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Hiyabrad. Can you tell me all the cables and connectors that you brought in addition to the amp and speakers?
Audio shop require connectors for the mids in the rear doors and the centre dash tweeter/mids. Also the connector and cables for the subwoofer LR035187 and the all the amp looms/etc. Not sure if any of the base cables are interchangeable on the signature stuff?
 

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I am upgrading from the terrible base system (8 speakers) to the mid-level Meridian (19 speakers) system.

The base 8-speaker system has a woofer and tweeter in each of the four doors and no sub-woofer.

For the 19-speaker system, there are three speakers (tweeter, mid-range and bass) in each of the four doors plus one mid-range and one tweeter in the dash and one mid-range and one tweeter on the left and right sides of the rear cargo shelf. Plus a sub-woofer under the front passenger seat.

For the speakers and sub, I bought the factory high end Meridian Signature stuff. Interesting to note the mid-range and bass speakers have a plastic female connector mounted onto their frame. The tweeters however have wires extending away from the tweeter (about 6 inches) to their plastic female connector.

For the amp, I bought a used one one on eBay - BJ32-19C164-BF

After doing a lot of research into how the factory wiring is set up in the car, I spent 3 hours yesterday installing the speakers in all 4 doors.

What I found is that in the front doors, both driver and passenger, the connector for the mid-range (which is not used in the 8-speaker system) is already there. So it's plug and play in the front doors.

In the rear doors the connector for the mid-range speaker is not there. However, if you look at the wiring diagram for this system, for the rear doors only the tweeter and mid-range are spliced together. They do not have individual outputs on the amp. So for the rear doors I connected the existing factory wire harness male tweeter connector to the new mid-range speaker female connector. I then cut off the new tweeter's female connector (remember it's wired to the tweeter about 6" away) off, stripped the wires and soldered the new tweeter wires direct to the terminals on the new mid-range speaker. If you wire it the other way (new tweeter to factory wire harness male tweeter connector) there is nothing to connect the tweeter and mid-range together so you would need to wire in a connection between the two. No big deal but easier to just use the wires from the tweeter to accomplish.

The next day (today) I removed the luggage shelf to see if there was a prewired connector........and there is not. I am going to do a bit more research into the closet connector that carries the wires and then either trace from there or run new wires to either that connector to direct to the amp. Interesting note, as with the rear car door tweeter and mid-range, the rear luggage shelf tweeter and mid-range are spliced together and run from one channel on the amp (in this case the left side). Obviously the same goes for the opposite side of the rear luggage shelf (the right side)......AND the same goes for the front dash tweeter and mid-range. Only the front doors in the car have separate channels (crossovers) for each speaker (tweeter, mid-range and bass) from the amp.

I then decided to swap out the amp under the driver's seat however, I did not get very far. The bolts that secure the seats have a reverse star head which requires a special socket which I do not have. Going to have to find that one. Anyone know where I can buy this socket?

As for the front dash tweeter and mid-range, I did not yet try to install but now assume they will not be prewired and will need to find the closest connector to either trace from there, wire from there or direct to the amp.

As for the subwoofer, since I can't get the seats out at this point I don't know if it's prewired or not.

More to come.
Just an update.

I did try the metric socket with multi point contacts and it fit. However, I bought the correct Torx socket - Which is an E12 size. Works like a charm.

On Sunday I installed:

Subwoofer: Remove Passenger seat and surprise, the sub is pre-wired -- however the pre-wired connector does not fit with the connector that is installed on the sub. Instead I cut both connectors off and soldered the wires. The sub mounts under the passenger seat. There is a styrofoam insert taking up the space where the sub sits. Remove the foam and drop in the sub. The studs that the nuts screw down on to secure the sub are already there. I used two of the nuts from the amp to hold down the sub. Turned on the audio system and BOOM, the sub is thumping.

Amp: Remove driver's seat and then remove the base system amp. Drop in the upgrade amp and all systems go.

