Nothing shows on the screen or just no sound?
2015 RRS Dynamic no nav, radio or bluetooth capability
No navigation, radio, phone, or bluetooth capability one morning.
I thought this may have been a blown fuse but the dealer is recommending a new $2900 audio amplifier to correct the problem.
Anyone else ever have the same issue?
CC
I thought this may have been a blown fuse but the dealer is recommending a new $2900 audio amplifier to correct the problem.
Anyone else ever have the same issue?
CC
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
The screen as a whole turns on and certain functions of the screen are accessible (cameras, audio settings, data, etc) but the subsections of the screen for phone, radio, and nav won't respond to the touch or turn on. So, no sound or display.
I had a bad Sirius XM module (replaced it with a $50 used unit from eBay) that caused the nav, sat radio, and bluetooth to constantly reset or shutdown. However, the terrestrial radio always worked. If you are handy, you should buy a MOST optic bypass loop ($10 on Amazon) and bypass the amp to see if the other modules respond. You won't get any sound since the amp is bypassed but it would let you know if that is the problem. All the modules are in a closed loop system so when one fails it severs the communication to the others downstream. Also, you can get used amps on eBay for $500-$1k. You just have to be certain the part numbers are exactly the same and they are plug and play. If you aren't handy then you are at the mercy of LR.
Great info, Scott. Thanks. I found the same part number (used) on ebay that has a warranty. Here's an ignorant question...is the 1280W amplifier located under the seat or in the back of the vehicle?
It's under the driver seat. It is easy to get to but you have to remove the seat. Only 4 bolts.
Be careful on the amps. The part number sticker has a vertical black bar on the side with a color and number exposed. The Yellow "16 Prem" is for the 1200W system. The Blue "12 High" is for the 800W system. The White "8 Mid" is the base 400W system. Make sure you get the one that matches your system as the part numbers are the same. It's best to remove yours and look before buying.
Search this keyword in eBay for the most hits 19C164
Be careful on the amps. The part number sticker has a vertical black bar on the side with a color and number exposed. The Yellow "16 Prem" is for the 1200W system. The Blue "12 High" is for the 800W system. The White "8 Mid" is the base 400W system. Make sure you get the one that matches your system as the part numbers are the same. It's best to remove yours and look before buying.
Search this keyword in eBay for the most hits 19C164
You also need a funky 12 point socket for the seat bolts. I bought it at the local autoparts store.
Thanks Scott, you're a big help. Before I left the dealer, he told me it was located in the cargo area (passenger side). I pulled the the side carpet back and didn't see it. Read your post and looked under the driver's seat (from the front and rear) and didn't see it there, either. I only saw the seat motor. I'm assuming once I take the driver seat out, it will be visible.
The amp is definitely under the left hand side front seat. I say left hand side because I am in the the US and I don't want to confuse "driver's side". Regardless, you can't see it just looking. You have to remove the seat. the amp is under the carpet. The floor carpet overlaps under the seat and when you peel it back you will see it.Thanks Scott, you're a big help. Before I left the dealer, he told me it was located in the cargo area (passenger side). I pulled the the side carpet back and didn't see it. Read your post and looked under the driver's seat (from the front and rear) and didn't see it there, either. I only saw the seat motor. I'm assuming once I take the driver seat out, it will be visible.
You’re right. I found it and ordered a used one with the exact numbers. We’ll see how it works when it arrives. Thanks! You were a big help!
The amp is definitely under the left hand side front seat. I say left hand side because I am in the the US and I don't want to confuse "driver's side". Regardless, you can't see it just looking. You have to remove the seat. the amp is under the carpet. The floor carpet overlaps under the seat and when you peel it back you will see
No navigation, radio, phone, or bluetooth capability one morning.
I thought this may have been a blown fuse but the dealer is recommending a new $2900 audio amplifier to correct the problem.
Anyone else ever have the same issue?
CC
Looks like I’ll take your advice and buy a Most optic bypass loop. The dealer diagnosed the problem as a bad amp, however the replacement amp did not solve the problem. I’ll return the replacement and start the search over by isolating each component.The amp is definitely under the left hand side front seat. I say left hand side because I am in the the US and I don't want to confuse "driver's side". Regardless, you can't see it just looking. You have to remove the seat. the amp is under the carpet. The floor carpet overlaps under the seat and when you peel it back you will see it.
I will be curious to see how this turns out. I had a similar problem with my 2013 Full Size, similar system. The nav hung up at "Initializing", no bluetooth, no radio except Sirius; but vehicle controls like seats and HVAC continued to work. Brought it into the dealer for a diagnosis only, but they instead attempted a software upload which essentially bricked the entire system. Technical advice from LRNA recommended new nav, new screen, and new front control module to the tune of $7000, mostly in parts. And used parts are not an option since LR outrageously prevents this by locking electronics to a specified VIN.
