Also, while I have the engine out of the car, I am going to do head gaskets and inspect the bottom half (apparently 92k miles, but I cannot confirm). Will any GEMS 4.6 head gasket kit fit? I figured it would, but just wanted to double check.
4.6 Callaway engine in 4.6 HSE
I just picked up a 98 HSE with a bad motor on Thursday. I just picked up a 4.6 from a '99 Callaway today. I know the top end is different, but what do I need to run it? I snagged the engine ECU and MAF, but the air intake tube and airbox were broken in half and missing. I also grabbed the transmission and transfer case. Other than a broken battery cover, and a single lug nut pressed into the mud, thats all that was left. I know the TCU is specific to this transmission, but unless it is located on the tranny itself, I do not have it.
I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?
Thanks in advance.
I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the input. I have the Callaway ECU so I think I will be okay. The guy that pulled the engine pretty much ripped it out. Scratched the upper intake and dented the oil pan.kmagnuss said:Yes, you can use the stock air intake.
I can't remember off hand everything that made the callaway different... but IIRC it wasn't much more than a port and polish and a new map for the ECU..and exhaust.
I bet your current ecu would adapt to it just fine. It probably wouldn't pull all of the available power out of it, but I bet it would still be stronger than a standard 4.6. I'm sure someone with some actual experience or knowledge of the callaway will chime in, so in the meantime take what I say with a grain of salt...because I've been know to be full of it.
Nice find btw...
Thanks for the input
Since I have the engine out of the car, I am going to put on new headgaskets just to be safe. I was also thinking of putting a bigger cam in to help with performance. Does anyone have a camshaft suggestion that would work well?
Any links?
Thanks
Since I have the engine out of the car, I am going to put on new headgaskets just to be safe. I was also thinking of putting a bigger cam in to help with performance. Does anyone have a camshaft suggestion that would work well?
Any links?
Thanks
Thanks for the replies guys. I have decided just to keep the cam factory. Keep it simple and cheaper. I ordered a head gasket kit, water pump, thermostat, plugs wires and new belt today. Should be good. Also, FYI, according to the guys at Atlantic British, they do not make an oil pan gasket for the GEMS P38. They used a gasket sealer, which I confirmed when I looked at the engine. So if you are looking to replace the gasket, you wont find it listed anywhere.
I have another question about pulling out the original engine. I am going through the RAVE steps, but it is to pull the engine and tranny out together. Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.
Thanks
I have another question about pulling out the original engine. I am going through the RAVE steps, but it is to pull the engine and tranny out together. Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.
Thanks
............
shupack said:yep, you can.nickm347 said:Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.
Thanks
Any pointers on getting the bellhousing bolts off? I cant get my fat hands and a wrench back there at the same time.
Roverrad95-
I do not have the front axle or the TCU. Honestly, I dont think I need to upgrade my diff. Its an extra 50lb of torque or something. I drive easy in my Rover, so I dont see it being an issue with the factor 2pin front diff and axles. I am going to use the Callaway Torque Converter and probably the transfer case for its gearing. While I have it all out, I may even put the Callaway transmission in, just because it has lower miles
I do not have the front axle or the TCU. Honestly, I dont think I need to upgrade my diff. Its an extra 50lb of torque or something. I drive easy in my Rover, so I dont see it being an issue with the factor 2pin front diff and axles. I am going to use the Callaway Torque Converter and probably the transfer case for its gearing. While I have it all out, I may even put the Callaway transmission in, just because it has lower miles
..........
I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. They had it forever, there was some real bad communication going on with what parts I did and did not need. Finally back though. I went with a full rebuild with a crower cam kit. The short block is put back to gether, and all I need to do is put the heads, intake, lifters, flywheels etc on before I put it back in the car.
My questions is, what am I looking at for break in? I was going to use reg 10w40 to assemble the engine with and break in for 500 miles.Keep under a certain RPM/speed, then use synthetic the rest of its life.
Any one have any experience, or a good source/advice on breaking in a 4.6?
thanks
My questions is, what am I looking at for break in? I was going to use reg 10w40 to assemble the engine with and break in for 500 miles.Keep under a certain RPM/speed, then use synthetic the rest of its life.
Any one have any experience, or a good source/advice on breaking in a 4.6?
thanks
Well I had a bit of a problem, and but I think its fixed now.
As you can see from the pic above, the crank position sensor is held in by 2 bolts to a round plate, which is then fitted to the block by a down pin for alignment and welded in.
I didnt realize it till I got it home, but the knuckle heads and the shop didnt remove the sensor, they just removed the entire plate. I took it back and they welded it in. It should be okay I hope. Anyone have any experience with something like this?
As you can see from the pic above, the crank position sensor is held in by 2 bolts to a round plate, which is then fitted to the block by a down pin for alignment and welded in.
I didnt realize it till I got it home, but the knuckle heads and the shop didnt remove the sensor, they just removed the entire plate. I took it back and they welded it in. It should be okay I hope. Anyone have any experience with something like this?
.........
paul.adshead said:I've just looked under the bonnet on my '97 4.6 auto, starting at the end of the wire I have: airbox temp (in airbox lid); MAF; emissions purge valve; then it merges into the loom under the throttle body. I.e. I don't have a connector like anywhere near there... :?: :?: :?: :?nickm347 said:Anyone know where this plug goes? Its on the part of the wiring harness, near the MAF plug, Purge Valve plug, Air Box sensor plug. Its blue and red, with a bit of grey. I had it labeled, but it was smeared with grease and I cannot read it anymore. I looked forever, and even had a friend look. Still cant fig it out. I check the RAVE for a wiring diagram, but if its in there I cannot find it. Even check the instructions to remove the harness. I may have overlooked it. Its a factory harness for the '98 4.6 HSE.
I took the time to label it, so I know it goes somehwere. These pics arent very good, but its the best I can do right now. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Thankyou for looking. I really dont know where it goes. I guess I'll just leave it off and see if something doesnt work, or I get a fault. The '99 Callaway engine I rebuilt and put it has the same thing on its harness as well. Thanks again
I have just about everything together, so when I put the battery in I just about fried it. I have a short somewhere. I think I have something not hooked up right, and I think I know what it is. On the (+) side, the red cable goes to the fuse box, and there is another cable (mine is black, wrapped in plastic stuff to shield it) that goes somewhere else. Does anyone know where it goes?
Plus, a piece of advice. Never pull an engine, unless the one you are going to replace it with is ready to go. Even if you take it to the machine shop to have the bearings checked out and its only supposed to take a few days. You may decide to rebuild it, have a lack of communication in which parts are and arent ordered, and have it take 2 months. Long enough to remember how to put most of it back together, but not all of it.
Plus, a piece of advice. Never pull an engine, unless the one you are going to replace it with is ready to go. Even if you take it to the machine shop to have the bearings checked out and its only supposed to take a few days. You may decide to rebuild it, have a lack of communication in which parts are and arent ordered, and have it take 2 months. Long enough to remember how to put most of it back together, but not all of it.
It's great. I only have about 4k miles on it, but its got some decent kick with the stage 2 cam kit. well compared to my old 4.0 anyway.rover4x4 said:so hows that callaway?
I have the better geared transfer case, I need to put that it there before it gets too cold.
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