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Discussion Starter #1
I just did my first oil change at 4693 miles... I removed the pan and drained the old fashion way. For the filter, you need a 32mm socket and preferably not a deep axle socket, because it will interfere with the cowl. When removing the element, you need to pull real hard or I missed some trick. Anyway, it flew across the garage when it popped loose, so lesson learned. I had no success with resetting the service message following the instructions elsewhere here. Would appreciate any alternate approach. I will take to dealer next week if I can’t reset it. I plan to buy iLand but no confirmation that it works beyond 2015.

thanks
chris
 

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Hi Chris, I have a 2016 td6. I reset my service minder by doing the following:
With hood and driver door open, press the start button without stepping on the brake. When the dash lights turn on, step on gas and brake and hold them down until red triangle appears on the dash screen. (5-10 secs?)

Hope that works for you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - That's the process I followed several times. It even put a message saying service resetting or something to that effect. I called one of the vendors here that did not know and found that iLand won't cover my year RR yet. I have a call in to the dealer and promise to update this forum if I learn anything.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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This is how I reset my 2016 oil service indicator (found in another thread).

1) Turned on ignition (foot off brake)
2) Open Hood
3) Open Driver door
4) hold brake & gas for 30 seconds
5) Let off brake gas
6) Turn off ignition.

Mine reset after about 10 seconds. I did turn on the ignition prior to starting the rest of the process. Not sure if that matters.

The tube for the extraction pump is connected to the bottom of the oil pan so the tube will pump out all of the oil. Assume remove the pan means the protection pan under the engine not the oil pan.

Good luck.

Kris

Kris
 

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2014 RRS
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I do the oil changes on my 2014 HSE. The first time I did it after a couple of thousand miles, I removed the undertray held on my 1500 or so fasteners and drained the pan from the bottom. Then I learned that the better way is to suck it out using an evacuator connected to the tube at the center of the oil fill hole. Vacuuming out the oil actually removes an extra one third of a quart of so still left in the pan after draining and saves a lot of time. The oil change reset is done as explained above.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I go to dealer on Thursday, they have said there is a SW update for the issue with the above procedure not resetting the service message. I have a pump as well for next time. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
copying from my response in the other oil thread: I just had this SW update performed on my 2017. It is called N025 Independent Oil Dilution Counter Reset and N118 Service Warning Message Not Displayed Service Reset Not Working. The car called for oil change around 4800 miles so I did that myself but could not reset the service counter by pressing both gas and brake. From what I understand, now the oil service can be called and reset independent of the total "16k" service requirement. I can tell you that I'm not comfortable at all in leaving the oil inside this engine for a full 16k miles so I hope that it continues to require more frequent changes. In my mind the oil capacity is too small for such a long interval. Unfortunately, we can't see the status of the oil change (dilution) counter yet, but the dealer can. I hope that it requires an oil service in about 5k miles as that is about right for this engine and i think some of the oil dilution analysis that has been performed in the UK seems to back this up. If it does not call for an oil change, I might just change it anyway and see what happens. This is the most frustrating part of this car and I hope that someone soon develops the SW so I can see and reset this counter. And maybe add a real dipstick...
 

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Hey guys, I'm about to perform my first oil change on my 2017 RRS TDV6 and was wondering what oil brand did you go with? Also, where did you buy it from? I checked my local Autozone and Walmart but their selections are LIMITED for diesel engines.
 

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Castrol is the recommended brand. Check Amazon, but pay VERY close attention to the JLR spec (SAE 5W30 STJLR.03.5005, 6.0L))- ensure you can see the specification shown somewhere on the picture of the container, and ensure when it arrives the specification is listed on the bottle(s) you received.

Some of these vehicles are experiencing a higher rate of diesel dilution due to the post-injection required to keep the DPF clean. If you have any kind of engine problem within your warranty period, JLR may direct an engine oil analysis and they WILL deny any claim if they determine you have used a motor oil not approved for JLR diesel engines.

