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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, really hoping someone on here can help me as I'm running out of ideas. I'm pretty new to the P38 and clearly don't know what I'm doing. The source of frustration is a 2002 Motronic 4.6.

Went on holiday for three weeks, came back to a dead battery which wouldn't charge with my Optimate. Bought a more heavy duty new one which is twice the size of the last one and have been insuring it's fully charged before trying to start the car. The car is cranking nicely but won't catch.

Bought a Nanocom Evo to check immobilisation codes and they match on the BeCM and ECU, reaffirmed by the orange engine check light on the dash and the Nanocom telling me that it's not immobilised. Oddly the immobilisation code on both the BeCM and the ECU are only 3 digits long rather than 4 which is what I was expecting, but the codes are the same and everything else points to it being in sync. The Nanocom also tells me the fuel pump is on when I try to start it (although not when I switch it to ignition II which I thought was strange as I assumed it would prime before cranking).

I've checked all the fuses and swapped a few relays around, and have also pressed the inertia switch. Today I went and bought a pressure testing kit, finally located the schrader valve and when cranking am seeing just under 3.5 bar, which then settles and holds at around 3 bar after (when the car isn't running).

So I don't think it's a sync issue, fuses and inertia switch are fine, and it seems to be fuelling ok. Will be checking a spark plug tomorrow when it gets light again, but failing that I'm out of ideas. Any help would be massively appreciated!

Cheers!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,423 Posts
It would be quite a coincidence, but is it possible that your CPS has decided to take this moment to fail? Has it exhibited any stalling in the past?
I ~think~ the pump should run in pos II. can't check mine to be sure as I am away. Have you tried jumping the fuel pump relay to check pressure?
Check this thread as it seems to cover your issue as well...... (Search is your best friend)
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...-schrader-valve-pressure-question-2002-a.html
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Bolt.

So I've not had any rough running of the engine at all to date and haven't been rummaging around down there so not sure I would have disturbed any wiring (I hope).

I checked the fuel pressure and it's looking fine, and I get some fuel that out the schrader when I release it each time, so think fuelling is ok.

I have just checked for a spark though and am not getting anything (but they are wet with fuel), so wondering if it is still related to the alarm somehow, despite Nanocom telling me the immobiliser isn't on. Just waiting for it to charge and will pull the negative terminal and try to start it so it thinks it's stolen. Hoping if I go through the EKA procedure again it might do something miraculous as I remember reading somewhere that if you mess up the process somehow, the key will unlock and the starter will work, but it won't actually fire.

When I unlock the car and switch the ignition on, my key doesn't blink (can't say I've noticed it do it before). Could that suggest that it's not communicating properly, despite the orange engine light on the dash and the fact that Nanocom is telling me the immobiliser is off?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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So, you have a properly synchronised working key fob remote?
If so, then unlocking the door with it, would mean they are synced, and starting should be no problem. It does unlock and lock the doors?
The nano telling you Immobliser is off, is simply reporting that Passive Immobilisation is turned off, not that it is not immobilised. Not the issue here.
No spark with wet plugs does sort of say CPS. They are known to fail. Try the plug for it, be sure it is clean and tight. Check the harness to be sure some rodent has not been snacking.
BTW, I keep a spare, known to be good CPS In the cubby of both my 02's as it is one of the few things that can truly strand you.
 

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Sounds like the CPS. They usually start as occasional start problems followed by complete fail. But if it turns out not to be the issue, you will then have a spare like Bolt. They don't cost much either.
 

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When I unlock the car and switch the ignition on, my key doesn't blink (can't say I've noticed it do it before). Could that suggest that it's not communicating properly, despite the orange engine light on the dash and the fact that Nanocom is telling me the immobiliser is off?
The key will only blink if passive immobilisation is turned ON in the BeCM (and the coil around the ignition switch is working which they often don't). With it turned OFF it won't cause it to blink as there is no need. The Immobiliser ON/OFF in the BeCM only controls passive immobilisation which kicks in if you don't turn the ignition on within 30 seconds of unlocking the car.

It is only on the GEMS (pre-99) cars that no sync doesn't light the Check Engine light, I think it lights even when not synced on a Thor. It is all beginning to sound like a failed CPS or wiring to it. A bit of a coincidence if it failed just after a flat battery though.
 
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