Given that I was likely to have a $7000 timing chain repair in the not too distant future (with 140k on the clock), I had no choice but to trade it off. The cost of these two known repairs would be 60% of the value of the vehicle. I hated to see it go as I really liked it, but ended up with a new GLE at 2/3 the cost of a new Full Size. The price of a new RR is one thing, but the cost of repairs is a real deterrent.
Hope things work out better for you and it turns out to be just an amp.
Given that I was likely to have a $7000 timing chain repair in the not too distant future (with 140k on the clock), I had no choice but to trade it off. The cost of these two known repairs would be 60% of the value of the vehicle. I hated to see it go as I really liked it, but ended up with a new GLE at 2/3 the cost of a new Full Size. The price of a new RR is one thing, but the cost of repairs is a real deterrent.
Hope things work out better for you and it turns out to be just an amp.
Throwing parts at the problem is expensive, even when they are used parts. Bette than $2900 and hopefully you can return it or resale. The first thing to do with the MOST bypass loop is connect at the sirius/Dab unit near the spare tire.
Hopefully you get lucky as that is a $100, 10 minute fix. Other than that you have to dig into the dash to test the other items.
Hopefully you get lucky as that is a $100, 10 minute fix. Other than that you have to dig into the dash to test the other items.
Returned the part today for refund. The fix will have to wait until I get back from hurricane duty unfortunately but I will update when I return.
I’m back home and have the bypass loop now.Throwing parts at the problem is expensive, even when they are used parts. Bette than $2900 and hopefully you can return it or resale. The first thing to do with the MOST bypass loop is connect at the sirius/Dab unit near the spare tire.
Hopefully you get lucky as that is a $100, 10 minute fix. Other than that you have to dig into the dash to test the other items.
When I connected the bypass loop to the:
- Sirius/dab unit, nothing changed and I also noticed the fiber optic light wasn’t illuminated.
- Amp, the navigation accurately spotted my geo location. Also, with the bypass loop still connected to the amp, I went back to the sdars Sirius unit and noticed the fiber optic line was illuminating now.
So, I’m wondering if the used replacement amp was bad, too? (I have returned it already).
Okay, it’s fixed. The diagnosis said the audio amp caused the fuse link to blow. They recommended a new amp and a replacement fuse link ($2800 all in). So, I bought a used amp for $349 and an $8 fuse link.
I replaced the audio amplifier but not the 40 amp fuse link because none of the three fuses were blown (visual and multimeter checked). Still didn’t work. So, I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced the fuse link (free of charge). Now it’s working. Hmm, I checked those fuses 3 times and none of them were blown.
Long way to the finish line but I’m out $349 instead of $2800.
I replaced the audio amplifier but not the 40 amp fuse link because none of the three fuses were blown (visual and multimeter checked). Still didn’t work. So, I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced the fuse link (free of charge). Now it’s working. Hmm, I checked those fuses 3 times and none of them were blown.
Long way to the finish line but I’m out $349 instead of $2800.
A little hassle to save $2500! Absolutely! Glad its fixed and you have your tunes back!Okay, it’s fixed. The diagnosis said the audio amp caused the fuse link to blow. They recommended a new amp and a replacement fuse link ($2800 all in). So, I bought a used amp for $349 and an $8 fuse link.
I replaced the audio amplifier but not the 40 amp fuse link because none of the three fuses were blown (visual and multimeter checked). Still didn’t work. So, I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced the fuse link (free of charge). Now it’s working. Hmm, I checked those fuses 3 times and none of them were blown.
Long way to the finish line but I’m out $349 instead of $2800.
Hi, I am going through the exact same problem with my RRS15 HSE. I have done all the fixes as posted, the only issue i'm having is locating the fuse link? I have checked visually all the fuses related to the audio/info system in the rear right of the trunk/boot and see no issues. I am unable to locate a 40amp fuse though that is associated with the audio system. I see a diagram online that puts it in spot F50 F51 but shows only a 15amp fuse in that spot with F50 empty/NA. The manual points to the smaller lower fuse box for audio/nav fuses etc. Its driving me crazy. Does anyone have diagram or picture of where the fuse link is located?
Edit: I changed all the fuse links one by one and found the bad one. I got the system up and running one issue now is no sound at all. Does anyone know what could be causing that? HELP?
Edit: I changed all the fuse links one by one and found the bad one. I got the system up and running one issue now is no sound at all. Does anyone know what could be causing that? HELP?
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
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