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I’d say definitely yes to a sub. Adding the kids in is also necessary as screen feedback and parking sensors are routed to different speakers than in the 8 speaker configuration. I made my own harnesses. The hard part to find was the blue speaker connector at the amp.My car had nothing prewired so I had to start from scratch. The only way to find out if you have the wiring is to have a look.

The easy way to tell if you have mid / sub wires already installed is to remove the passenger tread plate and lift the carpet where it rises to the front lady seat bolt mount. There is a void where the amp sits and you can peer in with a torch and see the connectors to the amp. You should be able to see if the blue connector is there, if it is then the sub and Mids will most likely be prewired. Here’s a pic of what mine looked like before the upgrade, you can see the socket between the green and grey connectors isn’t present, this is the blue connector. View attachment 288952
I’d say definitely yes to a sub. Adding the kids in is also necessary as screen feedback and parking sensors are routed to different speakers than in the 8 speaker configuration. I made my own harnesses. The hard part to find was the blue speaker connector at the amp.My car had nothing prewired so I had to start from scratch. The only way to find out if you have the wiring is to have a look.

The easy way to tell if you have mid / sub wires already installed is to remove the passenger tread plate and lift the carpet where it rises to the front lady seat bolt mount. There is a void where the amp sits and you can peer in with a torch and see the connectors to the amp. You should be able to see if the blue connector is there, if it is then the sub and Mids will most likely be prewired. Here’s a pic of what mine looked like before the upgrade, you can see the socket between the green and grey connectors isn’t present, this is the blue connector. View attachment 288952
Hi Again,

So I have just had the upgraded amp installed from the base 8 to the Premium 16 from a local car audio dealer - I also had an Alpine Bass Box (SWE - 835) fitted in the trunk/boot which is powered from the Prem 16 amp and the whole system sounds very good. The Problem is now the phone/bluetooth sound has gone as well as the system clicks. Having spoken to the car audio shop again...they are saying that for me to install Mids it would be a massive job that would take maybe 4-6 hours as it would involve removing the doors etc. Apparently there is no wiring at my amp for the mids hence all the work to be done. They saying this may cost around a £1000 for parts and labour.

Im seriously considering just reverting back to the base amp and just settling for poor audio instead of diving deeper and deeper. Its such a pity that everything is fine apart from the phone/system sounds missing. What i dont understand is that if they were working before, why dont they work now ? and cant the audio be redirected to where it came from originally. this is depressing me thinking about it!

any help anyone??
 

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2016 Range Rover Sport
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Hi,

I had the same problem in that I had no wiring to the A pillar connectors from the amp and no wiring from the door connector to the mids so I also had no Bluetooth audio or screen feedback.

There is a workaround though that I figured out and now mine works great. Basically install the mids in the doors and wire them in parallel to the tweeters. Then at the amp connect the mid output for each channel with the tweeter output for each channel in parallel. So you end up with both mid and high frequencies from the amp running along your existing tweeter wires to the mids / tweeters in each door. My tweeters already had crude high pass filters by way of capacitors so they don’t distort from the mid-range inputs to them. Also the mids are small enough to handle the high end frequencies without distortion too. You could install a bandpass filter for the mids if you wanted clear separation but I don’t think it’s necessary and my system all functions perfectly and sounds amazing.

And the reason why the Bluetooth and and screen feedback are no longer present is because they are routed through the mids on the Prem16 amp instead of the bass / tweeter channels in the Mid8 setup.

My approach takes less than an hour to do and requires no extra hardware other than the mids.
 

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Hi,

I had the same problem in that I had no wiring to the A pillar connectors from the amp and no wiring from the door connector to the mids so I also had no Bluetooth audio or screen feedback.

There is a workaround though that I figured out and now mine works great. Basically install the mids in the doors and wire them in parallel to the tweeters. Then at the amp connect the mid output for each channel with the tweeter output for each channel in parallel. So you end up with both mid and high frequencies from the amp running along your existing tweeter wires to the mids / tweeters in each door. My tweeters already had crude high pass filters by way of capacitors so they don’t distort from the mid-range inputs to them. Also the mids are small enough to handle the high end frequencies without distortion too. You could install a bandpass filter for the mids if you wanted clear separation but I don’t think it’s necessary and my system all functions perfectly and sounds amazing.

And the reason why the Bluetooth and and screen feedback are no longer present is because they are routed through the mids on the Prem16 amp instead of the bass / tweeter channels in the Mid8 setup.

My approach takes less than an hour to do and requires no extra hardware other than the mids.
Thanks for the reply mate.

My bluetooth (as in the streaming music part works fine) its the phonecall audio is non-existent along with
the system sounds.

In your above answer does that solve the problem ?
 

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2016 Range Rover Sport
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No worries. Yes had the same. BT audio worked but no phone. Made the mod above and everything works now. Did you install the centre dash speaker too? Worth doing and a pretty easy job. I’m also not 100% as to whether any of that audio is routed to the dash speaker too.
 

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Sorted! ....No i haven't installed a centre dash speaker - i dont know if there is any wires that go from the amp to that location. Im a total novice at doing any technical work in this field so i will show the car audio shop your reply and hopefully they can do it.

What kind of speaker is the centre dash one ?

Im based in Derby by the way.
 

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👍🏻👍🏻

Dash speaker is just a mid and a tweeter same as the doors. I can’t remember if these are parallel wired or not. But either way it’s a pretty easy install running the wires from the dash cavity to the amp. Worth getting it installed and cabled while you have the passenger seat out again to do the door mid wiring bridge at the amp.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Hi,

I had the same problem in that I had no wiring to the A pillar connectors from the amp and no wiring from the door connector to the mids so I also had no Bluetooth audio or screen feedback.

