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Hiyabrad. Can you tell me all the cables and connectors that you brought in addition to the amp and speakers?
Audio shop require connectors for the mids in the rear doors and the centre dash tweeter/mids. Also the connector and cables for the subwoofer LR035187 and the all the amp looms/etc. Not sure if any of the base cables are interchangeable on the signature stuff?

2 Posts
I am upgrading from the terrible base system (8 speakers) to the mid-level Meridian (19 speakers) system.

The base 8-speaker system has a woofer and tweeter in each of the four doors and no sub-woofer.

For the 19-speaker system, there are three speakers (tweeter, mid-range and bass) in each of the four doors plus one mid-range and one tweeter in the dash and one mid-range and one tweeter on the left and right sides of the rear cargo shelf. Plus a sub-woofer under the front passenger seat.

For the speakers and sub, I bought the factory high end Meridian Signature stuff. Interesting to note the mid-range and bass speakers have a plastic female connector mounted onto their frame. The tweeters however have wires extending away from the tweeter (about 6 inches) to their plastic female connector.

For the amp, I bought a used one one on eBay - BJ32-19C164-BF

After doing a lot of research into how the factory wiring is set up in the car, I spent 3 hours yesterday installing the speakers in all 4 doors.

What I found is that in the front doors, both driver and passenger, the connector for the mid-range (which is not used in the 8-speaker system) is already there. So it's plug and play in the front doors.

In the rear doors the connector for the mid-range speaker is not there. However, if you look at the wiring diagram for this system, for the rear doors only the tweeter and mid-range are spliced together. They do not have individual outputs on the amp. So for the rear doors I connected the existing factory wire harness male tweeter connector to the new mid-range speaker female connector. I then cut off the new tweeter's female connector (remember it's wired to the tweeter about 6" away) off, stripped the wires and soldered the new tweeter wires direct to the terminals on the new mid-range speaker. If you wire it the other way (new tweeter to factory wire harness male tweeter connector) there is nothing to connect the tweeter and mid-range together so you would need to wire in a connection between the two. No big deal but easier to just use the wires from the tweeter to accomplish.

The next day (today) I removed the luggage shelf to see if there was a prewired connector........and there is not. I am going to do a bit more research into the closet connector that carries the wires and then either trace from there or run new wires to either that connector to direct to the amp. Interesting note, as with the rear car door tweeter and mid-range, the rear luggage shelf tweeter and mid-range are spliced together and run from one channel on the amp (in this case the left side). Obviously the same goes for the opposite side of the rear luggage shelf (the right side)......AND the same goes for the front dash tweeter and mid-range. Only the front doors in the car have separate channels (crossovers) for each speaker (tweeter, mid-range and bass) from the amp.

I then decided to swap out the amp under the driver's seat however, I did not get very far. The bolts that secure the seats have a reverse star head which requires a special socket which I do not have. Going to have to find that one. Anyone know where I can buy this socket?

As for the front dash tweeter and mid-range, I did not yet try to install but now assume they will not be prewired and will need to find the closest connector to either trace from there, wire from there or direct to the amp.

As for the subwoofer, since I can't get the seats out at this point I don't know if it's prewired or not.

More to come.
Just an update.

I did try the metric socket with multi point contacts and it fit. However, I bought the correct Torx socket - Which is an E12 size. Works like a charm.

On Sunday I installed:

Subwoofer: Remove Passenger seat and surprise, the sub is pre-wired -- however the pre-wired connector does not fit with the connector that is installed on the sub. Instead I cut both connectors off and soldered the wires. The sub mounts under the passenger seat. There is a styrofoam insert taking up the space where the sub sits. Remove the foam and drop in the sub. The studs that the nuts screw down on to secure the sub are already there. I used two of the nuts from the amp to hold down the sub. Turned on the audio system and BOOM, the sub is thumping.

Amp: Remove driver's seat and then remove the base system amp. Drop in the upgrade amp and all systems go.

Center Dash Mid-Range and Tweeter: These are not pre-wired. Easy enough to get to the speaker location to install the speakers but I had a hard time getting to the nearest connector that carried the wires. Since the seats were out of the car I ran the speaker wires direct to the amp. Sounds easy enough. Take coat hanger and fish down from the speaker location to the bottom of the dash then pull wires through to the amp. Now I have to say it's been a LONG time since I have played around with this sort of project in a car. What I learned is new cars and not like old cars where you just reach up under the dash and the world is your oyster. This car is like Fort Knox under the dash. Everything has styrofoam, regular foam and hard plastic sealing off all areas. And it's not just under the dash......I tired coming down from the top and found the same thing......So I pulled out the entertainment/Nav/car settings screen and even then it was all sealed off. Finally broke down and drilled a hole from the area the speaker mounts to down to behind the entertainment/Nav/car settings screen and pulled the wires from there back to the amp. I did not install the mid-range and tweeter as it was getting dark so I will do that one night this week.

As noted above the sub-woofer started working immediately with the upgrade amp. The mid-ranges in the front doors are not working. While they were not working with the old amp I assumed they would start working once the upgrade amp was installed. Either A) the car needs to be programed to allow a signal to the mids, B) my assumption was incorrect that the connectors in the front doors were for the mids even though they are in the exact right location and fit, C) the front doors mid channel is fried. Will be interesting to see what happens after I connect the dash mid-range and tweeter to see if that works. I will wait until the car is reprogrammed for the upgraded sound system to see if that works. If not, I will wire trace the assumed "pre-wired" connectors and see if they terminate at the amp. If not, I will pick up the signal at the door connector.

Regarding the luggage shelf speakers, I bought from my dealer the correct luggage shelf interior pieces with the built in speaker grills and will install the mid-range and tweeter on each side and complete this installation two weekends from now. More to come.......
So doing this same upgrade on a 2016 RRS but when dropping sub in I could not find a unused connector so I assume mine is not pre-wired or am I missing the plug like it’s buried under stuff or harder to find?
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