Center Dash Mid-Range and Tweeter: These are not pre-wired. Easy enough to get to the speaker location to install the speakers but I had a hard time getting to the nearest connector that carried the wires. Since the seats were out of the car I ran the speaker wires direct to the amp. Sounds easy enough. Take coat hanger and fish down from the speaker location to the bottom of the dash then pull wires through to the amp. Now I have to say it's been a LONG time since I have played around with this sort of project in a car. What I learned is new cars and not like old cars where you just reach up under the dash and the world is your oyster. This car is like Fort Knox under the dash. Everything has styrofoam, regular foam and hard plastic sealing off all areas. And it's not just under the dash......I tired coming down from the top and found the same thing......So I pulled out the entertainment/Nav/car settings screen and even then it was all sealed off. Finally broke down and drilled a hole from the area the speaker mounts to down to behind the entertainment/Nav/car settings screen and pulled the wires from there back to the amp. I did not install the mid-range and tweeter as it was getting dark so I will do that one night this week.

As noted above the sub-woofer started working immediately with the upgrade amp. The mid-ranges in the front doors are not working. While they were not working with the old amp I assumed they would start working once the upgrade amp was installed. Either A) the car needs to be programed to allow a signal to the mids, B) my assumption was incorrect that the connectors in the front doors were for the mids even though they are in the exact right location and fit, C) the front doors mid channel is fried. Will be interesting to see what happens after I connect the dash mid-range and tweeter to see if that works. I will wait until the car is reprogrammed for the upgraded sound system to see if that works. If not, I will wire trace the assumed "pre-wired" connectors and see if they terminate at the amp. If not, I will pick up the signal at the door connector.

Regarding the luggage shelf speakers, I bought from my dealer the correct luggage shelf interior pieces with the built in speaker grills and will install the mid-range and tweeter on each side and complete this installation two weekends from now. More to come.......
So doing this same upgrade on a 2016 RRS but when dropping sub in I could not find a unused connector so I assume mine is not pre-wired or am I missing the plug like it’s buried under stuff or harder to find?
 

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@hyabrad: I’m embarking on a similar upgrade and really appreciate the detail you’ve documented. Can you provide more detail on how you connected the dash mid/tweeter to the Amp? Did you splice in to the wiring harness at the amp? If so, how did you identify which wires are used for the 2 dash speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I ran direct from the speakers to the amp, an easy run under the carpet. I attached a close up of the wiring diagram from my Post #5. All you need to do is locate the correct location on the plug that connects to the amp, so locations 7 & 15 for the Mid and 8 & 16 for the tweet. Make sure you review the complete wiring diagrams which will act to verify you are in the right locations using the wire colors. Good Luck!

 

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Discussion Starter #65
@hyabrad: I’m embarking on a similar upgrade and really appreciate the detail you’ve documented. Can you provide more detail on how you connected the dash mid/tweeter to the Amp? Did you splice in to the wiring harness at the amp? If so, how did you identify which wires are used for the 2 dash speakers?
See my post above #65.
 

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Recently upgraded my 2016 RRS audio system. The factory system (not the meridian) is terrible.

New front speakers, audio amp with programmable EQ, and a 10” JL sealed low-profile sub. La Jolla Audio in San Diego did the install. Turned out great. Attached are some photos.

  • Focal Flax PS165 speakers
  • Audiocontrol D-6.1200 amp - drives all the
speakers and sub
- JL audio W4 10” sub in one of JLs prefabbed sealed boxes

The JL box and amp fit behind the rear interior panels for a clean install.

You connect the amp to a laptop and play a pink noise source and tune the system response to your vehicle using the software. There’s a remote know we installed in the forward storage area that lets you tweak the bass volume. Pretty cool system. They did a great job.







