[nickm347]

I just picked up a 98 HSE with a bad motor on Thursday. I just picked up a 4.6 from a '99 Callaway today. I know the top end is different, but what do I need to run it? I snagged the engine ECU and MAF, but the air intake tube and airbox were broken in half and missing. I also grabbed the transmission and transfer case. Other than a broken battery cover, and a single lug nut pressed into the mud, thats all that was left. I know the TCU is specific to this transmission, but unless it is located on the tranny itself, I do not have it.

I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?

Thanks in advance.

 

[nickm347]

Also, while I have the engine out of the car, I am going to do head gaskets and inspect the bottom half (apparently 92k miles, but I cannot confirm). Will any GEMS 4.6 head gasket kit fit? I figured it would, but just wanted to double check.

 

[kmagnuss]

Yes, you can use the stock air intake.

I can't remember off hand everything that made the callaway different... but IIRC it wasn't much more than a port and polish and a new map for the ECU..and exhaust.

I bet your current ecu would adapt to it just fine. It probably wouldn't pull all of the available power out of it, but I bet it would still be stronger than a standard 4.6. I'm sure someone with some actual experience or knowledge of the callaway will chime in, so in the meantime take what I say with a grain of salt...because I've been know to be full of it.

Nice find btw...

 

[nickm347]

Yes, you can use the stock air intake.

I can't remember off hand everything that made the callaway different... but IIRC it wasn't much more than a port and polish and a new map for the ECU..and exhaust.

I bet your current ecu would adapt to it just fine. It probably wouldn't pull all of the available power out of it, but I bet it would still be stronger than a standard 4.6. I'm sure someone with some actual experience or knowledge of the callaway will chime in, so in the meantime take what I say with a grain of salt...because I've been know to be full of it.

Nice find btw...

Thanks for the input. I have the Callaway ECU so I think I will be okay. The guy that pulled the engine pretty much ripped it out. Scratched the upper intake and dented the oil pan.

 

[dutchfrompredator]

i'll try and find a pic of my engine. i have no doubt you caqn make it work. i will tell you the intake from the air box to the plenum is larger and carbon fiber. it had k&m stock (and still does in mine), and different compression and more ponies. if i remember correctly, you want the post '99 drivetrain to handle it, so make sure you're torgue bearing parts are in order. that's at the minimum. there are other items that need adjustment i believe...i'll see f i can find some info.

 

[nickm347]

Thanks for the input

Since I have the engine out of the car, I am going to put on new headgaskets just to be safe. I was also thinking of putting a bigger cam in to help with performance. Does anyone have a camshaft suggestion that would work well?
Any links?

Thanks

 

[kmagnuss]

I'm not sure who else makes a cam besides RPI. You could probably have one custom made...but that might get a little pricey.

 

[Rich998a]

Email http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ and see what they suggest. You have some choices. Piper do a modified RV8 fast road unit. JE Engineering do one as well which IIRC is called the JE-101...

The Callaway project is very interesting. One of the LR magazines did a write up about it about 6 months ago. I think Land Rover were getting 20 horses less than they were advertising and asked Callaway to try and put the problem right. :doh:

 

[shupack]

crower does a cam as well, but it needs a bit of a massage to fit the 4.0/4.6 instead of the intended 3.9/4.2.

http://www.aluminumV8.com

 

[nickm347]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have decided just to keep the cam factory. Keep it simple and cheaper. I ordered a head gasket kit, water pump, thermostat, plugs wires and new belt today. Should be good. Also, FYI, according to the guys at Atlantic British, they do not make an oil pan gasket for the GEMS P38. They used a gasket sealer, which I confirmed when I looked at the engine. So if you are looking to replace the gasket, you wont find it listed anywhere.

I have another question about pulling out the original engine. I am going through the RAVE steps, but it is to pull the engine and tranny out together. Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks

 

[Chris X]

Thanks for the tip on the oil pan gasket nick - that's on my spring "to-do" list. I won't waste my time trying to hunt one down. Much obliged.

 

[shupack]

Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks

yep, you can.

 

[nickm347]

............

 

[nickm347]

Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks

yep, you can.

Any pointers on getting the bellhousing bolts off? I cant get my fat hands and a wrench back there at the same time.

 

[Roverrad95]

I kind of skimmed through, but are you going to keep it Callaway? IF SO, read:

"The Callaway drivetrain was also modified. The automatic transmission used in the Callaway 4.6 HSE Range has a different torque converter and the transmission control unit (TCU) has been recalibrated to take advantage of the increased torque and power of the engine. The shift points in both "NORMAL" and "SPORT" modes have been changed to match the engine's increased power.

The electronic shift transfer case has a new ratio sprocket set and chain. The resulting new ratios provide a high range ratio of 1.294:1, and a low range ratio of 3.481:1. The ratio change improves acceleration performance in high range while also providing improved off-road "crawl" performance and coast down rates in low range.

The front axle shafts used on the Callaway 4.6 HSE have been strengthened to withstand the increased torque to the front wheels from the engine and transmission changes. A material change in the axles ensures durability will be maintained for the front axle half shafts. <>

Callaway decided to use a four-pin front differential to accommodate the increased torque rather than the two-pin front diff used on standard production Range Rovers. After working with Callaway on the four pin front diff Land Rover decided to put them in all of the 1999 Range Rovers since the 4 wheel traction control that added ABS regulated traction control to the front axle in 1999 also put extra stress on the front diff (Range Rovers from 1993-1998 only had traction control on the rear axle)"

(pulled from the main site)

 

[nickm347]

Roverrad95-
I do not have the front axle or the TCU. Honestly, I dont think I need to upgrade my diff. Its an extra 50lb of torque or something. I drive easy in my Rover, so I dont see it being an issue with the factor 2pin front diff and axles. I am going to use the Callaway Torque Converter and probably the transfer case for its gearing. While I have it all out, I may even put the Callaway transmission in, just because it has lower miles

 

[nickm347]

..........

 

[nickm347]

I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. They had it forever, there was some real bad communication going on with what parts I did and did not need. Finally back though. I went with a full rebuild with a crower cam kit. The short block is put back to gether, and all I need to do is put the heads, intake, lifters, flywheels etc on before I put it back in the car.

My questions is, what am I looking at for break in? I was going to use reg 10w40 to assemble the engine with and break in for 500 miles.Keep under a certain RPM/speed, then use synthetic the rest of its life.

Any one have any experience, or a good source/advice on breaking in a 4.6?

thanks

 

[Rich998a]

Turner Engineering supply a Millers oil for breaking in a new engine.

http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/info_544.html

 

[paul.adshead]

That's painful to look at. One upside is that it's one of the best pics I've seen showing the location of the crank position sensor!