RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody,
I was wondering what I would need to replace in order to run 275/70r18's on my p38 with a 3'' Coil conversion from Toddco Suspension. The site shows his p38 with the 3" kit and 2" blocks fitting these tires. He said I would be able to fit the 275/70's with just the three inch kit. I have heard different opinions on the matter and some have said that I would need new brake lines, drive shafts, and gears. What do I really need to run this kit with those tires? Can I get away with out changing the brake lines, drive shafts, and gearing? Do you all recommend that I get new adjustable pan hard rods that they offer? Please let me know what you all think.
Thanks,
Scott
 

·
FOUNDING MEMBER
Joined
·
4,509 Posts
#1, what do you intend to do with the RR?

my RR on 31" tires kept up with several defenders on "33's and many DII's this summer at the rally, even got through a spot Bill Burke tried 3 times :thumb: (I did have the benefit of watching his line...) I did manage to blow up my rear dif on the last day showing off on a hill-climb...


if you want to do some mild/medium offroading you don't need to change much. if you just want bigger tires for show youll need to atleast:

lengthen or move the brake lines,
dual cardon driveshafts
lower gears (because of the tires, not the height..)
longer or adjustable panhards.

Those are all the basic things that go with a lift, there's more to it and allot more to consider, but it's a place to start your research.

if you want to do some hardcore offroading, theres allot more than just bigger tires to consider

have a look at www.pirate4x4.com, not all about rovers but a wealth of information on offroad mods. most of them are above and beyond what most of us will do with a RR, but it's (almost) all good info and gives allot to think about. Like
 

·
JACK'S GRANDAD
Joined
·
9,248 Posts
Most rigs can make do perfectly fine with a trac bar (panhard rod) relocation bracket. Basically it raises the axle mounting point. Lot cheaper to make than a new trac bar. Either lowering the frame mount, or raising the axle mount will do the same thing. There is some adjustment on the cam bolt, so see if that works first.
Driveshafts are a maybe. Some are fine lifted, others are not. Depends on how much slip you have in the driveshaft to start with. If you lift @3", you dont need a lot more length than a stocker.
Brake lines sometimes can be relocated under the frame instead of over the top as most manufacturers make them. This gives you free extended brake lines in effect :thumb: Have a look and see what you think, I cannot see mine right now as I am out of state.
Gearing is up to the individual. By whatever percentage you are going up in tire size, you need to lower the gearing. So if you go 10% bigger in tires. you need at least 10% lower (numerically higher) gearing. All it will do though is move the RPM range to where it should be. No damage will occur if you leave the gearing alone up to a point. Lower gearing results in a weaker pinion gear, which most seem to forget about.... I run 37's on 4.10 gears in my wheeling rig, and although not ideal it does do fine on the road. I have a 4:1 gearset for my low range too though, so offroad it isnt an issue.
As Dennis said, it all depends on what you want the rig to do. For wheeling you will also need disconnects for the sway bars, and asses the limiting factors in axle travel. You DO NOT want the limiting factors to be brake lines and shocks!!!

Martin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Great advice from Martin and the guys. You don't want to go into this thinking only lift + tires = done. There is much more to consider. Trac-bar relocation brackets are a good thing if they are made well. I've had a few that tended to bend or loosen over time, so it becomes a regular maintenance item. I've since switched to an adjustable trac-bar and have been pleased. JKS quick disconnects are a nice swaybar upgrade if fitted ( I wheel a Jeep ZJ ) and will allow for max articulation. Gearing becomes a bigger concern the farther over say, 31 or 32" tires. 33"s you may be okay.

3" you can generally get by without driveline angle issues/vibration or too big a risk of death wobble, but that's my Jeep experience. Might be different on a P38. Anything more than 3" and you need to really sit down and go over the geometry of your suspension (time for long arms).

If you do a lot of on road driving, braking becomes a larger concern with the added unsprung weight at each wheel. I have upgraded to powerslot rotors and EBC heavy duty pads on the Jeep to help haul the thing down in a controlled manner.

I wheeled my Jeeps for years with just a 2" lift and 31's and was able to go just about everywhere the big boys went. Lack of a locker was really the thing that limited those rigs more than ground clearance or tire size, etc.
 

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
59 Posts
When discussion lift on a P38, is the reference point the stock "normal" EAS height setting, or the "offroad" setting?
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top