Joe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
I have found some interesting videos from PowerfulUK.com that pertain to upgrading from the Meridian system to the Premium Meridian System (NOTE: This is NOT the base system my car had installed in it. The videos show an upgrade which beings with the system that I upgraded to in my car, the "base" Meridian system.) The Amp video has a great spreadsheet breaking down on the amps used in all of the systems.

Having said that I think these videos are very helpful for anyone doing an upgrade.

AMP SPREADHSEET:



 

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I am upgrading from the terrible base system (8 speakers) to the mid-level Meridian (19 speakers) system.

The base 8-speaker system has a woofer and tweeter in each of the four doors and no sub-woofer.

For the 19-speaker system, there are three speakers (tweeter, mid-range and bass) in each of the four doors plus one mid-range and one tweeter in the dash and one mid-range and one tweeter on the left and right sides of the rear cargo shelf. Plus a sub-woofer under the front passenger seat.

For the speakers and sub, I bought the factory high end Meridian Signature stuff. Interesting to note the mid-range and bass speakers have a plastic female connector mounted onto their frame. The tweeters however have wires extending away from the tweeter (about 6 inches) to their plastic female connector.

For the amp, I bought a used one one on eBay - BJ32-19C164-BF

After doing a lot of research into how the factory wiring is set up in the car, I spent 3 hours yesterday installing the speakers in all 4 doors.

What I found is that in the front doors, both driver and passenger, the connector for the mid-range (which is not used in the 8-speaker system) is already there. So it's plug and play in the front doors.

In the rear doors the connector for the mid-range speaker is not there. However, if you look at the wiring diagram for this system, for the rear doors only the tweeter and mid-range are spliced together. They do not have individual outputs on the amp. So for the rear doors I connected the existing factory wire harness male tweeter connector to the new mid-range speaker female connector. I then cut off the new tweeter's female connector (remember it's wired to the tweeter about 6" away) off, stripped the wires and soldered the new tweeter wires direct to the terminals on the new mid-range speaker. If you wire it the other way (new tweeter to factory wire harness male tweeter connector) there is nothing to connect the tweeter and mid-range together so you would need to wire in a connection between the two. No big deal but easier to just use the wires from the tweeter to accomplish.

The next day (today) I removed the luggage shelf to see if there was a prewired connector........and there is not. I am going to do a bit more research into the closet connector that carries the wires and then either trace from there or run new wires to either that connector to direct to the amp. Interesting note, as with the rear car door tweeter and mid-range, the rear luggage shelf tweeter and mid-range are spliced together and run from one channel on the amp (in this case the left side). Obviously the same goes for the opposite side of the rear luggage shelf (the right side)......AND the same goes for the front dash tweeter and mid-range. Only the front doors in the car have separate channels (crossovers) for each speaker (tweeter, mid-range and bass) from the amp.

I then decided to swap out the amp under the driver's seat however, I did not get very far. The bolts that secure the seats have a reverse star head which requires a special socket which I do not have. Going to have to find that one. Anyone know where I can buy this socket?

As for the front dash tweeter and mid-range, I did not yet try to install but now assume they will not be prewired and will need to find the closest connector to either trace from there, wire from there or direct to the amp.

As for the subwoofer, since I can't get the seats out at this point I don't know if it's prewired or not.

More to come.
Amazing thread, thank you so much.
Sounds like I have the same base system as you. I’m after a bit better quality sound but not got the appetite to do the “full” upgrade.

if I upgrade the 4 main speakers in the doors to meridian I guess it’ll be slightly better?

if I upgrade the basic amp to a premium 12 or 16 will the power be increased to these speakers (therefore sounding better again) or is itmainly more channels? ie 12 or 16 channels instead of 8.

if I do upgrade the amp then I would need to fit mods in the front doors to get Bluetooth and “screen clicks” back?

