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Discussion Starter #1
A friend a gave me a 4.6 HSE and it leaks coolant, and its over heating.

I called few mechanics around my area all of them charged dealer price $2000-2500.

I live in Raleigh-Durham NC area. I'm looking for a land rover mechanics around the area or a Forum Member from here will do the job for me for a good price.

I work on my own land rovers by myself, but head gasket is new to me so I don't want to mess with it yet till I learned from an experienced person.

So please if you have any information on a mechanic, or you can help me fix it (Will Pay) please reply or PM and see if we can set up a date and you come and take a look at it.

Thanks.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Download Rave and do it yourself. If you have the time and the tools, you can do it. It's pretty tough to mess anything up.

(says the guy who has never done one on a RR)
 

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also coming from a guy who hasn't done it yet... doesn't look too bad.

take a look at the DVD In Search of the Experience. It has a section on the DVD that goes through a video of changing the head gasket. I think it is about 45 minutes of video and has common issues, special tools needed etc. It is very informative if you haven't done it yet. Well worth the $15 and a cool video to boot.

http://insearchoftheexperience.com/

good luck!
 

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it's not that bad, aside from having the heads rebuilt and/or skimmed, you can do it in a weekend.

Read the WS manual through a couple times and ensure you have the right torque wrench.

http://www.aluminumv8.com has a gasket kit and the ARP head studs, DEFINITELY go with the head studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for the reply, I'll take a look at the all your recommendations.

Interms of tools which tools or where can get these tools.

Thanks again.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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drewdizzy said:
Interms of tools which tools or where can get these tools.
drewdizzy said:
I work on my own land rovers by myself,
:think:

Just basic stuff that you should already have, for the most part. Ratchets, sockets, wrenches, and a 3/8" torque wrench (I'm not sure if a 1/2" will work)

Whatever you don't have it's a perfect excuse to go buy a new tool. Read rave...it will give you a good idea of what you need.
 

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I've just done mine after hardly touching engines before,

Not too technically challenging at all, I was at a slight disadvantage that someone had already stripped half of it down so I couldn't think back to how it came apart.

I only had a 1/2" Torque wrench which would be ok for most of the stuff, but I liked to use the torque wrench for everything and it didn't go low enough for some of them, so I borrowed a friends calibrated snap-on 3/8 one which I used for everything.

Most of it is very standard metric sockets, the rocker cover bolts where the worst thing, they use an 8mm multi-spline head, so an 8mm hex socket won't work. Having searched through every socket set I own I found that they all switched to hex at 8mm, so had to go out and buy one after 3 shops I managed to find one but it was 3/8 and the shoulders didn't really fit in the hole correctly. You need a 1/4 inch drive multispline 8mm for it, and I still haven't seen one for sale in a shop! I ended up butchering an old imperial socket to fit.

Exhaust studs were also multispline but about 13mm so easy enough to find one that size.

I found the hardest part of the job was removing and replacing the exhaust heat shields and manifolds, the heat sheilds are an absolute pain. The exhaust manifold studs are OK mostly but the rear drivers side (rhd) is really difficult to get to.

The most delicate part was putting the heads back on, I would recommend an assistant, they're quite a soft metal and you have to line them up with a peg sticking up, if you miss I expect it would easily damage the surface.

I didn't have my heads machined, they appeared to be within tolerance so I cleaned them up but left them as they were.

I used standard replacement stretch bolts as I didn't know any better when I purchased them!


The whole job cost less than £100, I bought a full HG kit with manifold gasket etc and that covered most things with extras left over. The only thing I can remember buying extra was the O rings for the injectors.


I'm not 100% sure I've fixed it, and no idea how long it will last. I'm not overly confident in it yet but it did start up instantly first turn of the key once I finished! I've left it running for about half an hour with no over heating and I've taken it round the block with no issues. Next week I have the MOT test and have to drive it 10 miles so will no a little more after that!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone for your replies....I'll get the RAVE CD and start doing my homework

As for Heads get machined, why do you have to machine them......... and if you don't what are the problems might occur. And If I need to do so what kind of shop should i take it to so it can be machned and what re the cost too.


sotal said:
I've just done mine after hardly touching engines before,

Not too technically challenging at all.......

I'm not 100% sure I've fixed it, and no idea how long it will last. I'm not overly confident in it yet but it did start up instantly first turn of the key once I finished! I've left it running for about half an hour with no over heating and I've taken it round the block with no issues. Next week I have the MOT test and have to drive it 10 miles so will no a little more after that!
Lets us know how it went SOTAL.

Cheers!
 

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It failed the test :( (but did make it there and back)

I've put a post up about it, not sure what to think at the moment!

As for heads being machined, basically when they overheat they often warp the heads due to the extreme heat. I checked mine as best as I could by placing on sheet glass and using a feeler guage and it all appeared to be in tollerance so I left them. (Tolerances are in Rave)

I've heard that it can be bad to machine them though as most people don't check the block (much bigger job to remove the block and have it machined) and the two warp together, you then put the flat machined head back on to a warped block which makes it worse.

Some people have sworn by testing by placing the head back on the block and using a feeler guage between the two.
 
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