I recommend just buying the necessary quantity from your local stealer and keep the receipt. Most of their cost is labor anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can buy Ravenol online which meets the spec or you can buy from the dealer. The dealer gives me a discount so this is cheaper than online. I haven't found the Castrol Professional online with JLR spec only the VW. NAPA is now carrying Ligui-Moly and it may meet the requirements ... needs more study but this is $13 per litre so not going to save any money. It's the only over the counter oil I have seen in my area with ACEA ratings. The Castrol Professional has a dye in it to assist in locating leaks.
 

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Castrol is the recommended brand. Check Amazon, but pay VERY close attention to the JLR spec (SAE 5W30 STJLR.03.5005, 6.0L))- ensure you can see the specification shown somewhere on the picture of the container, and ensure when it arrives the specification is listed on the bottle(s) you received.

Some of these vehicles are experiencing a higher rate of diesel dilution due to the post-injection required to keep the DPF clean. If you have any kind of engine problem within your warranty period, JLR may direct an engine oil analysis and they WILL deny any claim if they determine you have used a motor oil not approved for JLR diesel engines.

I recommend just buying the necessary quantity from your local stealer and keep the receipt. Most of their cost is labor anyway.
Is the Mobil 1 ESP formula a good choice?


https://www.mobil.com/english-de/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gldemobil-1-esp-formula-5w30



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Officially, no. It doesn't carry the STJLR.03.5005 specification. If your dealer decides to do an oil analysis on this oil and they don't find whatever proprietary markers that specification carries in it, they will deny any engine-related warranty claims.

In reality, these "special" proprietary specifications are something of a black art. Automakers commission companies to make motor oil meeting a certain specification that presumably helps their engine meet emissions specifications as well as longevity goals determined by analysis from bench testing. They then strike a deal with two or three suppliers so their dealers have sufficient sources, and I suspect so that you have to go to the dealer to get the "correct" oil. Other oils may provide protection to the same or greater degree, but they've never been "certified."

You can spend many hours scouring discussions on forums like this for all sorts of automakers, for and against the need to use oils that meet a specific engine's specs, but you will always encounter stories of Corporate denying a claim after ordering an oil analysis in response to some contentious claim of some early failure. If you're under warranty, I would recommend paying the $12/qt for the oil from your service manager.

Out of warranty, I think Mobile 1 ESP is probably one of the best full synthetic diesel-spec motor oils out there, and you can get it at Wal-Mart - it would probably do fine.
 

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Hello,

I recently purchased a used RRS TD6, love it!

I had the software updated for the Service Warning message issues. Today I did the first oil change which was very easy. (I used the proper oil and filter from the dealer).

When the service reset (It seemed to do it automatically but I followed up with the procedure in this thread). The issue is it says it says it's due in 7700 miles, isn't 16,000 miles the recommended interval? (I'll change it more often)

What are others seeing when they reset? Could my dealer have loaded the wrong software update?

Thanks so much!!

JT
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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Just changed my oil. 3rd time in 21,000 miles, a bit over 2 years. I believe the first one may have been premature as it was around 6,000 miles, the light came on and I just had the dealer do it. It was incredibly expensive but I did get a "FREE" Yeti Land Rover cup. The other changes I suspect are more time related than mileage. The reset did change the next oil change to 16,000.

I purchased the oil from one of the local dealers in the San Francisco Bay Area. They charge a bit over $20 per liter for the oil. Filter was reasonable. Had to wait a bit for the parts guy then needed to rush to get to an appointment. I told the parts guy I just needed 6 liters of oil, he told me he checked with service and that I would need 8 even though the manual says 6. I went ahead and purchased the 8 as I was not certain if I ended up using more the last time I changed it. I checked the oil level after the change and adding 6 liters and it was at the top of the full mark.

Get to make another trip to the dealer to get my $45 back for the 2 liters I did not need.

I wonder if their services department charges customers for 8 liters?
 

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So had those two updates you referenced (N025 a N118) done I March. Since then I was able to do the service reset (door/hood/brake/accelator process) 2x. Then I tried it a third and it will not work. Does make sense?
 

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My oil service required light came on way early again. I used the procedure to reset it. Initially it showed 19,850 until next oil change?! After starting and shutting down and rechecking it the miles to the next change became 2,150.
I guess back to the dealer so that they can try again.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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To vacuum out the oil on a 2016 RR Td6 is it the fixed hard tube sticking up to the left of the oil filler cap location?
 
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