Thanks for your time

Paul
 

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Ok guys. So just a few alternative part numbers for you.
So the Meridian signature premium range speakers go under two part codes, one for LR and one for Jag. Same products. I found out the expensive way after I spent £998 using LR part numbers. Could have got them cheaper. Anyway, here they are:

Tweeters: LR033292 or CPLA-18808-HA
Mid Range: LR033293 OR CPLA-18808-
Bass: LR047119 oR CPLA-18808-FB
Hi

could you confirm the mid part number for Jaguar part - last 2 letters seem to be missing

thanks

paul
 

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Thank you Hiyabrad for your extended post on the upgrade!

I too have the base audio system

Using your tutorial I have:
  • Upgraded the amp. Now the DX23-19C164-BA Premium 16. Plug and Play.
  • Installed a Focal Access 165AS3 160W 3 way compo speaker set in the front doors (including the new wiring and pins for the mid speaker!! Great pictures Hiyabad!)
The front doors are now internally insulated with sound and vibration stopping materials. Absolutely a usefull upgrade.
I am going to buy me a subwoofer to be installed under the passenger seat.

My problem is I can not get the Audio unit reprogrammed. Unlocking the Meridian software/menu is not possible my dealer told me. Today I went to an Indie who has all the official LandRover equipement but no success. He could enter the CCU and did not find a way to activate the Meridian settings. Both told me a software update won't work because the computer will recognize the car's VIN and so will allways install the basic Audio software.

Buying the GAP OBD II tool at 500€ is a bridge to far.

Can anyone advise me please? Who knows how to bypass this system?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Amazing thread, thank you so much.
Sounds like I have the same base system as you. I’m after a bit better quality sound but not got the appetite to do the “full” upgrade.

if I upgrade the 4 main speakers in the doors to meridian I guess it’ll be slightly better?

if I upgrade the basic amp to a premium 12 or 16 will the power be increased to these speakers (therefore sounding better again) or is itmainly more channels? ie 12 or 16 channels instead of 8.

if I do upgrade the amp then I would need to fit mods in the front doors to get Bluetooth and “screen clicks” back?

Thanks for your time

Paul
Hey Paul,
See answers in ALL CAPS below.

if I upgrade the 4 main speakers in the doors to meridian I guess it’ll be slightly better? I DID NOTICE A SMALL DIFFERENCE WHEN I DID THAT BUT NOT THE GAINS YOU WILL GET WITH THE UPGRADED AMP. YOU CAN ALWAYS GIVE THAT A TRY AS STEP ONE AND SEE IF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH IT.

if I upgrade the basic amp to a premium 12 or 16 will the power be increased to these speakers (therefore sounding better again) or is itmainly more channels? ie 12 or 16 channels instead of 8. YES, THE UPGRADED AMPS ALL HAVE MORE POWER AND WILL PUSH THAT POWER TO THE SPEAKERS BUT WITH OUT THE UPGRADED SPEAKERS ITS NOT WORTH IT IMHO. I THINK IT WILL SOUND THE SAME.

if I do upgrade the amp then I would need to fit mods in the front doors to get Bluetooth and “screen clicks” back? YES.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thank you Hiyabrad for your extended post on the upgrade!

I too have the base audio system

Using your tutorial I have:
  • Upgraded the amp. Now the DX23-19C164-BA Premium 16. Plug and Play.
  • Installed a Focal Access 165AS3 160W 3 way compo speaker set in the front doors (including the new wiring and pins for the mid speaker!! Great pictures Hiyabad!)
The front doors are now internally insulated with sound and vibration stopping materials. Absolutely a usefull upgrade.
I am going to buy me a subwoofer to be installed under the passenger seat.

My problem is I can not get the Audio unit reprogrammed. Unlocking the Meridian software/menu is not possible my dealer told me. Today I went to an Indie who has all the official LandRover equipement but no success. He could enter the CCU and did not find a way to activate the Meridian settings. Both told me a software update won't work because the computer will recognize the car's VIN and so will allways install the basic Audio software.

Buying the GAP OBD II tool at 500€ is a bridge to far.

