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Discussion Starter #1
So I have made some cool posts about my 2006 HSE. Repainting door handles, repainting the window crawl, subwoofer upgrades and more. The majority of my posts the last year has been abut my EAS.

So my main problems are as follows:

Suspension Fault
Suspension Fault "Don't exceed 30 MPH"

To date what I have done to fix the issue:

Replaced Hitachi compressor with new AMK compressor (had i reprogrammed at Land Rover)
Replaced all air bags (new struts and air bags up front and rear air bags all from Arnott)
ReplacedBattery
Replaced front and rear leveling value blocks
Replaced two ride height sensors and ride height sensor harnesses

I did replace the air bags and blocks today and noticed that the car woudn't come off the bump stops. The pump would run, just nothing would happen.

The codes I would receive:

"Air Supply"
"Pressure does not decrease when Venting Gallery"
"Lost Communications with Ride Height Control Module"
"Lost Communication with Remote Drive Utility Module"
"Control Module main software"

If I unplug the battery let it set for 5 minutes and reinstall, it would raise the truck little by little, but only after each time I reset the system.

This has to be an ECU issue? I checked the alternator and getting good readings.

I should have switched to coils $2,000 ago.

Any ideas?
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Well if you have been having issues for ages and tossing parts at it, we have no details on what codes were logged, when they were logged or how you arrived at all these parts you feel you needed. Part of the issue is that you feel like venting that you should have castrated and gone to coils but you started a new thread. We have no history, no real information, no actual diagnostic codes.

The "do not exceed..." message on your dash means you have not cleared hard faults. Soft faults clear themselves during EAS systems check at start up. We have no idea what kind of diagnostics you are running. You give vague descriptions from some unknown source, but no actual codes. All that "do not exceed..." message on your dash means is that the EAS system is shut down and in "cover it's butt" mode so you don't do more damage until you address the error codes. Until you address the logged system faults AND clear them there aint nothin goinna happen. Have you cleared codes? What exact codes come back? You could replace the entire system from front to back and top to bottom and if you are not handling the error codes correctly the system is never going to operate.

This could all boil down to a simple corroded connector, bent pin or chafed wire for lost communications. Pressure not decreasing could be a stuck valve when lowering. I can think of no code that comes close to a main software warning.

I also can not think of a single L322 I have worked on in my shop that came anywhere near the money you have spent to get operational and that includes two coil to EAS restorations.

Short of looking up all your past posts and reading everything from scratch there is really nothing here but some descriptions that make little sense. Please for the love of Pete when you start in again, continue at least one of your old threads so we don't have to spend our time searching for info and playing 20 questions.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

So painting door handles is different than diagnosing and repairing a fault then? Say it aint so....
What are you using to diagnose the EAS?
Any other systems with a fault (ABS SRS etc)?
As said already, this thread is just a rant without knowing the history of the whole deal, and it isn't down to us to look all your past ramblings up is it?
One thing I will agree on though, is that for you, coils could well have been the answer........ At least then you're only throwing 4 parts at it without the proper diagnosing, and not more.

Moral of the story, it isn't ours or your rigs fault that YOU can't diagnose a problem correctly.
Martin
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Hi Balln. I was wondering how much did Land Rover charge you to update the software to run your new AMK compressor? Also it sounds like once you get up and running, you'll have a system that will run for a long time. It will get worked out.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Services like that can vary a LOT between dealers, so what they charged in Vegas could be way above or below what they'd charge in Denver. Best bet is to call all your local dealers and ask them what they'd charge.

Martin
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Thanks. I'm assuming it's better to just source a Hitachi one then? If the price varies it must not be a simple 10 minute job to reprogram the software? Also, could that be part of Balln's problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Hi Balln. I was wondering how much did Land Rover charge you to update the software to run your new AMK compressor? Also it sounds like once you get up and running, you'll have a system that will run for a long time. It will get worked out.
They charge $200 to reprogram the AMKs. That was the same price at the Indy shops and dealership, so I went dealership. Also note with the new AMK compressors it requires a different compressor relay. Usually comes with the new compressor..
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Again, different areas will charge different amounts as a rule. Just because an Indy shop in Vegas happened to charge the same as the dealer in Vegas, does not mean a thing in a different time zone.

Call your local dealer.
You can also rebuild the stock unit these days, no other mods needed.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Sorry if I turned this post into a rant. It does look that way and I'm sorry.

