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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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I would like to say A BIG THANK YOU to @abeachsoul who ohelped me out big time with my issue.

He installed my sub, updated the CCF settings and opened up the meridian menus, installed the mids and soldered the mid wires at the amp and in the front doors....all in the pouring rain. The guy is an Angel.

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I agree, @abeachsoul is the absolute master, a kind spirit and an angel. I wish he was closer to assist in person, but nevertheless went out of his way to help out many times!!

Thank you Sir!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi, I'm new in the forum. Based on HIyabrad great post, decided to upgrade my base 8 speakers to the Premium 19 Meridian. I have a RRS Supercharged 2017. Bought everything form Ebay, and had it done by the local dealer of Range Rover here in Uruguay (South America), so sorry for my spelling mistakes, my mother's toungue is spanish.
I had everything to be delivered to me form the States! And after they installed everything, the amplifier is not recognized by the sysytem!! The system in tne car changed in 2017, and know it's not possible to reprogram it!! Anyone that can help me with that? I'll really appreciate it.
 

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Hi, I'm new in the forum. Based on HIyabrad great post, decided to upgrade my base 8 speakers to the Premium 19 Meridian. I have a RRS Supercharged 2017. Bought everything form Ebay, and had it done by the local dealer of Range Rover here in Uruguay (South America), so sorry for my spelling mistakes, my mother's toungue is spanish.
I had everything to be delivered to me form the States! And after they installed everything, the amplifier is not recognized by the sysytem!! The system in tne car changed in 2017, and know it's not possible to reprogram it!! Anyone that can help me with that? I'll really appreciate it.
Hello. Have you got a picture of your amplifier label?
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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243 Posts
Firescrap, I have an Audison with a bad left front channel. Great amp, probably $200 to fix. If you want it, make an offer
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290862
 

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L494 2015
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Dear all: bumping this thread to first say thank you to @Hiyabrad for his detailed posts, explanations and step by step guides. Second to try to help out those who like me are jumping into this dance late in the game with a bit of my experience in a similar upgrade as the original post.

TL/DR: I am upgrading my 2015 RRS L494 from the base base system (380W, 8 speakers) to the Mid12 version using the bits and pieces from this thread and charting my own way. Learned some lessons on the way as well as some technical details that might help some other fellow RRS owner in the same route.

So I have the base 380W, 8 Speaker setup. It sounds horrible, very bad bass distortion coming from the FR and RL. I first purchased new speakers thinking replacing the speakers would do the trick. After looking at this threads and the basic information on the net, I opened up the doors and took out the speakers hoping for a way to fit the JBL 6.5" speakers I had purchased from Crutchfield (a pair of JBL 601CF). But just as Crutchfield had predicted/warned me, the speakers would not fit the RRS doors without some sort of "accommodation" (read: a way to adapt to the holes of the OEM speakers). After realizing that indeed this was not going to be a plug and play solution, I decided to return the JBLs and dig deeper into the OEM upgrade as described in detail by @Hiyabrad on this thread (thank you again!).

My project's main difference is that I am not interested in going "Full Meridian" on this upgrade. I really just want decent sound commensurate to the RRS. So based on the information here and the specs as posted by PowerFulUK I settled on the Mid12 setup. (12 speakers, 4 Bass, 4 tweeters, 4 Mids + Sub).

Purchased a Mid12 Amp off of Ebay (BJ32-19C164-AG) $129
Purchased a Sub on Ebay as well (CPLA-111A30-EA) $ 299
Purchased 4 Mid range speakers LR025876 $58.73 ea
Purchased 4 Bass (woofer) speakers LR078623 $ 132.55 ea

Because I have the base base system, I assumed I would not have the wiring in place in order to drop the sub and new amp and plug and play. I certainly was expecting to follow @Hiyabrad 's process to pin the door harness connector and wire from there. So next purchases:

Wiring repair kit - 16AWG LR part num: 418430 (red terminated female wires): $ 22.55

Motorcraft WPT-959 (Engineering number: 3U2Z-14S411-BDAB) AKA "the blue connector" $40
This is the connector for the Amp that has the additional speakers other than the base 8 speakers (i.e.: door mids, cargo mids, dash mid + tweeter, sub, etc). RRS connector ref: C3ME22E

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The sub came with the pigtail harness, so I was able to work off of that, but for those looking for the harness connector, it is a Motorcraft WPT-688 (Engineering number: 3U2Z-14S411-ZEA)
The sub has the male pins, the vehicle harness has the female side (WPT-688), RRS connector ref: C3ME76

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Unfortunately, the "Blue Connector" (WPT-959) had pre-wired terminals that were too thin (prob 18 AWG or 20 AWG) so I embarked on removing those pins and replacing them with my own terminated 16AWG pins. So after a long wide search, located the pins as being Molex 33012-2001.

After having secured those, I proceeded to wire my own "blue connector" from scratch:

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At this point, I had wired all 4 wires for the sub. Also I had wired the Sub's pigtail so now had the beginning of my new DIY harness!
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So far so good. Next step was to wire the mid speakers (doors) but then I reached a conundrum. How to get to the door connector? I took apart the door A-pillar connector as in the original thread, and to my surprise found that the male pins on the connectors were there! So does this means that my car came with the Blue connector after all?

I borrowed a friend's flexible camera to take a peek under the driver's seat to investigate the amp and sure enough, the blue connector is there! In all its glory.