Can anyone advise me please? Who knows how to bypass this system?
I am by no means an expert on this subject, however, I do not believe the dealer cannot unlock the Meridian settings for you.

My guess is:
1. They do not know how to do it (not surprised by this as why would they know how to do it)
2. They are not allowed to do it by the factory.
3. They do not want to do it as it could only lead to problems for them down the road

I do not know about other possible options to reprogram the audio settings. I do know the GAP tool works.
 

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Addition to the remarks made by Hiyabrad in Italic:

Hey Paul,
See answers in ALL CAPS below.

if I upgrade the 4 main speakers in the doors to meridian I guess it’ll be slightly better? I DID NOTICE A SMALL DIFFERENCE WHEN I DID THAT BUT NOT THE GAINS YOU WILL GET WITH THE UPGRADED AMP. YOU CAN ALWAYS GIVE THAT A TRY AS STEP ONE AND SEE IF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH IT.
The base amplifier is not strong enough for the upgrade speakers. The base speakers are 2 Ohm, most better speakers are 4 ohm so they need a more powerful amp. I noticed hardly any difference in changing only the speakers.

if I upgrade the basic amp to a premium 12 or 16 will the power be increased to these speakers (therefore sounding better again) or is itmainly more channels? ie 12 or 16 channels instead of 8. YES, THE UPGRADED AMPS ALL HAVE MORE POWER AND WILL PUSH THAT POWER TO THE SPEAKERS BUT WITH OUT THE UPGRADED SPEAKERS ITS NOT WORTH IT IMHO. I THINK IT WILL SOUND THE SAME.
With upgraded speakers AND upgraded amp the sound will be beter. But still not great because the head unit sents a restricted signal to the amp. Low frequency (bass) is filtered out to protect the base speakers.

if I do upgrade the amp then I would need to fit mods in the front doors to get Bluetooth and “screen clicks” back? YES.
 

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I am by no means an expert on this subject, however, I do not believe the dealer cannot unlock the Meridian settings for you.

My guess is:
1. They do not know how to do it (not surprised by this as why would they know how to do it)
2. They are not allowed to do it by the factory.
3. They do not want to do it as it could only lead to problems for them down the road

I do not know about other possible options to reprogram the audio settings. I do know the GAP tool works.
Hi Hiyabrad!

Thank you for your reply. The answer is 2.
They told me the factory does not allow it.

Is it a difficult procedure using the GAP tool?

Regards,
Paul

281945
 

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Hi Hiyabrad,
A really comprehensice and enjoyable read on your Audio system upgrade; thank you.
I have recently bought a late 2015 HSE sport with only the 8 speaker (disappointing for such a premium car) and now am considering doing the same. Before I start spending on replicating the system that you have I was wondering is it possible to install a subwoofer only and use the existing Amplifier to drive it? Regards
 

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Hi Hiyabrad,
A really comprehensice and enjoyable read on your Audio system upgrade; thank you.
I have recently bought a late 2015 HSE sport with only the 8 speaker (disappointing for such a premium car) and now am considering doing the same. Before I start spending on replicating the system that you have I was wondering is it possible to install a subwoofer only and use the existing Amplifier to drive it? Regards

 

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Discussion Starter #79
Hi Hiyabrad,
A really comprehensice and enjoyable read on your Audio system upgrade; thank you.
I have recently bought a late 2015 HSE sport with only the 8 speaker (disappointing for such a premium car) and now am considering doing the same. Before I start spending on replicating the system that you have I was wondering is it possible to install a subwoofer only and use the existing Amplifier to drive it? Regards
I believe the answer is no. The base amp does not accommodate a subwoofer.
 

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I believe the answer is no. The base amp does not accommodate a subwoofer.
I've got the standard Meridian system.

If I upgrade just the speakers, will this improve the sounds a lot? or just a little bit?

And besides the LR speakers, what other brand could I use that would fit in there without modifications?

thanks
 
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