I started a new thread for the shocking headline. Many threads are incomplete or sections about EAS here and there, but all situations are different. I wanted to show the amazing members of Rangerovers.net that you could go down a path and never come to a conclusion or get what you wanted. I have received great help from other members and have bonded with my Rover and learned so much about her. It even brought my dad and I together to work on it, drink beer, and say bad words. lol.

My challenge goes back to Sep 2016 when I purchased my Rover from a dude on CL. Started as no big deal EAS issues "Offroad mode only" to now complete suspension faults that wont go away. I have had my Rover with multiple Indy shops, the dealership, no one does anything but replace parts (some I already replaced), service charges, and give me different answers as to why I'm having problems. I'm blessed to be able to make an investment into my project truck, but others might not.

Coils are not the answer and the reason we love the ride in our Rovers, is due to the sweet air suspension. But they make those coil conversion kits for a reason. I'm not going to go coils (even though the Indy shop said I should) as I know I'm right there at the finish line.

Just need some direction. I will not be going back to the Indy or dealership for my EAS issues. I'm going to be tackling it myself. I do own a iCarsoft Scanner, but should have made a larger investment for some of these better tools. Mine does read all the faults and rests them... they just come back minutes later.

Running total EAS Investment:

Hitachi rebuild kit (seals, dryer, muffler, ect): $150 (didn't work)
AMK Compressor (Land Rover brand new in box): $800
AMK Compressor Programming: $200
Two Front Arnott Air shocks: $750
Two Rear Arnott Air shocks: $500
Two Ride Height Sensors: $380
Ride Height Sensor Harness: $40 each
Front Leveling Valve Blocks: $220 (I rebuilt the rear)
EAS Pressure sensor: $150

Indy Service charges: $700 (would have been much more if I kept going back)
Dealership Service charges: I can't really remember
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

No ABS Faults are SRS Faults. I have the LRII scanner from iCarsoft. I'm getting "instrument pack" faults (i think thats the correct section name) and "body control module" faults along with the suspension faults.

Moral of the story, "don't assume what others have said is correct and to do the work yourself". And I'm not blaming anyone on this forum. I always appreciate the feedback.
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Thanks for the answer, Balln. I will start a new thread for my questions about the compressor.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Fair enough then.
Can the Icar thingy for 110% sure reset EAS hard faults? Without doing that, it will never work.
As Carl said, a simple bad connection could be the culprit here, if there are communication errors. A shop just saying throw coils on it is somewhere to avoid in my experience, they are lazy at best, useless at worse.

Martin
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

"Air Supply"
"Pressure does not decrease when Venting Gallery"
"Lost Communications with Ride Height Control Module"
"Lost Communication with Remote Drive Utility Module"
"Control Module main software"

If I unplug the battery let it set for 5 minutes and reinstall, it would raise the truck little by little, but only after each time I reset the system.

This has to be an ECU issue? I checked the alternator and getting good readings.

I should have switched to coils $2,000 ago.

Any ideas?
The pressure does not decrease could be an issue in the valve block or something as easy as the air filter at the compressor exhaust. I drilled a hole in mine for this exact reason. If the system can't vent air properly it shuts down. It could sense the res is charged because you keep trying to work around the fact that bags won't inflate causing the compressor to run over and over again, but then shuts down as a result of being unable to vent.

All this "lost communication" stuff I'd seriously consider shotgunning the issue with an alternator. It may test okay but if it's tired it will cause all sort of issues. If you have access to an oscilloscope it'd make sense to throw that onto the battery and see what exactly the alternator is doing. 14-14.7 at idle, it should be the same revving. If you're on a scope and notice the voltage going nuts jumping beyond 14.7 then back down the voltage regulator would be toasted. Various systems in the car will scram and shut down with a spike in voltage.

Highly doubt the ECU has gone bad, usually if something like that goes bad it doesn't work at all vs intermittently. Could be though.

Fair enough then.
Can the Icar thingy for 110% sure reset EAS hard faults?
Yes it does, I keep one in my car. It's super cheap and reads basically all the genuine land rover codes, data logs etc. The only thing you can't do with it is make actual edits/reset the service lights.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

I use TekPro, RSW and BBS Faultmate, so have no experience with the Icar thing.
May grab one to play with though if it can do everything!

Martin
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

It isn't as good as what you have, but as far as a sub $200 diagnostic it's great to pop in the car. Saved me a couple times on road trips. I think I made a thread about it at one point, pretty impressive for the price.
 

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I have the icarsoft also, it works great for resetting codes including EAS but I wish it would reset the oil change mileage.

