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I'd be interested to know as well. My local car audio dealership (which is known for their quality of work), quoted me $8k!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Here are some pics for the center dash mid-range and tweeter. How the speaker wires get to the upper dash location on a direct run from the amp. Note each driver has it's own channel from the amp, hence the 4 wires. The mid-range mounts to the dash and the tweeter mounts to the dash grill.

Yes, you need to drill the hole to route the speaker wires from the top dash down to behind the head unit.











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Discussion Starter #23
Here are pics of the rear luggage shelf install. Note there is a factory pre-wired connector to the two rear locations. However, like the rear doors in the car both the tweeter and mid-range run on the same channel from the amp. So I made an easy custom connector to wire them together. I did purchase the Meridian speaker cover rear panels instead of cutting the ones that came with the car.







 

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Discussion Starter #24
Here are pics of the rear doors install. Remember the tweeter and mid-range are wired together (no separate channels from the amp) while the bass speaker does have it's own channel. The car comes with the tweeter installed in the door panel and the bass installed in the door. The mid-range will mount in the door panel after you remove the Mickey Mouse place holder. It's easy to take the car's tweeter prewired connector and attach it to the new midrange and then solder the new tweeter's wires to the mid-range connector.





 

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Discussion Starter #25
Okay, let's give the front door's door to body connector a go. It's not as hard as it looks.

Here is the door connector attached to the body. This is how it looks before the mod and after - the mod is undetectable.



Here is the face of the connector - Pins 3 and 18 carry the mid-range signal from the amp. This applies to both driver and passenger door.



This is what it looks like as soon as you remove the weatherproof cover:



Here are my yellow and white wires snaked thru from the door to the connector.



This is the U-shaped part that holds the two thin rectangular pin connector parts together. It slides right off (to the rear). Note I have already installed pins 3 and 18 (Red)



This is before you remove the U-shaped piece.



Here are the two pin connector rectangles separated (they slide apart once the U-shaped piece is removed - NOTE I have already installed pin #3 and #18 (red wire) and my white and yellow wires from door to connector.




Pin 3 slid in and locked in place

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Pin 18 slid in and locked in place



Here are the two red pin connector wires and my yellow and white wires ready to be soldered together and then pulled back into door to take up the slack.




T
his is the finished connector ready to be reinstalled.



This is the drivers door ready to have the yellow and white wires snaked from inside the door to the door connector.



This is the location where the rubber hose from the door connector connects to the door. There is plenty of room to snake your speaker wires thru. I used a piece of a metal clothing hanger.




Here is the door reassembled and the wires pulled thru where the factory wire harness grommet is located (lower right corner)



Here are the wires cleaned up. Note I cut off the pre-wired mid-range connector from the wire harness and installed it onto my new wires (hanging in the middle of the bass speaker). Plug and play connection to the new mid-range. Note since the mid-range is installed on the door panel you need to have a way to disconnect it if you ever need to remove the panel (or the dealer needs to). You could run long wires but that seemed silly.

 

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Discussion Starter #27
As I noted in the above install story I ordered the pins for 1 and 13 and only later after reviewing the wiring diagram those were incorrect and I needed 3 and 18. The good news is that pins 3 ands 18 used the same pin as #1. #13 is a much larger pin as you can see it below with the blue lead wire.







Also interesting to note that some of these parts are the same between Jaguar and Range Rover, however, the Jag part is cheaper!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Here is a comparison between the base systems bass door speaker and the top of the line Meridian bass door speaker.

Top is the Meridian and bottom is the base system.




 

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Congrats!

Did you ever consider just going aftermarket since you had to do a lot of install work anyways? Like maybe an aftermarket JL Audio system or something?
 

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I put in a JL W6V3 in one of my other vehicles and... wow. Would love to see one in a RRS although certainly wouldn't fit under the seat.

A TW5V2 might though:

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-tw5v2

The problem would be powering it appropriately and keeping the Meridian Surround Stage... I believe there is a mic somewhere in the RRS that listens to music being played and adjusts settings accordingly.

I've looked into this and have called some high end installers in CA. They say it can be done, but you can't use the Meridian Surround setting (which in my opinion is the best sounding).

That being said, I do find the 825 watt system very good and leaps and bounds above the standard LR version.
 

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I put in a JL W6V3 in one of my other vehicles and... wow. Would love to see one in a RRS although certainly wouldn't fit under the seat.

A TW5V2 might though:

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-tw5v2

The problem would be powering it appropriately and keeping the Meridian Surround Stage... I believe there is a mic somewhere in the RRS that listens to music being played and adjusts settings accordingly.

I've looked into this and have called some high end installers in CA. They say it can be done, but you can't use the Meridian Surround setting (which in my opinion is the best sounding).

That being said, I do find the 825 watt system very good and leaps and bounds above the standard LR version.

They have a box that takes out the EQ that the OEMs put in and then makes the signal flat again, then you can connect a laptop and tweak everything like EQ and time alignment. Here is an SVR install (the hardstyle music is pretty funny/annoying): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L63vB-5zWKA

Might be a wee bit overkill depending what someone wanted to accomplish.

I like the Meridian system as far as OEM available systems, but the RRSs are built so solid be great to hear a good aftermarket setup. I'm always just too chicken to do them since I switch cars a lot plus seems like aftermarket amps always cause some battery drain.
 

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My bluetooth mobile phone call sound is still bad and I still do not have the confirmation clicks from the display panel. But the bluetooth mobile phone music sound is awesome.
Quick question...did you ever resolve the Bluetooth mobile call quality issue you stated above?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Quick question...did you ever resolve the Bluetooth mobile call quality issue you stated above?

The answer is YES! The Bluetooth mobile calls and the confirmation clicks all run though the mid-range speakers in the front door.


Once the mid's were installed, all was great.
 

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After getting quotes locally for a bespoke system I have decided to attempt the upgrade route based on your excellent posts in this thread!

Would you have the part numbers for the Meridian speaker cover rear panels that you refer to earlier?

Many thanks.
 

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All my parts where purchased from roverjaguarparts.com

They are the Jag / Land Rover dealership in Ventura, CA - Their website had the best pricing I could find and were great to work with. The parts manager is Dan, and he was great! Their number is: 888-864-3187

Here is the rear deck speaker cover info you asked for - different part numbers for left and right side.

LR044794 Upper Quarter Trim $145.36

LR044802 Upper Quarter Trim $145.36
 

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hello all! After reading this thread, I decided to upgrade my base system in my 2014 HSE. Picked up the amp dropped it in this afternoon and wow with just the 825w amp
it already sounds much better, but now my Parking sensors have no sound? Im assuming thats because i need the mids in the front doors? not interested in splicing wires just wanted to upgrade the
existing speakers so i figured i would just get the better speakers and replace whats there.
 
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