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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving down down the freeway today “cruise on” and out of no where I get the “cruse control not available message with the triangle”.

i then noticed that the RPM’s would jump to 3,500 then back down to idle then back to 4K and down to idle. There was a wining noise so I threw it in neutral and coasted off the freeway.

I shut the the car off and waited a minute then started it back up. As I put the car in drive I hear a winning noise again but stops in neutral. I had a officer help push me farther off the road and down a hill to where I was safer. As I put the car in park on the slope, it started to continue forward until I put the parking brake on.

What would this this be, tranny, torque converter, or some electronic switch?

i know it’s not the rear diff, because the parking break held. Also, there was no leaking of any fluid nor shavings from the vehicle.

Any help would be great. Currently working with the dealer to hear what they find.
 

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I don’t understand the link you’ve made between the parking brake and the rear diff.? The parking brake acts directly at the wheels.

The fact that the transmission park lock doesn’t hold implies that the problem is downstream of the transmission output e.g. a transfer box or driveshaft issue.

You don’t state which model you have, and five different transmissions were fitted to the L322 during its 10 year production life, so I’ll just have a guess that your vehicle is fitted with the ZF 6HP26 transmission. The reason I’ve picked on this particular transmission is because it’s not uncommon for the spline on the output shaft to fail through fretting corrosion due to the special grease being left off during assembly.





Phil
 

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My 06 RR hse did the exact same thing, I had it towed to a transmission shop, they said my front passenger axle had come partly out, they said they put it back in. I haven’t had any other issues. I was having problems with my air suspension where one side would drop down and they told me that might have caused my axle to come out. They checked and inspected my transmission and everything was good. It was a $65 fix( not counting the tow)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a 2010 RR HSE.

So i am not well educated on the transmission in this vehicle. Are you saying that the output shaft on the transmission can be fixed separately? or do i need a completely new transmission?

I saw some videos on how to replace the transfer box and it seems fairly easy. I need to pull my service records because i know i had a major service done on that vehicle to where they changed all those fluids at 90k or 100k.

As the car was in park and still rolling forward i can hear what i think is the driveshaft still turning. I am assuming that is a good thing because there was no loud clanking noise just a smooth rotation sound.

I appreciate the advice and input.


I don’t understand the link you’ve made between the parking brake and the rear diff.? The parking brake acts directly at the wheels.

The fact that the transmission park lock doesn’t hold implies that the problem is downstream of the transmission output e.g. a transfer box or driveshaft issue.

You don’t state which model you have, and five different transmissions were fitted to the L322 during its 10 year production life, so I’ll just have a guess that your vehicle is fitted with the ZF 6HP26 transmission. The reason I’ve picked on this particular transmission is because it’s not uncommon for the spline on the output shaft to fail through fretting corrosion due to the special grease being left off during assembly.

Phil
 

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So if you have the 5.0 litre V8 petrol engine you have the ZF 6HP28 transmission. The transmission output shaft can be replaced, but clearly the transmission would have to come out and be rebuilt – quite a big job.





It would be much better to check for simpler causes first e.g. driveshafts (as don k suggests) or the transfer box. Someone needs to be (safely) looking underneath the vehicle while it’s happening to see if any of the propshafts/driveshafts are turning while the vehicle is stationary.

Phil
 

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So I got the call from the Dealer today. They said there is a noise coming from the transfer box. Total to fix out the door is $4,400. But they said they would have to look at the output shaft as well and that will cost another $6k to get a transmission if that was damaged.

Any advice? Could the Transfer box go first and the transmission would go into a fault safe mode preventing that further damage?

Getting the tech notes now and i will post them.
 

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I had my rover at the dealership getting precautionary maintenance, I looked at the work order and they were going to charge me $350 to clean rubbish from my radiator. Prior to having them do it I went out with the technician/ mechanic and went over the work to be preformed . It was a few pine needles and he was just going to blow them out with a blow off. I lost faith in going to the dealership. That’s why I took mine to the transmission shop
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had my rover at the dealership getting precautionary maintenance, I looked at the work order and they were going to charge me $350 to clean rubbish from my radiator. Prior to having them do it I went out with the technician/ mechanic and went over the work to be preformed . It was a few pine needles and he was just going to blow them out with a blow off. I lost faith in going to the dealership. That’s why I took mine to the transmission shop

im taking mine to an Indy shop. I made the dealer draw me up something for a new velar as the car sits and I’m waiting to hear back. But if not a good
deal then I’m off to another location to get it fixed.

My biggest concern is that I don’t know if the transmission output is actually damaged. I’m looking to see if there some type a failsafe I keep that from being damaged. I did not get any transmission error on my dash. Just a cruise control not available.
 

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When my problem occurred I was driving and started a small incline in the road, no warning lights no anything. It lost all power and wouldn’t go into park or any gears. I had to shut it off to get it to go into park. I started it back up and put it in drive and it sounded like it was slipping and wouldn’t move and again it wouldn’t go into park. It acted like there was no atf fluid but that’s not what it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I canceled my service at the dealer and got it towed again to a Independant shop down that road with experience. He said they would look it over and give me a shout. They mentioned they have had similar experiences before but they were simple fixes like driveshafts and or a gear. So I’m crossing my fingers and I’ll keep you all updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So it is the Transfer Case. Trans is good though. So the question is... does anyone know where i can get one cheap?
 

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Sorry to hear that it wasn’t something less expensive. There is a Rover parts yard near Pittsburgh, I cannot remember the name. They have almost everything. I’ve seen them on eBay guaranteed for under $400. Good luck
 
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