Regarding all the EAS issues it sounds electrical (ground wires, connections, battery, solenoids, etc...). That said I like to start troubleshooting by verifying the system will hold air first, then start tracing electrical issues. You said reconnecting the battery will get it to pump up. Do that, get it up to regular height and pull the fuse to see if it sinks overnight. If it sinks start spraying soapy water at all the airline connections and the bags to identify, don't forget the air tank.

You have replaced a lot of things, including the most likely culprits but need to spend some time methodically going through the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Thank you all so much. That's what I love about this forum. Those that want to help and simply that. Eventually we will have all the answers for everything L322.

I do have solid readings at the battery, but I dont know how old my alternator is and have no problem of replacing it. Its a little confusing on the correct alternator part I need. I see Atlantic British has them, but a few different options and don't think mine is water cooled.

The LRII iCarsoft is a cool tool. It does everything but the following: adjust ride height calibration, release the EAS air, update ECU/compressor software. It does reset the service reminders, faults codes, live data stream, and more. They also put out firmware updates..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

I have the icarsoft also, it works great for resetting codes including EAS but I wish it would reset the oil change mileage.

Regarding all the EAS issues it sounds electrical (ground wires, connections, battery, solenoids, etc...). That said I like to start troubleshooting by verifying the system will hold air first, then start tracing electrical issues. You said reconnecting the battery will get it to pump up. Do that, get it up to regular height and pull the fuse to see if it sinks overnight. If it sinks start spraying soapy water at all the airline connections and the bags to identify, don't forget the air tank.

You have replaced a lot of things, including the most likely culprits but need to spend some time methodically going through the system.
I disconnected the battery for 3 days and took messurments every morning. Only the right rear bag dropped 1/2" so I replaced both bags. I replaced the front right, due to the front always looking low. Didn't make a difference and still looks low and showing low on the screen. Sucks that the previous owner replaced the rear air bags with Arnott, but because I didn't have a receipt I had to buy again and couldn't use their limited lifetime warranty.

To reset service reminders, you have to have the LR II version of iCarsoft. This is the one I have: http://www.icarsoft.com/web/icarsoftus/allproducts/landroverscantools/2015/201506/20150612154619c3j2t_1.html

The i930 is the smaller one that won't reset service lights. Funny when I was at Land Rover this week buying parts, some of the techs had the iCarsoft like mine.
 

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Re: $3,000 into Fixing Suspension Issues & Still No Answers

Thank you all so much. That's what I love about this forum. Those that want to help and simply that. Eventually we will have all the answers for everything L322.

I do have solid readings at the battery, but I dont know how old my alternator is and have no problem of replacing it. Its a little confusing on the correct alternator part I need. I see Atlantic British has them, but a few different options and don't think mine is water cooled.

The LRII iCarsoft is a cool tool. It does everything but the following: adjust ride height calibration, release the EAS air, update ECU/compressor software. It does reset the service reminders, faults codes, live data stream, and more. They also put out firmware updates..
If you do discover your alternator is no good believe it or not autozone has them for just about 200 with a lifetime warranty! I've replaced alts a bunch for myself and friends on these cars this is what works best for me and causes the least scrapes on your knuckles.

1.) take the belly pan off the car
2.) remove the coolant res (some people drain their system and are all particular about it I throw an oil pan under the res on the floor under the car and just pull the hose off, you'll get 99% of the fluid)
3.) take the tension off the belt
4.) go under the car and remove the two 15mm bolts (I think they're 15mm) that secure the alternator
5.) there is still one more bolt accessed from the top of the engine bay, just loosen this one, it will allow you to move the alternator around to get the plugs off it without causing them damage
6.) remove plugs remove final bolt... I like to walk the alternator up as far as possible then dip it down so the pulley is facing the floor, then wiggle it from the back up through the engine bay and out the top.

There isn't alot of room to pop the nut off the power cable... I think it's a 13mm bolt and I've always used a ratcheting spanner. Also the red boot can get very annoying. I pulled mine off, on refit I used a blade and cut right down the middle (belly) so it can just be slid right on after everything is secure. There really isn't a lot of room.

I'd check to see what the voltage is doing first though, would be a waste of time replacing a good alt, then again having a fresh alt is always a good thing on these cars.

ON edit... yours is not water cooled... it would be on the passenger side deep down off the side of the block of the engine... also when you take the tension off the belt (I stick a spanner in the tensioner with a pipe on the end, while pulling a reach down and pop the belt off the alternator) be careful not to slingshot the belt away or have it get derailed... so little room you don't want to be fighting later to find the belt and align it.
 
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