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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a new member to this site and a 4 time Rover owner since 2000, I have truly enjoyed the vehicles and their experiences. Unfortunately, I was only introduced to your website a couple of month's ago which means I missed out on all the great info over the last years.

I have always performed most maintenance myself as I enjoy doing so, which led me to this posting today..
My latest purchase, several month's ago was a 2010 RRS HSE Lux.
The oil requirement as stated by the manual and dealer is Castrol SLX 5w-20 which as you are aware is dealer specific, cannot be purchased anywhere and supposedly will void the warranty if not used. The oil service at my dealer as well as othe LR dealers in the Metro area have been quoted at $299-$325 for this service. I am aware the first service is complimentary, however, I do not wish to wait for 15,000 miles as I believe this is excessive given the type of driving I do. The mileage is approaching 7500 and as the vehicle is owned and not leased, I would rather use lower 7500 mileage intervals.

Several questions:
1) The manual states only Castrol SLX 5W-20 be used, meeting the WSS-M2C925-A application as well as the ILSAC GF-4 requirement. However, in case a quart of oil is needed, any oil meeting the ILSAC-4 requirement can be used. Mobil 1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5W-20 meets both requirements and is suitable for Jaguar/Land Rover applications (as stated on their description of this product). If this oil meets the spec, shouldn't these oils be compatible and therefore interchangeable for a complete oil change? Mobil 1 is available at most auto stores at a cost of approx $7.00/qt vs. $17-$19 for the Castrol product as quoted by the dealers.
2) I have been told the oil can only be siphoned thru the fill port, yet the service manual ( topix) clearly shows and describes oil changes via a drain plug on the pan. Any help on this one?
3) Any feeling on the warranty issue should a "different" oil be used ( Mobil 1 vs. Castrol) ?

The dealers all agree any oil must meet the spec, but have no answer to this question.

Thanks

2)
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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First of all, congratulations and welcome.

As long as the specs of the oil are fully matching with the manufacturer's recommendations, I don't believe you would void any warranties by using the the more widely available Mobil 1 over the impossible to source Castrol SLX.

Regarding the drain plug on new 2010+ petrol engines, there were conflicting reports at their launch that the new engines didn't have one anymore (indeed, the Jaguar version of both normally aspirated and S/C 5-liters do not have a drain plug and oil can only be siphoned out from above.) However, as you mentioned the LR workshop manual lists both draining and vacuuming methods for draining oil from these engines, and on some other LR4 forums a few owners who have already performed their own oil change reported the drain plug is indeed there... I guess the only way to make sure is to slide under the car and remove the engine shield, but I think (hope) you will still find an old fashioned plug there. :pray:
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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What he said.

Although if there is no drain plug I would seriously consider taking the pan off and tap it for one...

Here in the US the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act prohibits denial of a claim if you use the appropriate replacement.

But since you spelled "Liter", "Litre" you may be in another country?

Btw, why doesn't anyone put where they're from in their profile??? :doh:
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,175 Posts
mels said:
I am from NJ
My condolences. :D

If you do get under there yourself, let us know what you find! I'm curious.

The sump's bigger on this engine than the previous ones, so maybe a 10K interval with the synthetic is not a bad interval.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
............... so maybe a 10K interval with the synthetic is not a bad interval.
5W-20 .. synthetic - you think :)

From an Oil Forum I follow:

M1EP 5w20 is SUITABLE for use in vehicles recommending that spec. Mobil doesnt even list it as meets or exceeds.. its listed specifically as "suitable" whatever that means. So in other words this is one of the plays on words that oil companies use.. "recommended for" etc

Another from that Forum - if we use the same engine as the Jag - here is a extract from their training newsletter

· Stable viscosity for sustainable performance
· Improved engine cleanliness and engine protection
· Better ability to compensate for various driving styles

There are several features your new Jaguar customers should know about:

· The new Castrol oil, SLX Professional 5W-20, is the only oil recommended for the new 5.0L AJ V8 engines
· A service reminder in the Message Center lets the driver know when it's time to change oil
· Service Interval is every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first. It's important that your customers visit your Jaguar dealership yearly for annual service
· The first scheduled maintenance service visit is Complimentary
· Maintenance Interval Message automatically appears when it's time for service
· Checking the oil level is simple using the built-in "digital dipstick" on the car's onboard computer. The new engine does not have a traditional dipstick

The Jaguar/Castrol co-engineered 5.0L engine 5W-20 synthetic motor oil is the only lubricant completely tested to be compatible with Jaguar’s new engine components and other fluids and sealants. No substitutions should be made as the warranty coverage requires the use of the proper Jaguar specified lubricant.
 

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Premium Member
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Here's how that went down:
A *fiction* play by Gooseyloosey

--------------------------------------
Cast:
Castrol Lubes Marketing Manager Europe (CLMME)
Nigel Rathbone--JLR Engine Technology Manager

Scene:
JLR Headquarters
---------------------------------------
CLMME: Hey, what can we do to get the initial fill business in the new 5.0L you guys are making?
Nigel: Couple of things, need extended drain interval, low vis for fuel economy, and the best price.
CLMM: No problem, can do our 5W-20 synthetic for $2.29/qt.
Nigel (whispering): I need you to go lower than that to be competitive. Not saying what, but I need a better price from you.

2 days later...

CLMME: Hey Nigel good news. We can do $2.09, but if you accept I need you to write me into the spec.
Nigel: For $2.09, consider it done.