There is a workaround though that I figured out and now mine works great. Basically install the mids in the doors and wire them in parallel to the tweeters. Then at the amp connect the mid output for each channel with the tweeter output for each channel in parallel. So you end up with both mid and high frequencies from the amp running along your existing tweeter wires to the mids / tweeters in each door. My tweeters already had crude high pass filters by way of capacitors so they don’t distort from the mid-range inputs to them. Also the mids are small enough to handle the high end frequencies without distortion too. You could install a bandpass filter for the mids if you wanted clear separation but I don’t think it’s necessary and my system all functions perfectly and sounds amazing.

And the reason why the Bluetooth and and screen feedback are no longer present is because they are routed through the mids on the Prem16 amp instead of the bass / tweeter channels in the Mid8 setup.

My approach takes less than an hour to do and requires no extra hardware other than the mids.
Do you have pics of this mod sir? I would love to complete my mid setup this way to regain Bluetooth audio.
TIA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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👍🏻👍🏻

So do I have to run cables from the Amp to the doors to connect the mids via the tweeter ? or do I use the existing wires. Im gonna have to relay this info on thats all.


Dash speaker is just a mid and a tweeter same as the doors. I can’t remember if these are parallel wired or not. But either way it’s a pretty easy install running the wires from the dash cavity to the amp. Worth getting it installed and cabled while you have the passenger seat out again to do the door mid wiring bridge at the amp.
 

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2016 Range Rover Sport
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Hi,

Yes I did the full install myself and made my own harnesses from cable reels as I retrofitted TV and Rear Seat Entertainment at the same time.

Sadly I don’t have any photos of the Mid/Tweeter mid. I’ll try and sketch something up though when I get a moment.
 

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Thx a million bud! Prob above my skill set, but never been scared to try.

Cheers


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Hi,

Yes I did the full install myself and made my own harnesses from cable reels as I retrofitted TV and Rear Seat Entertainment at the same time.

Sadly I don’t have any photos of the Mid/Tweeter mid. I’ll try and sketch something up though when I get a moment.
Thank you SO MUCH for your help !
 

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DASH SPEAKER
Tweeter POS > Amp 8 Wt
Tweeter NEG > Amp 16 Gn/Bn

My blue connector didn’t have the pins for the tweeter so I just used the Mid channel only connected to the amp as per below:

Mid POS > Amp 7 Actually Gn in my car but Wt/Bu on the wiring diagram
Mid NEG > Amp 15 Actually Gy/Vt in my car but Gn/Og in the airing diagram. If your wire colour differ then concentrate on the PIN numbers instead as they are the same regardless of wire colours.

Then in the dash I installed a tweeter and a mid and wired them in parallel connected to the mid output of the amp (pins 7 and 15 of the blue connector).

FRONT DOOR MIDS Blue connector
Left POS > Amp 1 Gn/Bu
Left NEG > Amp 9 Gy/Bu
Right POS > Amp 2 Vt/Gy
Right NEG > Amp 10 Ye/Gy

FRONT DOOR HIGH Grey connector
Left POS > Amp 3 Vt/Og
Left NEG > Amp 11 Ye/Og
Right POS > Amp 1 Gn/Og
Right NEG > Amp 9 Gy/Og

So at the amp I simply wired these in parallel per channel as below:


Left POS > connect pin 1 Gn/Bu on the blue connector to pin 3 Vt/Og on the gre connector
Left NEG > connect pin 9 Gy/Bu on the blue connector to pin 11 Ye/Og on the grey connector
Right POS > connect pin 2 Vt/Gy on the blue connector to pin 1 Vn/Og on the grey connector
Right NEG > connect pin 10 Ye/Gy on the blue connector to pin 9 Gy/Og on the grey connector

DOOR WIRING

So it’s the same procedure for both front doors. Remove the door card, screw mid speaker in place. Solder wires to the tweeter wires (red +, blue -) and then attach those wires to the mid ensuring the correct polarity. The mids actually have the polarity marked on the connector sockets. I had two spare plugs from a donor harness so wires these in parallel to the tweeter wires meaning that if the door card needed removing in the future then the mid could simply be unplugged.

That’s pretty much it. Not rocket science. Just making use of the existing tweeter wires through the A pillar connectors to each door assembly.
 

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As an FYI, a purist might want to add a summing amplifier where the mid out meets the high out at the amp in order to protect the output driver stages of the amp. But realistically a summing amp needs to be placed before the final driver stage due to power / load. The mod isn’t perfect and I’m banking on the internal clipping / protection circuitry of the amp (because it’s a modern amp design and will undoubtably have built in overload protection) to protect from any issues. Also, if the output stages didn’t work together in some sort of harmony then you’d hear it in distortion before any amp issues. My experience is that it work with a very clean output and the amp seems stable.
 

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Great post, I might just add my contribution, as I haven't seen this info being cleared out yet. There are just about three premium 16 amps on wich you can activate the meridian settings with the diagnostic tool. You can find the codes listed in the picture below. That is why not everyone is able to activate them meridian tweaks
Screenshot_20201028_193609.jpg
 

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I would like to say A BIG THANK YOU to @abeachsoul who ohelped me out big time with my issue.

He installed my sub, updated the CCF settings and opened up the meridian menus, installed the mids and soldered the mid wires at the amp and in the front doors....all in the pouring rain. The guy is an Angel.

289974
289972
289973
 

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That is great! Out of curiosity, Wich tool did you use to edit ccf?
We used the GAP Diagnostic IIDTool pal

 
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