paul.adshead said:That's painful to look at. One upside is that it's one of the best pics I've seen showing the location of the crank position sensor!
:lol:
:lol: 
4.6 Callaway engine in 4.6 HSE
I just picked up a 98 HSE with a bad motor on Thursday. I just picked up a 4.6 from a '99 Callaway today. I know the top end is different, but what do I need to run it? I snagged the engine ECU and MAF, but the air intake tube and airbox were broken in half and missing. I also grabbed the transmission and transfer case. Other than a broken battery cover, and a single lug nut pressed into the mud, thats all that was left. I know the TCU is specific to this transmission, but unless it is located on the tranny itself, I do not have it.
I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?
Thanks in advance.
I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?
Thanks in advance.
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:lol:
:lol: The standard drivetrain should be comfortable with this extra power. It's not that much over the standard to make any difference. The standard powertain was designed to take 300bhp or so.nickm347 said:Roverrad95-
I do not have the front axle or the TCU. Honestly, I dont think I need to upgrade my diff. Its an extra 50lb of torque or something. I drive easy in my Rover, so I dont see it being an issue with the factor 2pin front diff and axles. I am going to use the Callaway Torque Converter and probably the transfer case for its gearing. While I have it all out, I may even put the Callaway transmission in, just because it has lower miles
Why the hell cant I find a Callaway 4.6 laying around? 8-0=
Use Valvoline VR1 with Lucas break in additive. Run for 3,000mi then switch off to Valvoline synthetic VR1. Use Wix filters since they are the only ones worth a ****. Please dont use Fram or anyother crappy filter, it will cause all you work to go to waste. / O'reilly Auto Parts sells the VR1 oils, Wix filters, and the additive. Use 20w50 til fall when the day time temp drops to the low 80s and high 70s and switch off to 10w30. Thats how I break in the Corvettes I build. 20w50 is fine til the low temp outside drops below 35-40 degrees. Then its 10w30 time.
Heres the VR1 Synthetic
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... otor-oil/8
O'reilly Auto Parts sells the VR1 oils, Wix filters, and the additive. Use 20w50 til fall when the day time temp drops to the low 80s and high 70s and switch off to 10w30. Thats how I break in the Corvettes I build. 20w50 is fine til the low temp outside drops below 35-40 degrees. Then its 10w30 time. Heres the VR1 Synthetic
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... otor-oil/8
When it gets cold, if you are using a 20W-50, why swap to 10W-30? :think:
Why not use a 5W-50? :thumb:
That would allow for cold morning starts, but still keep the same viscosity
at normal engine temp.
Why not use a 5W-50? :thumb:
That would allow for cold morning starts, but still keep the same viscosity
at normal engine temp.
Well I had a bit of a problem, and but I think its fixed now.
As you can see from the pic above, the crank position sensor is held in by 2 bolts to a round plate, which is then fitted to the block by a down pin for alignment and welded in.
I didnt realize it till I got it home, but the knuckle heads and the shop didnt remove the sensor, they just removed the entire plate. I took it back and they welded it in. It should be okay I hope. Anyone have any experience with something like this?
As you can see from the pic above, the crank position sensor is held in by 2 bolts to a round plate, which is then fitted to the block by a down pin for alignment and welded in.
I didnt realize it till I got it home, but the knuckle heads and the shop didnt remove the sensor, they just removed the entire plate. I took it back and they welded it in. It should be okay I hope. Anyone have any experience with something like this?
.........
I've just looked under the bonnet on my '97 4.6 auto, starting at the end of the wire I have: airbox temp (in airbox lid); MAF; emissions purge valve; then it merges into the loom under the throttle body. I.e. I don't have a connector like anywhere near there... :?: :?: :?: :?nickm347 said:Anyone know where this plug goes? Its on the part of the wiring harness, near the MAF plug, Purge Valve plug, Air Box sensor plug. Its blue and red, with a bit of grey. I had it labeled, but it was smeared with grease and I cannot read it anymore. I looked forever, and even had a friend look. Still cant fig it out. I check the RAVE for a wiring diagram, but if its in there I cannot find it. Even check the instructions to remove the harness. I may have overlooked it. Its a factory harness for the '98 4.6 HSE.
I took the time to label it, so I know it goes somehwere. These pics arent very good, but its the best I can do right now. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks
paul.adshead said:I've just looked under the bonnet on my '97 4.6 auto, starting at the end of the wire I have: airbox temp (in airbox lid); MAF; emissions purge valve; then it merges into the loom under the throttle body. I.e. I don't have a connector like anywhere near there... :?: :?: :?: :?nickm347 said:Anyone know where this plug goes? Its on the part of the wiring harness, near the MAF plug, Purge Valve plug, Air Box sensor plug. Its blue and red, with a bit of grey. I had it labeled, but it was smeared with grease and I cannot read it anymore. I looked forever, and even had a friend look. Still cant fig it out. I check the RAVE for a wiring diagram, but if its in there I cannot find it. Even check the instructions to remove the harness. I may have overlooked it. Its a factory harness for the '98 4.6 HSE.
I took the time to label it, so I know it goes somehwere. These pics arent very good, but its the best I can do right now. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Thankyou for looking. I really dont know where it goes. I guess I'll just leave it off and see if something doesnt work, or I get a fault. The '99 Callaway engine I rebuilt and put it has the same thing on its harness as well. Thanks again
I have just about everything together, so when I put the battery in I just about fried it. I have a short somewhere. I think I have something not hooked up right, and I think I know what it is. On the (+) side, the red cable goes to the fuse box, and there is another cable (mine is black, wrapped in plastic stuff to shield it) that goes somewhere else. Does anyone know where it goes?
Plus, a piece of advice. Never pull an engine, unless the one you are going to replace it with is ready to go. Even if you take it to the machine shop to have the bearings checked out and its only supposed to take a few days. You may decide to rebuild it, have a lack of communication in which parts are and arent ordered, and have it take 2 months. Long enough to remember how to put most of it back together, but not all of it.
Plus, a piece of advice. Never pull an engine, unless the one you are going to replace it with is ready to go. Even if you take it to the machine shop to have the bearings checked out and its only supposed to take a few days. You may decide to rebuild it, have a lack of communication in which parts are and arent ordered, and have it take 2 months. Long enough to remember how to put most of it back together, but not all of it.
It's great. I only have about 4k miles on it, but its got some decent kick with the stage 2 cam kit. well compared to my old 4.0 anyway.rover4x4 said:so hows that callaway?
I have the better geared transfer case, I need to put that it there before it gets too cold.
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
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