;)
 

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Kinda hard to ruin the warrantee if the engine oil is changed twice as much. But bring it to the dealer and bring your own oil and change it quicker. Just pay for the oil change. all we do is spend six minutes sucking it out. and two minutes changing the filter. if the engine is hot its easy. its a pressure operated vacuum that basically sucks it out from the bottom.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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rrtoadhall said:
Wouldn't that be a friction play? :think:
Oil have to think about that... :think:


The boss said:
Just pay for the oil change. all we do is spend six minutes sucking it out. and two minutes changing the filter. if the engine is hot its easy. its a pressure operated vacuum that basically sucks it out from the bottom.
Boss, so does the '10+ also have a drain plug for those at home that might prefer to use Newton's Law instead of Bernoulli's Law to change the oil?
 

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The boss said:
Kinda hard to ruin the warrantee if the engine oil is changed twice as much. But bring it to the dealer and bring your own oil and change it quicker. Just pay for the oil change. all we do is spend six minutes sucking it out. and two minutes changing the filter. if the engine is hot its easy. its a pressure operated vacuum that basically sucks it out from the bottom.
+12 minutes to drive it to the bay
+10 minutes tech spends reading the oil purchased and discussing it with other techs and laughing that the guy who purchased it is a chump or PITA
+15 to pour oil into engine
+5 min to reset all indicators
+15 minutes washing (scratching \ adding swirls to paint)
+10 minutes to do paper work
+10 minutes to explain what was done and what services you need in the future
+5 minutes to pay the Pay the bill

So you just spent approx 1.5 hours - any one need a six sigma consultant to improve the OC process :)
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Nice Frisco.

I wish I was near the Boss's dealership, 'cause I would go there...it sounds like a good place. I believe its in PA though.

That reminds me,

Q: Why did the pencil from NJ cross the river?
A: To get to pencil-vania
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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I got under my 2010 Sport Supercharged 5.0 Saturday, pulled the 10 bolts holding the skid plate on and YES, it has an oil drain plug. Very easy to do, just takes a few extra minutes. The skid plate has 2 spacers on the aft end so when you put the plate back on, install 2 bolts on each side of the plate near the front to balance it and then install the aft 2 bolts thru the plate and spacers, then put all the remaining bolts in before tightening them.
 

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Fellas,
quite a bit of wrong info here.
I had come here to learn if someone had found and even better oil, then it became apparent that most dont know WHY castrol SLX is used in the first place.
Direct injection manufacturers have had a nightmare with carbon buildup, do a gog search for carbon buildip audi, mini, or vw, even ford, its a nightmare in as little as 60k miles. Jaguar has remained unscathed, this oil is the reason for it. Developed inconjuction to specificallysolve that problem. There is a great video on utube with some guy testing castrol proffesional and there is only a fraction of the buildup/coke, the title of the video is "Castrol edge vs BMW 5w30 oil contest"

I have a jag with the supercharged version of this engine, its one of the most incredible engines ever made in every way, thats why the same engine can be used in a sports car and heavy suv alike, try doing that with a ferrari or boxer engine. It absolutely has that spirit of the Rolls Royce Merlin engine. Why would I want to put anything less than the best in this beauty.

cheers
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Quite a bit of wrong info... You sound like an expert. Are you in the motor oil industry, or can you cite / link some reputable studies (Russian YouTube videos don't count...), stating that JLR engines have less carbon buildup issues than other manufacturers of Direct Injection engines due to the Castrol oil they use? I have done quite a bit of research myself on carbon buildup in DI engines, and I haven't found any evidence that oil plays a part in either preventing or promoting carbon buildup - unless you don't change oil and filter frequently enough.
 

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Fellas,
quite a bit of wrong info here.
I had come here to learn if someone had found and even better oil, then it became apparent that most dont know WHY castrol SLX is used in the first place.
Direct injection manufacturers have had a nightmare with carbon buildup, do a gog search for carbon buildip audi, mini, or vw, even ford, its a nightmare in as little as 60k miles. Jaguar has remained unscathed, this oil is the reason for it. Developed inconjuction to specificallysolve that problem. There is a great video on utube with some guy testing castrol proffesional and there is only a fraction of the buildup/coke, the title of the video is "Castrol edge vs BMW 5w30 oil contest"

I have a jag with the supercharged version of this engine, its one of the most incredible engines ever made in every way, thats why the same engine can be used in a sports car and heavy suv alike, try doing that with a ferrari or boxer engine. It absolutely has that spirit of the Rolls Royce Merlin engine. Why would I want to put anything less than the best in this beauty.

cheers

I owned an Audi and worked at an Audi Dealership.... Their engines are not known for carbon buildup. They are known for oil leaks, sludge and high burning of oil.

the 1.8T's were notorious for the oil leak along the Valve Cover gasket and sludge. This was later taken care of by doing a recall and replacing all the engines as there was a huge design flaw with the 1.8T's that caused the sludge. Bottom line, regular and slightly more frequent oil changes took car of this but the VC oil leak issue was touch and go.

the 2.0Ts were famous for burning oil. Owners would come in twice a week to buy oil and top it off. For this reason I always steered friends and family away from the 2.0 engines. This was finally addressed in a recall.

Other than that there are no carbon issues that I am aware of. And again, this issue can, for the most part be kept low threat by simply using good gas and changing the oil regularly, not every 100000000 miles like the manual says. I'm exaggerating but you get the point. I reckon that carbon buildup could be kept to a minimum in the 5.0's as well if you just changed the oil regularly and often as well as use good gas. I use Castrol Edge Titanium in mine and replace it ever 5-6000 KILOMETRES... That's what, 4 American inches? ;)
 
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