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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 Range Rover 4.6 HSE and I seem to have some type of limiter at 3000 RPM? When in park or neutral the revs will go to just over 3000 RPM (approx. 3250 RPM) and will jump from there to approx. 2750 RPM. When driving it will go to 3000 and will not allow the engine to exceed that. You can still feel power but it feels stuck. A jerky upshift will occur once i take my foot off the accelerator pedal. Sometimes if you go WOT it will SLOWLY climb up the revs until 4000 RPM where I haven't been able to get it past. The "limiter" isn't always at 300RPM it goes anywhere between 2750 and 3250. I dont think it means anything but if I'm going say, 55 MPH and let off the gas there a a few bumps, like in a manual transmission.

How can I fix this!
 

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Administrator
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No there is no limiter at 3K RPM. If there were you would not be able to go to 4K RPM.

It sounds more like a throttle position/transmission issue.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Throttle position? How would that make me have this issue? It hits 3K and gets "stuck" there and the engine, after a few seconds of WOT at 3K, then begins to continue up the powerband. I'm pretty sure that my transmission is fine, as it was checked by a Land Rover specialist a few weeks ago. His answer to this issue im having was: "some of them just do that."
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Your specialist is a moron and RRToad knows his stuff so I'd say his suggestion of potential issues carries a lot of weight.

There is a "throttle position sensor", not sure if that's what he was mentioning.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
It really struggles over 3k rpm (if even gets that high). It will not shift over 3k. I'm really confused as to what the issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there anywhere that I can get instructions on how to do that?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Yeah start by using the search function, this has been covered before.
The TPS can and will effect it, as with fuel pressure, crank sensor, reluctor wheel, and so on.
And I agree, your "specialist" needs a new area of expertise.
Last one I had at my place that did that was clogged cats, after they passed a test at a "specialist".
I simply unbolted the Y pipe and then revved it up. It went from bogging at 2-2500rpm's, to going to the redline. Such a high tech and loing winded test (10 minutes) I know, but it worked perfectly.
Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
Bogging down. Those are the words I needed to describe my trucks problem. Is this something that an unexperienced person like myself can do at home? Seems like an obvious question but, I need to make sure that it's not going too be difficult for me to handle.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Bogging down. Those are the words I needed to describe my trucks problem. Is this something that an unexperienced person like myself can do at home? Seems like an obvious question but, I need to make sure that it's not going too be difficult for me to handle.
Depends on your problem.

Download the RAVE manual http://www.landroverresource.com/

Read the relevant sections of the manual

As a starting point, remove and clean the TPS with carb cleaner. This can make a big difference.

Adjust throttle cable as per the manual. Go on, try it. If they are not correctly adjusted, your shift points will be way out.

Problem solved? Go have a beer.

No? Follow troubleshooting guide in manual and start to look elsewhere.

Decide for yourself if you can do more. Decide whether you are prepared to learn to do more. It is a P38 after all.

Do not take back to your 'specialist".

There's all the information you need on here to solve your problem, but the guys probably need a bit more than 'bogging down' to really help.
 

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Dear All
I've just got a new Turner engineering engine with flowed head and she now revs like a banshee. I seem to have discovered a rev limiter at about 5,000 rpm by accident, is there a rev limit on the ECU/BECM or am i potentially bending pushrods? I can't find any mention of a factory default rev limit in the forum.

Regards
Paul C
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Dear All
I've just got a new Turner engineering engine with flowed head and she now revs like a banshee. I seem to have discovered a rev limiter at about 5,000 rpm by accident, is there a rev limit on the ECU/BECM or am i potentially bending pushrods? I can't find any mention of a factory default rev limit in the forum.
Paul- the fuel map in the standard GEMS goes flat at 5000- 5500. I believe that there may be a setting in the ECU with a 5500 limit. You're also flirting with "pump up" on the lifters once you go much past that.
If you're hitting your limiter on the road there is a mph speed limiter. If you're hitting it while static and revving the engine, be warned, bad things can happen to the gearbox revving past 3000!
Apparently the Tornado chipset increases the fuel map limit and rev limit.
 

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Thanks, i have a manual so no gearbox worries and its only when i'm drifting on wet grass in the paddock to stretch her new lungs and legs :)
But interesting i have the chipped ECU and yes the limiter does seem to be there. This new engine is a revelation, highly recommended.
Regards
Paul C
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Might be worth sticking a datalogger on it to see what the actual revs are as opposed to the reported via the rev counter. If the engine's new, it'll be tight for the first few hundred miles. I don't think Turners break them in on a dyno. Don't want to get in to egg sucking territory, but if you're kind to it while it's running in and give it an oil change after whatever Turners recommend you run it in on, it'll give many miles of service.
Enjoy!
Mark
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Dunno about a Turner but mine was done by V8 Developments and they recommended the cheapest, nastiest mineral 20W-50 for the first 1,000 miles then fully synthetic 10W-50 or 10W-60 after that with a change every 10,000 miles.
 

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This happened to my 4.6 a few years back....same symptoms felt like a rev limit at 3000 rpm. Turned out to be the Crankshaft Position Sensor and was an easy fix (replacement).
 
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