With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand.
4) Follow the “Transmission fluid level checking” procedure described in section A) above.

C) Notes on fluid level and adding procedure.
1) Use only ZF*LifeguardFluid6 or OE approved transmission fluid.
2) If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure the resulting oil level will be to low. Let the transmission cool down and repeat the fluid level procedure.
3) Have transmission fluid and a suitable oil pump available before starting the fluid level procedure. The transmission fluid temperature will rise quickly during the checking procedure.


Install the fill plug for the final time, torque to 35NM + 3.5NM, if not replacing pan, torque the drain bolt to 8NM

(KEEP IN MIND HOT CATALYTIC CONVERTER AT THIS POINT) Undo the bolt for the shift cable, and install the transmission guard back. Torque until tight, don’t overdo it keep in mind its into aluminium. Torque the shift cable bolts to the same approximate torque.

Clean any oil residue from frame, keep in mind catalytic converter is hot, do not spray with brake clean.

Re install heat shield.

Take for a test drive!

 

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I have a intermittent slow engage on drive or reverse on first start with my 2008 TDV8. Sometimes the car drives straight off and sometimes it takes up to three shuffles between drive and park before the drive will engage.

I have changed the filter, solenoids and mechatronic seals on the ZF 6HP26 and the delay is still there. Box shifts a lot smoother than it was before but no difference on the intermittent delay to engage drive. So, I'm assuming low or slow pressure build up or could it be a software delay as the box is fine when engaged and could pull a train.
 
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