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Discussion Starter #1
I have been noticing that even after installing a Brand New OE Oil Filter Housing that I am still experiencing the entire housing draining back to the sump.

This means when you start the engine up it has to prime the Filter before any oil hits the Cam Followers and you get the DEATH RATTLE on start up.

I have checked that the Filter is seated correctly, and that the filter drain valve is closing and is not fouled. The drain comes into play when filter is removed but when filter is installed its supposed to hold oil is there a none return valve down stream of the filter that I don't know of that may be NFG.
Any ideas Guys?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hi,

There is never oil in the filter housing when the engine is stopped (at least on mine and also on my colleagues). From what I can see on the oil flow diagram, there is nothing stopping it from draining back to the sump when the oil pump stops.

The death rattle is most probably the usual VANOS rattle (as I have never heard of any BMW V8 which had worn followers causing knocking), which I used to get when starting and quickly goes quiet once oil pressure is present. I changed oil to a much higher grade than the LR dealers used, and it has all but stopped the rattle (I still get a quiet rattle when the engine is fully up to temperature from one bank, but has been like this now for over 10k miles and not getting any worse). I am preparing to change my VANOS units in the coming weeks which will eliminate the knocking all together.

Hope this helps
 

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I have also noticed a brief rattle on startup. My father a retired motor mechanic, has had experience in these type of remote oil filters and was fairly sure the filter housing was not holding oil when the engine was off. This would result in a time delay for the oil to reach the engine cams while the oil housing has to prime it's self each time the car is started. It only became apparent whist taking the old filter off and fitting the new filter that the filter was not pushing the drain back valve down in the base of the housing shutting it off. Further investigation showed that the filter needed to sit lower down over the raised section in the base of the filter housing to ensure this I needed to remove the flat rubber seal in the base of the filter and increase the diameter of the hole that the seal sits. The filter is held in the filter housing cap and once screwed down was enough to shut the valve. You can test that the oil is held in the housing by removing the drain back hose when the engine is off. It was a success for me and I have no more rattles on start up any more.
 

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My filter housing always contains oil, with the filter in or not.
Every time I change oil & filter, I have to draw the oil out of the filter housing with a syringe or pump.
 

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Hi, *there is a light spring that lifts the drain back valve up to allow the oil to drain back to the engine sump once the filter is removed. Your next oil change it might be worth removing the filter housing and washing it out, this should clear any grit that may be causing the spring to stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I recently replaced the Filter Housing, and I still have drain back will be investigating this further plus I am also getting Low Oil pressure at idol on occasion. Have to check out the Oil Pump Bolt issue that I heard about on the Bimmer Board. Draining back should only happen when filter is removed for oil service change. O3Rangiemark, your filter housing filter drain may be gummed up and need a little solvent help to clear it. Gyrogypsy, according to Land Rover that filter housing should contain oil when engine is stopped. I am suspecting a syphon affect is going on or there is a hidden none return valve inline that I can't see.

As for VANOS rattle I do not have that, I did a total head rebuild and serviced the entire VANOS system with new chains seals etc. The M62 TU44 VANOS is not as complex as other BMW motors and therefor less prone to mechanical failure. The Really bad ticking most hear is from Chain guides having taken a **** and possibly the tensioner being gummed up solid.

Kirkby, thanks for that info I have a feeling that maybe the issue I am thinking that the Oil filter type may be different to the ones originally specced by BMW.

Will let you guys know what I find.
 

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Thanks, Kirky & L4FLIROP, I'll have to check that.
And I'm due for an oil change soon, so the timing couldn't be better.
I've had this beast 5 years now and changed the oil 10 times, and never knew the oil wasn't supposed to remain in the filter housing.
That'll take care of one thing I never liked about the design.
 

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I found the problem that was keeping the drain valve in my filter housing closed. Apparently long ago, either the first time I changed the oil or before I owned it, the plastic base of the filter came off and was stuck inside the filter housing. The whole time I had it, through all the filter changes I've done, it's been in there holding down the valve.
I removed it, and now all is right with the filter housing.
Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thats weird because the idea is that when the filter is in the drain back to sump valve closes, This means that the Engine makes oil pressure faster to the cams. Otherwise the oil has to be primed back into the oil filter hence the chatter on start up. When the filter is removed the absence of the filter cartridge opens the drain back valve to the sump.
I am now having little doubt that the additional start up noise is due to this very thing. As yet I have not had a spare moment to look at it more but I hope to by the end of the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK Guys an Update on the Oil Filter Draining Back issue.

OK when you remove the filter and replace it, ensure you insert the filter into the filter housing and Push It Down.
You will hear a click this means that the filter has engaged with the base of the housing.
So now once the cap is screwed on the the filter will be seated in the correct position and the Drain valve will be closed.

Now when you remove the filter on next oil change you will have to Pull Up on the filter Cap extracting the filter.
Doing so will open the drain back valve.

If the filter is NOT inserted and clicked down, the slight upward position will allow the drain back valve to seep oil back into the Sump.

This should help with start up Chatter as the oil pressure builds up.

PROBLEM SOLVED
 

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I've always just inserted the filter into the housing, fully & all the way, filled it with oil, then put the cap on.
Granted, I had the bottom plastic piece of an old, old filter holding down my valve previously, but why would I need to stick the filter to the cap before putting it in the housing?
Since I fill the housing with oil before filling the rest of the oil, I could tell by looking if it drains from the housing before I button it up.
Since this last fill was the first I got to enjoy the nifty oild drain feature, I did do it this way to make sure the oil didn't drain with the filter installed.

Regardless, I do sometimes get a momentary rattle when starting the beast. Not always, but sometimes, and only for a split second. I always figured it was the vanos rattle. It's intermittantly done this since I've had it, 5 years, 50k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No insert the filter into the housing and push down, when the cap is screwed on it will also lock on to the Top of the filter. Priming is a good idea, however you need to ensure that the filter is fully home in the base or it will just drain back to the sump. When you renew the filter and unscrew the cap the Old filter will be attached to the cap for extraction and as it raises it will have already opened the drain.
 

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Hello, just wanted to say A Big THANK YOU!! Pushing down the filter into the filter housing until it clicks, then replacing the cap has shut the nrv and now I have oil staying in the housing and zero rattle on start up!! I'm used to the BMW oil filter caps that have the filter guide attached to them. The l322 has this in the housing. It worked!!! L4FLIROP is a genius and determined to find out the cause. It's not always the same old Vanos and timing chain noises that we keep getting from everyone. I hated turning the key especially once the oil was hot and sat for an hour then started.

This is my first post/reply. Thanks again!!

My truck runs quieter than ever now!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Hello, rattle has come back a few days later, but much less prominent. I wonder if the oem filter is longer and keeps the valve closed? I'm going to buy one from the dealer and try it. Otherwise there is definitely something wrong with the oil filter housing draining down. Sorry I jumped the gun on this. Any thoughts also before replacing the housing? Is there a valve that can be replaced instead or do you think I can remove it and clean it out? Thanks again,


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I wouldn't just randomly replace the VANOS. It certainly can also cause rattles though. In my case, I switched to a slightly thicker oil and the problem went away....
 
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