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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a 98 HSE with a bad motor on Thursday. I just picked up a 4.6 from a '99 Callaway today. I know the top end is different, but what do I need to run it? I snagged the engine ECU and MAF, but the air intake tube and airbox were broken in half and missing. I also grabbed the transmission and transfer case. Other than a broken battery cover, and a single lug nut pressed into the mud, thats all that was left. I know the TCU is specific to this transmission, but unless it is located on the tranny itself, I do not have it.

I guess my question is, can I use the stock air intake tube and air box from the 98 4.6? Is it worth taking out the working (apparently) transmission and t-case for the Callaway stuff?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, while I have the engine out of the car, I am going to do head gaskets and inspect the bottom half (apparently 92k miles, but I cannot confirm). Will any GEMS 4.6 head gasket kit fit? I figured it would, but just wanted to double check.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Yes, you can use the stock air intake.

I can't remember off hand everything that made the callaway different... but IIRC it wasn't much more than a port and polish and a new map for the ECU..and exhaust.

I bet your current ecu would adapt to it just fine. It probably wouldn't pull all of the available power out of it, but I bet it would still be stronger than a standard 4.6. I'm sure someone with some actual experience or knowledge of the callaway will chime in, so in the meantime take what I say with a grain of salt...because I've been know to be full of it.

Nice find btw...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
kmagnuss said:
Yes, you can use the stock air intake.

I can't remember off hand everything that made the callaway different... but IIRC it wasn't much more than a port and polish and a new map for the ECU..and exhaust.

I bet your current ecu would adapt to it just fine. It probably wouldn't pull all of the available power out of it, but I bet it would still be stronger than a standard 4.6. I'm sure someone with some actual experience or knowledge of the callaway will chime in, so in the meantime take what I say with a grain of salt...because I've been know to be full of it.

Nice find btw...
Thanks for the input. I have the Callaway ECU so I think I will be okay. The guy that pulled the engine pretty much ripped it out. Scratched the upper intake and dented the oil pan.
 

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i'll try and find a pic of my engine. i have no doubt you caqn make it work. i will tell you the intake from the air box to the plenum is larger and carbon fiber. it had k&m stock (and still does in mine), and different compression and more ponies. if i remember correctly, you want the post '99 drivetrain to handle it, so make sure you're torgue bearing parts are in order. that's at the minimum. there are other items that need adjustment i believe...i'll see f i can find some info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input

Since I have the engine out of the car, I am going to put on new headgaskets just to be safe. I was also thinking of putting a bigger cam in to help with performance. Does anyone have a camshaft suggestion that would work well?
Any links?

Thanks
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Email http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ and see what they suggest. You have some choices. Piper do a modified RV8 fast road unit. JE Engineering do one as well which IIRC is called the JE-101...

The Callaway project is very interesting. One of the LR magazines did a write up about it about 6 months ago. I think Land Rover were getting 20 horses less than they were advertising and asked Callaway to try and put the problem right. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies guys. I have decided just to keep the cam factory. Keep it simple and cheaper. I ordered a head gasket kit, water pump, thermostat, plugs wires and new belt today. Should be good. Also, FYI, according to the guys at Atlantic British, they do not make an oil pan gasket for the GEMS P38. They used a gasket sealer, which I confirmed when I looked at the engine. So if you are looking to replace the gasket, you wont find it listed anywhere.

I have another question about pulling out the original engine. I am going through the RAVE steps, but it is to pull the engine and tranny out together. Is it possible to pull just the engine out? Im not sure I can reach the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks
 

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Thanks for the tip on the oil pan gasket nick - that's on my spring "to-do" list. I won't waste my time trying to hunt one down. Much obliged.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just thought I would throw a pic of the engine up. It was pretty dirty. Took a few cans of cleaner and a tooth brush to get it to to this point. Dont mind the mess, I spilled transmission fluid everywhere when I took it off the engine. Another FYI, if you use kitty litter to clean up spilled fluids, do not get it wet. It is slicker then hell, and I almost lost it a few times.