So the good news is that I will not need to continue building my DIY harness after all, since my car came with the blue connector. The better news is that now I have the half harness built and no use for it.

So if anyone wants it as maybe a foundation for your upgrade project and your car didn't bring it, shoot me a pm and you can have it for my cost + shipping. ($40 + shipping). I will include the WPT-959 with the 4 terminated wires for the sub, about 4' of 16AWG to the sub plug, the sub's plug (WPT-688) and the remainder terminals so that you can finish the blue plug.

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Next step is to get the speakers (this week it seems) then open everything up, replace the amp, put in the sub, replace the 4 speakers and install the mids.

For the mid's connector, I have not been able to identify what the vehicle harness has. So I purchased a door wire harness from ebay with the connectors and hopefully they will have some sort of reference or part number and I will be able to share it here as a follow-up. It is the same as the tweeter connector, one is black the other is gray. But that is all I know as of now.
 

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Update: So I installed the SubWoofer this Sunday.
It was a mission! The car indeed had the wiring harness and connector ready to go. But the fitting of the Sub in the space was not easy.
Steps to perform the install were:
Remove the seat bolts, disconnect the battery, remove seat, remove door sill plate, fold carpet, remove Styrofoam "stand-in" for the Sub. Then I discovered that the main wiring was sagging where one of the edges of the sub went. so in order to fit the Sub in the space I had to lift that entire wire bundle, then finagle the sub into position and then let the wires rest on top of the edge of the sub. But the bolts that hold the sub in place, which come from the floor of the cabin would not allow for the angle to insert the sub. I ended up twisting one of the bolts by trying to put it in an angle. After a lot of sweat and swearing, I ended up shearing off the one bolt that was not allowing the insert and finally it was done.

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Today I received the wiring harness I purchased on Ebay for the mid connectors. I took those out and set them up for my new wiring to the mids.

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And as promised, I was able to look up the part number for the harness connector for the tweeters/mids:

KinKong connector 90980-11717 2 ways female Center stop lamp connector CKK5026F-2.2-21

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The vehicle harness has the female side, the mid-range speaker and tweeters have the male side.
 

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Some more part links in case it may help other's projects.

Connector and terminals for tweeters/mids:


Toyota Part number 90980-11717

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I got mine at Suburbanautoparts.com or any Toyota parts dealer can find them.

Sumitomo TS/SL/DL 090 unsealed female Terminals:
Terminals for above connectors, $0.29 ea. (Each connector requires 2 terminals)
293088

Sumitomo TS/SL/DL 090 unsealed female Terminal
 

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Update: So I installed the SubWoofer this Sunday.
It was a mission! The car indeed had the wiring harness and connector ready to go. But the fitting of the Sub in the space was not easy.
Steps to perform the install were:
Remove the seat bolts, disconnect the battery, remove seat, remove door sill plate, fold carpet, remove Styrofoam "stand-in" for the Sub. Then I discovered that the main wiring was sagging where one of the edges of the sub went. so in order to fit the Sub in the space I had to lift that entire wire bundle, then finagle the sub into position and then let the wires rest on top of the edge of the sub. But the bolts that hold the sub in place, which come from the floor of the cabin would not allow for the angle to insert the sub. I ended up twisting one of the bolts by trying to put it in an angle. After a lot of sweat and swearing, I ended up shearing off the one bolt that was not allowing the insert and finally it was done.

View attachment 291724 View attachment 291725 View attachment 291727

Today I received the wiring harness I purchased on Ebay for the mid connectors. I took those out and set them up for my new wiring to the mids.

View attachment 291728

And as promised, I was able to look up the part number for the harness connector for the tweeters/mids:

KinKong connector 90980-11717 2 ways female Center stop lamp connector CKK5026F-2.2-21

View attachment 291729 View attachment 291730 View attachment 291731

The vehicle harness has the female side, the mid-range speaker and tweeters have the male side.
did you finish this install?
 

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Looking for a premium amp and upgraded speakers for a RRS 2016 looking to do this upgrade have searched eBay but not much luck at the moment if anyone has any advice

also does anyone know if I got a high 12 amp would that allow me to have a sub and better audio controls on the audio settings?

thanks joe
 

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RangeRover Sport 2020 P400 HSE
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Hi all,
new to the forum and read this thread with interest.
I am a tad confused. I purchsed a nearly new RRS P400 HSE which according to the brochure comes with the Landrover Enhanced Audio System. After a load of research I think this is the base 250W 8 speaker system. However, after rooting around in the boot ( trunk) of the vehicle, I have found a sub bolted to the rear frame with a 4 way connector attached. I checked the pins of the connector and they are not open circuit, so this makes me think they are attached to the amp at the other end. This being the case, can I switch the sub on...it currently doesnt do anything. ?

Anyone got any ideas ?

cheers
Guy
 

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2016 Range Rover Sport
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Hi Guy

Welcome to the forum!!

If you have a sub in the boot then I’d think it’s aftermarket. Sub should be under the right hand front seat. I recently helped another member ditch his boot sub for a factory install which was waaaaay better
 

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RangeRover Sport 2020 P400 HSE
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Hi Guy

Welcome to the forum!!

If you have a sub in the boot then I’d think it’s aftermarket. Sub should be under the right hand front seat. I recently helped another member ditch his boot sub for a factory install which was waaaaay better
Hi ,
dont think it is...the vehicle is stock , and its a RRS part . GK62-18808-AB
 
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