Some Callaway Stickers/stamps. Several stickers on the upper and lower intake, as well as the heads. Each head seems to be stamped with a different number




Another tip for guys working on their engines: The fan clutch nut is 36 mm, a pretty big wrench. I have seen speacial tools advertise in Atlantic British for $45 or so. No need to get that, just go to Autozone and through the tool rental program ($25) you can get a fan clutch removal tool for a Ford 4.9L. Has the 36mm wrench and works just fine.



Here is a shot of the old engine. Everything disconnected but the bellhousing bolts and motor mounts. I have been taking my sweet ass time getting this thing out.



Here is how I found the engine, just laying in some oily mud. Looks so sad. No wonder I got it so cheap. But, it did come with lots of spares- ECU, MAF, all sensors, starter, fan clutch (fan was broken), exhaust manifolds, water pump, engine mounts, most of the engine wiring.



If anyone needs any info/pics on a p38 engine while its out, let me know.
 

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I kind of skimmed through, but are you going to keep it Callaway? IF SO, read:

"The Callaway drivetrain was also modified. The automatic transmission used in the Callaway 4.6 HSE Range has a different torque converter and the transmission control unit (TCU) has been recalibrated to take advantage of the increased torque and power of the engine. The shift points in both "NORMAL" and "SPORT" modes have been changed to match the engine's increased power.

The electronic shift transfer case has a new ratio sprocket set and chain. The resulting new ratios provide a high range ratio of 1.294:1, and a low range ratio of 3.481:1. The ratio change improves acceleration performance in high range while also providing improved off-road "crawl" performance and coast down rates in low range.

The front axle shafts used on the Callaway 4.6 HSE have been strengthened to withstand the increased torque to the front wheels from the engine and transmission changes. A material change in the axles ensures durability will be maintained for the front axle half shafts. <>

Callaway decided to use a four-pin front differential to accommodate the increased torque rather than the two-pin front diff used on standard production Range Rovers. After working with Callaway on the four pin front diff Land Rover decided to put them in all of the 1999 Range Rovers since the 4 wheel traction control that added ABS regulated traction control to the front axle in 1999 also put extra stress on the front diff (Range Rovers from 1993-1998 only had traction control on the rear axle)"

(pulled from the main site)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Roverrad95-
I do not have the front axle or the TCU. Honestly, I dont think I need to upgrade my diff. Its an extra 50lb of torque or something. I drive easy in my Rover, so I dont see it being an issue with the factor 2pin front diff and axles. I am going to use the Callaway Torque Converter and probably the transfer case for its gearing. While I have it all out, I may even put the Callaway transmission in, just because it has lower miles
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The Engine is out!


To answer my own questions earlier, here are some tips:

If you plan on removing just the engine, and not the engine and tranny as per the RAVE, take the coil pack off. You can easily access the top bellhousing bolts. Standing on the front crossmember where the radiator once was, gave me a much better angle then from the side.

Also, I had the exhaust manifolds off (6 or so 8mm bolts hold on the shield. They must be removed to access the 12 point 12mm bolts holding the manifold to the head. If they rust, use a dremel). I dont know if it can be done with them on. Another bit of advice here is, cover up the exhaust openings to the Y-pipe. If you drop your wrench in there, its a pain to get out. Trust me, it can happen.

I left the engine harness attached to the vehicle, so just mark everything and unplug it. I took the upper intake off (6 mm allen/hex) and was able to get the wiring harness put off to the side.

And this is why you should always check your oil level in your engine:



For those of you that arent sure what that is, it is a large hole in the side of the block. There was some bits of metal here and there, even in the upper intake. In the same spot on the other side, the block was cracked and looked like was about to do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. They had it forever, there was some real bad communication going on with what parts I did and did not need. Finally back though. I went with a full rebuild with a crower cam kit. The short block is put back to gether, and all I need to do is put the heads, intake, lifters, flywheels etc on before I put it back in the car.

My questions is, what am I looking at for break in? I was going to use reg 10w40 to assemble the engine with and break in for 500 miles.Keep under a certain RPM/speed, then use synthetic the rest of its life.

Any one have any experience, or a good source/advice on breaking in a 4.6?

thanks
 
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